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Dropping my fuel tank

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Old Sep 13, 2007
  #1  
jtfoxman's Avatar
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From: The Poconos
Dropping my fuel tank

A bit long and I seen a post like this on here before and I searched and I can't seem to find it but here goes anyway.

Whenever I fill my tank and I try to squeeze that extra gallon in there it starts leaking from the top of the tank somewhere, most likely the fuel filler neck connection to the tank, or is there somewhere else it could leak from like an overflow that would cause this, it happened the last 2 times I filled up.
The fuel runs down the side of the tank and drips off the skid plate leaving about a basketball size puddle then it stops and no more problems. I don't want to take the bed off since I have a liner and a tool box bolted to it and i'll most likely be doing it myself.

What all is involved in dropping the tank? Like what has to be disconnected and where would these connections be? I know I have to drop the cheap a$$ skid plate down and unbolt the straps and the filler neck from the bed but are there any electrical or hoses that need to be taken care before I drop it or can it just be dropped with everything still hooked up just so I can inspect the top of the tank.

I'm going to run it down to empty before I do it since it only leaks when I fill it up so emptying it will not be a problem.

Also I get about 14 mpg with mostly stop and go city driving. Is this about average for a 97 4.0? I just put a Diablo delta chip in it so this could affect it also since I had it turned on for the whole duration of my last tank. Not really a lead foot but I do kick it down on occassion. It's the chip where you can turn it on and use 91 octane or turn it off and use 89 octane.

Thanks everyone and sorry about the long post.
 

Last edited by jtfoxman; Sep 13, 2007 at 12:09 PM. Reason: spelling and add on's
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Old Sep 13, 2007
  #2  
lifted97ranger's Avatar
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From: Charlestown, IN
if you get 1 other person, you can remove the bed 100x easier than dropping the tank......you can have the bed off in about 20 minutes not trying...
 
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Old Sep 13, 2007
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jtfoxman's Avatar
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From: The Poconos
I'll be by myself so that's really out of the question.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2007
  #4  
lifted97ranger's Avatar
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From: Charlestown, IN
you are still going to need someone to help you get that tank down and up....you can't hold it, take the bolts out of the straps, and finagle the filler neck through the frame/bed....
 
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Old Sep 13, 2007
  #5  
KARPE's Avatar
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From: Valrico, Fl 33594
stop filling it up so much..... that's a one man job
 
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Old Sep 13, 2007
  #6  
jtfoxman's Avatar
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From: The Poconos
Originally Posted by KARPE
stop filling it up so much..... that's a one man job
I like that idea much better!

I think I could get the tank down and up with a jack. Pulling the bed is not on my list of options. If not I can get some help with it on a Sunday while watching some football in the garage. But no wires or hoses I need to disconnect, besides for the filler neck when I drop it.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2007
  #7  
Old Black Cat's Avatar
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From: Mission Hills, California
the bed is easier. 6 bed bolts. 3 small screws holding filler neck to bed, and one socket for the tail lights in the back between the bumper and bed.

i took the bed off and it was easy. i replaced my fuel pump because my sending unit was shot. and my filler neck was cracked too. yours is most def leaking at the hose clamp onto of the tank. the hose just rots away. if the truck was on a lift then dropping the tank is probably easier. but still not much length on the wires and hoses to lower the tank much before there tight.

some beer and football will help getting someone to give ya a little help
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007
  #8  
jtfoxman's Avatar
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From: The Poconos
Thanks for the replies guys. I think I'll still drop the tank but I may take out the liner and just see how bad the bolts are rusted on the bed.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007
  #9  
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From: Mission Hills, California
i belive there a T50 torx bit. i frogot what size i used. should be big enough to use a 1/2" drive ratchet, breaker bar, or an air impact. some wd40 help too. maybe try an soak them a day before and they shoudl come out semi easy.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007
  #11  
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From: The Poconos
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
one of the smartest things i have read in a while on here!
Thanks...... if it wasn't a sarcastic comment.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007
  #12  
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From: Powell River,BC, Canada
If you decide to lower the tank, you will be suprised how light it is when it is empty. If you can, loop a rope under each end to support it while you disconnect hoses and wiring.
...Terry
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007
  #13  
ranger1999 Bob's Avatar
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From: Brooklyn NY and Deposit NY
ive done the tank drop with help and with an extra hand its still not the easiest cause trying to hold it on the jack and line up the screws to the tank strap isnt fun or hooking up the lines etc.. the bed off is way easier.. no bear in mind thats doing it on older rangers and a couple of large trucks ive done over the years. everyone i know whos done one on a ranger thats newer like 98 and better tells me pulling the bed is the way to go .. if youre alone all ya need is some good rope to make an x between the stake holes and either a come along or a ratcheting truck strap and a good tree branch to lift the bed if youre going to do it in the driveway
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007
  #14  
5speedin2.3's Avatar
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From: Livonia, Mi
you do know that you only have to slide the bed backwards, you don't have to take it all the way off the truck...
 
