I dont really know how to word this question, but...

How thick should the metal be for a clevise mount?

Does it need to be as thick as the space between the part of the clevise with the holes that the pin is inserted into?

Im making two clevise mounts, and the steel is about 1/2 inch thick smaller than the space between the holes.

I saw some clevises recently, and the steel fit perfectly between the space, with no room left.

 

i dont see why it would have to be as wide as th space betweent the two sides. you can google search for ones for sale on the internet to get an idea of the size other people make.

 

1/2" should be enough for a Ranger but 3/4" would be even better. Even 1"



GB :)

 

The steel is 3/4 thick, but when the clevises are mounted, they will have plenty of space to slide left and right.

All of the mounts that I see leave no space at all, thus leaving no play. I didnt know if I should get some thicker material.

 

I used 1/2" on my rear end, have not failed and I've beat on them, they're bolted on to the frame with 2 bolts, and they're the same bolts that hold my hitch on.

 

Well I picked up a 1 inch thick pate today. I was looking for a 1 1/4 thick plate that would leave no room for the d-ring to slide left and right, but no luck. I might keep looking.

My mount wont be bolted to the frame, but welded to the hitch.

 

i'd be more concerned about the weld. That 1/4 difference in width gives you 1/2inch more of weld, which you can make up with your 1inch plate by making it a 1/4in taller.

 

True. I just thought about something as well.

I can use the 1 inch plate (since I cant find 1 1/4" thick) and put small spacers where the d-ring mounts so it wont slide left and right.

 

taper the edges. that way you can weld it will several passes. all mine are 1" thick and are welded to .120 1020 DOM, ive never torn or stretched the DOM or broke the weld.

Ask some of the people I have pulled out.

 

So you say that the steel that your d-ring is hanging from is 1"?

I have beveled every edge on my bumper build. I might be over cautious, being I have never made something like this for towing/pulling.

 

I ground around 1/4" - 3/8" all the way around the mount, then welded it.

 

It might be the fact that I do industrial bridge girder welding. I work with forces that can move mountains. I guess thats why I keep thinking that the steel isnt thick enough to hold up to a beating.

I think the 1" will be fine though.

 

How did this turn out ?

 

Here is what my question involved. The plate only allows 1/8" of space on each side between the plate and the d-ring. The d-ring will only slide back and forth a tiny bit. So, no biggy.

 

I also must add.

Grev, you are very good with keeping up with people's threads and projects. This isnt the first thread of mine that got old, and you bumped it with a "how did this turn out"?

Nice job.

 

No problem.
When I did my first set of Shackle Mounts I had the problem of the shackles being too wide and they flopped around.
My next one (purchased) were ordered only after I measured my shackles and I allowed approximately ¼ extra spacing to allow for ⅛” on each side.
I like the tighter ones but there were a couple of times I twisted the shackle and had a b!tch of a time getting them off.

I like your fit if there is a vote going on.

The shackle with the slide in pin, is this purchased or something you devised ?

 

Any commercially made bumper with clevis mounts will use steal flat bar that is 3/4" thick. On most d-rings this is the perfect width, on others its not quite wide enough and the d-ring will rattle.

So, 3/4".....if you look at any you can buy pre-made thats how thick they are.

 

I actually purchased the slide pin separately to see if I would like it.

I was worried about the threaded pins loosening up and falling out. I still havnt decided which pins I am going to use.

I think it all turned out pretty good. Even if I wasnt happy with the width of the plate, I probably would just deal with it. These things were a pain in the butt to make by hand.

 

3/4" is how mide my first d-ring mounts were. D-rings that I bought had a 1 1/4" space between them, and to me that was too much space, because it would rattle and slide all around.

These mounts are 1" which I think turned out perfect.

 

Did you drill out the Shackle for the slide in pins ?

Too bad the original screw in pins weren’t a little longer, you could then drill and pin them and save buying new slide in pins, although the handle is nice.

Maybe a long bolt cut down and threaded if needed, then drill and cotter pin.
Just thinking out loud.

 

Nope, the slide pin is a hair smaller then the holes in the shackle, so they fit pretty good.

I would have loved to had a longer original threaded pin in order to drill a hole.

The bolt idea sounds pretty good actually. That makes me wonder how big a price difference there is between a grade 8 bolt large enough to fit and another slide pin.

 

Tractor supply for the shackle? I have the same one, and I think that is where I got it.

I will have to take a picture shackle adapter I made.

 

Yup, tractor supply. Thats where I got all of my grade 8 nuts and bolts from as well.

 

FastenAll is good for grade 8 or better bolts, not sure if NC has any.
Funny that there isn’t a longer screw pin for the shackles, I would think a secured pin would be a good thing or at least an option to have the longer bolt.

I am going to look around and see what is available around here, need to check into the WLL of bolts (Working Load Limit), might be a good idea to get my shackles setup that way… thks !