Is there any play in the wheel bearings?
I mean, you could replace them, but why bother if there isn't any play? My ranger wheel bearings never had a problem, sold it at 145k miles. Ball joints and tie rod ends were a different story. My F150 had a bad wheel bearing at 50k miles, only 20k with 33s.
Moog parts, if not moog. make sure they're grease able easiest way to check for bearings. lift your front end up and spin your front tire, if you hear a noise, like metal sliding on metal, its time to replace the bearings. also, when its in the air, see how much play is in it when moving it back and forth grabbing it on the top and bottom and moving it towards the engine and back to you.
there's no play either way, but in about 2-3 months my living expenses are going to rise quite a bit, and i won't be able to leisurely drop a bunch of money on stuff like i do now till i get my next raise lol so trying to pretty much plan ahead.
Agreed, just get them now and save them for later. Are you doing this stuff yourself? If not it might be cheaper doing it when you're doing the rest as it'll be already apart and little to no extra labor. If you're doing it yourself do it when they're needed.
i say hold off unless you have play in them. My ball joints boots have been ripped since the day i bought the truck back in march of 09 . And with max t-bars they are not loose at all no play in them what so ever. And same goes for the wheel bearings if there is no play why replace? I was planning on doing my ball joints but why? i rather get my tires first and when ever i start getting play in them i'll replace them.
do the wheel bearing now... if you have it apart replacing BJs and other stuff just swap em out and you wont have to worry about it again... dont mix new and used parts when you can just have it all new now... they are cheap anyways...
Ty, I've recently replaced the wheel hub/bearings and just replaced the control arms/ball joints on my truck. I haven't replaced the lower ball joints, because there's no play in them - yet.
These are easy parts to install, and you don't need much experience to get to everything. It just takes some patience and a bit of pounding to break the parts free. In order to change out my control arms, I had to use a special tool to separate the steering knuckle from the ball joint. I think it might be called a ball joint separator or a pickle fork, but it's not expensive. Being that we live in different climates, you may not need one. It was 18 degrees outside when I did the work and the part was a bit rusted from mudding and many NJ winters.
I found that RockAuto Auto Parts has the best prices for these parts, plus if you search the web, you can always find a 5% off coupon for your order. I bought my wheel hubs from them for $110 a piece and the control arm/ball joint assemblies for $150 for the two.
Hope the info helps, good luck if you decide to do the work now.
2004 Ford Ranger Edge manual 4.0 4x4 with 3" Body lift, 33x12.5 BFG A/T KO's, on Eagle Alloy 057 rims, and alot of mods
2011 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 manual with no mods yet
2005 Ford F250 automatic 5.4 4x4 with no mods
Have the torsion bars been cranked? That is a sure way to get them to sag quicker. More preload means more stress on the torsion bar when the suspension does fully compress (it twists further). That causes more metal fatigue and they sag sooner.