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Old Sep 14, 2007
  #15  
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From: NC
if you pull the tank, you should drop the driveshaft too. it makes things much easier.... trust me. you will have wires, fuel lines, and the filler neck to deal with, along with one breather hose towards the back of the tank for the evap system. either way, pulling the bed or dropping the tank can be a one man job...
 
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Old Sep 17, 2007
  #16  
CadiLLacPimPin's Avatar
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From: Charlottesville, VA
I dropped the tank off mine on my own no trouble. It will be smart to have a jack handy though to hold it up once the straps are loose. You'll have a wiring harness for the fuel pump, two fuel hoses, and a plastic Evap hose near the back to disconnect.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2007
  #17  
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From: Austin, TX
i would say stop filling it up so much..

you can mess up some evap canister thats designed to catch fumes..



anddd i get/got 12 on my 4.0 OHV
 
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Old Sep 17, 2007
  #18  
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From: The Poconos
Thanks for all the ideas. I am going to leave it go for now and when I fill it up next I'll stop when the pump actually stops. If it still leaks then I'll take care of the problem.

I like the idea of just sliding the bed back enough to get at the tank. I might try it that way.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2007
  #19  
Earl43P's Avatar
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From: Elizabeth City, NC
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
if you get 1 other person, you can remove the bed 100x easier than dropping the tank......you can have the bed off in about 20 minutes not trying...




I took longer than that to take out TWO of the bed bolts when I repainted my trailer hitch (yes, the 2 last bedbolts have to come out to get the factory Class III hitch off). Granted, I wasn't using an air ratchet, just your average 1/2" breaker bar and a ratchet after they got easier. On the 4wd models, those bed bolts are very long and the threads underneath have been exposed and rusting. I soaked those threads a couple times in the days before, plus kept wetting them as I cranked them out (with PB Blaster).

I guarantee you aren't getting six bolts out of a 97 bed that's been anywhere it snows in 20 minutes. Did you say Poconos??? Mmm Hmm.

The first few turns took every bit of strength that I could muster on that breaker bar. It didn't get much easier. The whole time I was just waiting for that bolt to snap. I chased the nutplate with a tap and die'd the rust out of the bolt threads afterwards (metric too). They went back in a whole lot easier (with lubriplate) but it was still work. Lots and lots of ratcheting. Not enough ooomph available to use a speedhandle.


I agree it's still easier to pull the bed than than to drop the tank, but don't go into it expecting a cakewalk. I sure wouldn't put that old hardware back on either after seeing the two I had to do.




Your results may vary.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2007
  #20  
Victory's Avatar
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From: Pawcatuck, CT
I have read in many manuals NOT to over fill the tank. It may effect the fuel system.
So tell me, what do you get out of putting 54 cents more gas in? The chance to get gas to spill on the paint? The neck on the tank to leak gas?
If you fill it like you should, does it still leak gas?
If you over fill a motorcycle you end up with gas on the ground cause of the overfill hose, would keep over filling the tank?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2007
  #21  
jtfoxman's Avatar
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From: The Poconos
Originally Posted by Victory
I have read in many manuals NOT to over fill the tank. It may effect the fuel system.
So tell me, what do you get out of putting 54 cents more gas in? The chance to get gas to spill on the paint? The neck on the tank to leak gas?
If you fill it like you should, does it still leak gas?
If you over fill a motorcycle you end up with gas on the ground cause of the overfill hose, would keep over filling the tank?
I believe everyone does overfill there tank it just makes it easier to pay for, but I agree with most of your points. Overfilling a truck tank and a motorcycle tank is 2 different things. I have never spilled gas on my paint while overfilling. And as i said in my previous post next time i will not be overfilling it to see if it would leak or not.
 
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