Front tow bar (not hooks)??
#1
Front tow bar (not hooks)??
Since the BL, my front toe hooks won't fit so I'm thinking of having something fabricated. Using the existing toe hook mounts, thought of a bar that would extend out infront of my valence. This bar would go from pass side to driver side (almost like a towel rack in your bathroom). Ideas? Pics? Links? Anyone?
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#16
in my opinion i dont really like the looks of a front hitch either.. but the bar idea sounds good to me..
if im getting towed out, i rather them pull from the back, but if i absolutely have to get towed from the front i will hook it on just about anything thats strong enough.. hell i've gotten pulled out in 2 feet of snow (up to the doors on a stock 93) by my foglight brackets without problems.. granted they are beefy brackets.
#20
It's mudranger96's truck, check his threads out for pictures.
One of my favorites.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...dranger96.html
One of my favorites.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...dranger96.html
#22
Zabeard had something similar to what you're discribing back when he was running a stock front bumper. Basically a piece of gradual bent tubing that was welded to that front crossmember. Looked like the truck had a tongue. lol. But it served it purpose: flag mount.
I don't have any pictures at this time, but maybe if you go through his twenty million page SAS thread, there may be pics of the tongue.
Me personally, I went hitch route because it's FAR stronger than that dinky crossmember that's up front there. Fab shop wouldn't charge much to cut up a hitch from a [insert here], couple chunks of angle iron, and 4 total welds. Don't have to go the hidden hitch route...I kinda regret it actually. Had I not gone that route, I would have had full control as to where the hitch is. I wish mine was about an inch lower. Because right now, to even have a grille/bumper gap, I had to trim my valence.
If you go hitch, you can keep a shackle insert(like what I've got) in like your toolbox or cab or....? Or just do the whole 'strap retained by hitch pin' trick so it's WAY out of the way of that valence. And if the hitch is welded to the frame in a certain way, the insert will stick out deep into the valence(towards the outside world) and will help keep anything away from hitting/grabbing onto the valence. Mines pretty sucked in(towards the radiator) and I don't wack the valence.
Just my thoughts. Take 'em or leave 'em.
FTW!
I don't have any pictures at this time, but maybe if you go through his twenty million page SAS thread, there may be pics of the tongue.
Me personally, I went hitch route because it's FAR stronger than that dinky crossmember that's up front there. Fab shop wouldn't charge much to cut up a hitch from a [insert here], couple chunks of angle iron, and 4 total welds. Don't have to go the hidden hitch route...I kinda regret it actually. Had I not gone that route, I would have had full control as to where the hitch is. I wish mine was about an inch lower. Because right now, to even have a grille/bumper gap, I had to trim my valence.
If you go hitch, you can keep a shackle insert(like what I've got) in like your toolbox or cab or....? Or just do the whole 'strap retained by hitch pin' trick so it's WAY out of the way of that valence. And if the hitch is welded to the frame in a certain way, the insert will stick out deep into the valence(towards the outside world) and will help keep anything away from hitting/grabbing onto the valence. Mines pretty sucked in(towards the radiator) and I don't wack the valence.
Just my thoughts. Take 'em or leave 'em.
FTW!
#24