Seafoam ?
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Figured I'd copy and paste for the people that are too lazy to click the link.
SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT for Gas Engine Applications
100% Pure Petroleum
Use in All Engines in All Seasons
2 Cycle, 4 Cycle, and Diesels
Treats 3 Critical Areas: Gas Tank, Fuel Systems, and Crankcase
Cleans fuel injectors
Cleans carburetor jets
Cleans carbon
Stabilizes fuels
Upper cylinder lube
Removes moisture in fuel
De-icer
Frees sticky lifters
Frees sticky rings
Removes moisture in oil
Cleans P.C.V. systems
Cleans catalytic converter odors
Oxygen sensor safe
How Many Mechanics Use SEA FOAM
In Tune-Up of 4 Cycle Gasoline Carbureted or Fuel Injected Engines
Autos, Trucks, and Tractors
With engine warm, slowly pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint through carburetor or throttle body throat. (If vehicle is port injected slowly pour SEA FOAM through direct manifold vacuum line that will feed all cylinders, possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line.) This will pull SEA FOAM down on top of the pistons and to the back of the intake valves to dissolve carbon. Turn ignition off. Restart engine after 5 minutes. If severe carbon build up is apparent, use more Sea Foam as previously directed. Make sure exhaust is well ventilated when using Sea Foam in these various ways as fumes will be extreme for a short time.
Pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint into oil crank case to clean rings, lifters, dirty parts and remove moisture.
Pour 1/3 to 1 full pint into fuel tank to clean injectors, carburetor jets, fuel lines and remove moisture.
Immediate Results: Smoother idle, increased R.P.M.'s better throttle response and improved performance. See label on can for detailed results for use in each area.
FUEL TANK, CARBURETOR, INJECTION and OIL CRANKCASE.
For Peak Performance, Use SEA FOAM Every 2,000 to 5,000 Miles
A 100% pure petroleum product for use in all gasoline and diesel type engines, both 2 and 4 cycle. OXYGEN SENSOR SAFE.
Cleans dirty engine parts internally by removing harmful gums, varnish and carbon. WORKS AND PERFORMS INSTANTLY.
Removes moisture from oil crankcases and fuel tanks.
Stabilizes and conditions fuels. Use for engine storage.
Cure hesitations, stalls, pings and rough idle due to carbon buildup.
Helps pass emissions test. EPA Registered.
When Used Thru Injection or Carburetor
Cleans carbon build up
Cleans intake valves and pistons
Gives smoother idle
Cleans catalytic converter odors
Cures hesitations and pings
Restores power and pickup
With warm engine running, SLOWLY poor 1/2 pint through carburator, throttle body or direct manifold vacuum line that will feed ALL CYLINDERS. Possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line. Turn ignition off. Restart engine after 5 minutes. Be sure exhaust is well ventilated. Fumes will be extreme for a short period of time.
For use in injector cleaning machines, use 50% SEA FOAM and 50% fuel.
Fill diesel filters with SEA FOAM to clean injectors fast.
When Added to Crankcase (Oil)
Frees sticky lifters and rings
Increases R.P.M.'s vacuum and compression
Cleans dirty parts
Removes moisture
Cleans PCV valve systems
One pint treats 10 quarts of oil (avg. 1 1/2 ounce per quart).
When Added to Fuel Tank
Cleans fuel injectors and carburetor jets
Cleans carbon as you drive
Lubricates upper cylinders
De-ices and removes moisture
Diesel full conditioner and anti gel
Stabilizes fuel
One pint treats 8-25 gallons of fuel (average 1 ounce per gallon).
In Injector Cleaning Machines
Add a 50/50 blend of fuel and SEA FOAM into injector cleaning machine. Run directly through the fuel rails to clean injectors fast. Add SEA FOAM to your fuel tank to clean injectors as you drive.
SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT for Gas Engine Applications
100% Pure Petroleum
Use in All Engines in All Seasons
2 Cycle, 4 Cycle, and Diesels
Treats 3 Critical Areas: Gas Tank, Fuel Systems, and Crankcase
Cleans fuel injectors
Cleans carburetor jets
Cleans carbon
Stabilizes fuels
Upper cylinder lube
Removes moisture in fuel
De-icer
Frees sticky lifters
Frees sticky rings
Removes moisture in oil
Cleans P.C.V. systems
Cleans catalytic converter odors
Oxygen sensor safe
How Many Mechanics Use SEA FOAM
In Tune-Up of 4 Cycle Gasoline Carbureted or Fuel Injected Engines
Autos, Trucks, and Tractors
With engine warm, slowly pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint through carburetor or throttle body throat. (If vehicle is port injected slowly pour SEA FOAM through direct manifold vacuum line that will feed all cylinders, possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line.) This will pull SEA FOAM down on top of the pistons and to the back of the intake valves to dissolve carbon. Turn ignition off. Restart engine after 5 minutes. If severe carbon build up is apparent, use more Sea Foam as previously directed. Make sure exhaust is well ventilated when using Sea Foam in these various ways as fumes will be extreme for a short time.
Pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint into oil crank case to clean rings, lifters, dirty parts and remove moisture.
Pour 1/3 to 1 full pint into fuel tank to clean injectors, carburetor jets, fuel lines and remove moisture.
Immediate Results: Smoother idle, increased R.P.M.'s better throttle response and improved performance. See label on can for detailed results for use in each area.
FUEL TANK, CARBURETOR, INJECTION and OIL CRANKCASE.
For Peak Performance, Use SEA FOAM Every 2,000 to 5,000 Miles
A 100% pure petroleum product for use in all gasoline and diesel type engines, both 2 and 4 cycle. OXYGEN SENSOR SAFE.
Cleans dirty engine parts internally by removing harmful gums, varnish and carbon. WORKS AND PERFORMS INSTANTLY.
Removes moisture from oil crankcases and fuel tanks.
Stabilizes and conditions fuels. Use for engine storage.
Cure hesitations, stalls, pings and rough idle due to carbon buildup.
Helps pass emissions test. EPA Registered.
When Used Thru Injection or Carburetor
Cleans carbon build up
Cleans intake valves and pistons
Gives smoother idle
Cleans catalytic converter odors
Cures hesitations and pings
Restores power and pickup
With warm engine running, SLOWLY poor 1/2 pint through carburator, throttle body or direct manifold vacuum line that will feed ALL CYLINDERS. Possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line. Turn ignition off. Restart engine after 5 minutes. Be sure exhaust is well ventilated. Fumes will be extreme for a short period of time.
For use in injector cleaning machines, use 50% SEA FOAM and 50% fuel.
Fill diesel filters with SEA FOAM to clean injectors fast.
When Added to Crankcase (Oil)
Frees sticky lifters and rings
Increases R.P.M.'s vacuum and compression
Cleans dirty parts
Removes moisture
Cleans PCV valve systems
One pint treats 10 quarts of oil (avg. 1 1/2 ounce per quart).
When Added to Fuel Tank
Cleans fuel injectors and carburetor jets
Cleans carbon as you drive
Lubricates upper cylinders
De-ices and removes moisture
Diesel full conditioner and anti gel
Stabilizes fuel
One pint treats 8-25 gallons of fuel (average 1 ounce per gallon).
In Injector Cleaning Machines
Add a 50/50 blend of fuel and SEA FOAM into injector cleaning machine. Run directly through the fuel rails to clean injectors fast. Add SEA FOAM to your fuel tank to clean injectors as you drive.
#4
Unless your engine is really old, in which case the sludge is probably keeping the engine together.... I tried putting some kind of crankcase cleaning crap in my old '84 2.8L one time. It worked great... except it started burning oil like crazy and leaking from every oriface possible. This was why I had to run 20W-50 in that thing... 10W-30 would just fall out the bottom of the engine block or get pushed out the tailpipe.
#5
I had a 1974 Charger that drank Seafoam like crazy! Also, my old 1985 Jeep with 300,000 miles on it loved the stuff. Personally, for an older engine, I think it's great. I don't think I'd use it in a lower milage engine just because it doesn't need it. Of course, if I thought it did need it, I'd use that over many of the others.
I always bought mine at O'Riellys Auto Parts. That was in Tulsa, I dunno if you have them in Arkansas.
I always bought mine at O'Riellys Auto Parts. That was in Tulsa, I dunno if you have them in Arkansas.
#6
I had a pinging problem with my 2.5, and after a Seafoam treatment it became like a new engine! I've got a How-To posted over on RPS, if anyone wants to go "Quote" it and copy it here for me.
Anyway, here's a basic run-down of what I did.
Anyway, here's a basic run-down of what I did.
- Buy a can of SeaFoam at AutoZone or a similar auto parts store. It's usually mixed in with the carbeurator cleaners and other aerosol products, but look for an "old style" white can with red lettering.
- When you get home (with the motor still warm), open the hood and grab a helper. My wife was a big help in being my 3rd hand with this one.
- Find the brake booster. This should be self explanatory, right under the brake fluid cap.
- Ensure everything and everyone is away from the fan blades, then start the engine.
- Now, Un-plug the large (1/2" diameter) black rubber vacuum hose from the brake booster by squeezing the clip with a pair of pliars and pulling, then immediately cover the end of the vacuum hose with your thumb to prevent from stalling the engine.
- Have your helper hold the can for you with the lid off while you dip the end of the vacuum hose in the can briefly, then covering it with your thumb once the engine's RPM's drop.
- Give it as many "sips" this way as you can, and make the "sips" as large as possible, until 1/2 to 3/4's of the can is empty.
- When finished, remove your finger from the vacuum hose and let the engine stall, or plug it back into the brake booster and turn the key off.
- Let it sit for 10-15 minutes (recommended time), then prepare for a very smokey, putrid smelling ride. (I'd recommend doing this at night, or away from neighbor's at least, because of the amount of smoke initially)
Once all of the white billowing smoke is gone, you should start to notice the effects of the LACK of carbon on the valves and cylinders!
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Originally Posted by HRoc
Hmm I've heard alot of good things about Sea Foam and alot of bad things about it if you don't use it properly lol.
I'm tempted to try this on my V6, but it sounds nerve racking...l
I'm tempted to try this on my V6, but it sounds nerve racking...l
#10
I just bought a can tonight from AZ for about $7. I'm going to run a whole can through my gas tank and see how it works.
I'm pretty sure my truck doesn't need the injection service. It runs great and doesn't miss a beat and i did a water injection thing on it last year. That was before i discovered Seafoam. I'll report when my tank goes empty. -Mike-
I'm pretty sure my truck doesn't need the injection service. It runs great and doesn't miss a beat and i did a water injection thing on it last year. That was before i discovered Seafoam. I'll report when my tank goes empty. -Mike-
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Originally Posted by bwester04
so can you put like half in the brake booster vacuum line, then 1/4th in the crank, and 1/4th in the gas tank? I just dont want it to be smoking while im driving, thats why im wondering about putting it in the gas tank..
#14
Originally Posted by bwester04
so can you put like half in the brake booster vacuum line, then 1/4th in the crank, and 1/4th in the gas tank? I just dont want it to be smoking while im driving, thats why im wondering about putting it in the gas tank..
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Gas tank is fine. Running it through the brake booster vacuum line is also fine. You just don't want to put it in with your oil right now since you just got an oil change. Each area cleans something different. It'll only smoke if you do the vacuum line thing and that's only for about 10 minutes depending on how much carbon buildup you have. You could always take it behind an old closed down warehouse/store and do it there so there's no neighbors to annoy.
#22
Used it on my 88 B2 2.9L that had over 300,000 miles. Made it run like a champ. Improved my gas mileage and the engine sounded "healthy" afterward.
It will make a bigger impact the older your engine is. i think I am going to give it a go at my next oil change. I am at 81,000 miles on my Ranger
It will make a bigger impact the older your engine is. i think I am going to give it a go at my next oil change. I am at 81,000 miles on my Ranger
#24
Yeah I got some earlier and tried it, I had trouble because my truck kept dying after I would put the brake booster hose in the can.. had to restart the truck a couple times (took a few seconds for it to start up too..) I put a little less than half in the brake booster hose, then about a 1/4th or so in the gas tank. I figured it would stop smoking after a minute or two, but nooo it kept smoking, so I started driving down a straight-away and downshifted- a big POOF of smoke then it slowly went away as the RPMs got up there.. It smoothed out the engine, thats for sure, especially up in the RPM's, and NO PINGING! Oh and I recommend going down a vacant road, thats what I did lol or else you're gonna embarrass yourself with a smoking vehicle
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