I'm in the market for an ext cab ranger; but funds are tight!

I test drove an 02 Edge today. has some minor body damage that is messing up the tailgate hinge, so I think its only latching on the driver side.

It drove nice; interior is not total crap. Sounds good, no obvious problems; other than after a short test drive w/o issue, while ideling in the lot it studdered & almost stalled 1-2 times after sitting for like 3-4min.

It has some version of a V6 in it, (I forgot to ask which one), is one preferred over the other?

Anything else to check?

Asking is $3800, is that fair price? Seems most ext cabs from 99+ are at least $4-5k from my craigslist search anyway.

Thanks for any tips on what else to check

Bryan

 

Depends on mileage and options. Ive got power everything and the 3.0 with ext. cab mine blue books about $5800. The 4.0l has the most power but if reliability is what you want then the 3.0l is best being an edge its most likely 3.0. Id check the plugs and wires if they look old then thats probably the cause of the stumble. Also look for timing cover leaks if its a 3.0l and any squeaking like a bad pulley that squeaking is most likely camshaft synchronizer those are the 2 achilles heals on that motor. Not expensive to fix but good to know if theres a problem early. Im sure the 4.0 guys will chime in on the problems of that motor to look for. Also should be able to fix the body damage relatively cheap however you may be able to find one in your price range a little straighter. Good luck!

 

Thanks!

I forgot the mileage! 128K, 5speed manual. Didn't hear any obvious squeaks or squeals.
Any easy way to tell a 3.0 from a 4.0? I don't recall seeing a Flex Fuel badge. This is manual everything, but has cruise. Edmunds 'Good" has it at $2800, Kbb at $4000 (huge difference!) using the 4.0 (I'm assuming more expensive engine than a 3.0)

Not to concerned about the body damage as it will be a teen's first car, I expect to get more; just would like to fix the tailgate if easy/cheap.

http://images.craigslist.org/00s0s_c...4y_600x450.jpg

 

Yay!!!
I bought a 99 xlt 3.0 auto 4 door! White with step bed.

Its pretty, seems to drive nice.

Problem #1, they said they only have 1 hey, looks like a PATS key the same as my 00 Expedition. As far as I remember you need 2 to program any additional keys, is that still true?
No Key fob, did this model even offer keyless entry? If so any way to get new keys & fobs cheap?

Is the wheel bolt pattern the same as an 05 Sport Trac and/or an 08 Escape?

Will post pics in a bit.

What is the "lights" beside the headlights? I couldn't get either to turn on as park, head, or turn?

It has a flex fuel badge on the tailgate; assuming the tailgate belongs to this truck, what does that mean I can run? obviously 100% & E-10. E-85? ???

How hard is the spare winch to replace?

 

Probably is pats no cheap fix on the key I'm afraid i paid $100 for mine but before i did it i just used a cheapo spare from walmart it won't start it but will save your butt if you lock the keys in it just tell them you don't care about the chip and they will cut it. They did come with keyless and the pads are cheap on ebay and can be programmed with just one key if it has power locks I'm pretty sure it has keyless entry. For the lights probably blown bulbs or fuse. Also there is a guy on here with a whole spare tire cradle assembly for sale pretty cheap look in the for sale section. And flex fuel will run on E85 or E10 i personally quit running E85 because the gas mileage is terrible but it does eliminate pinging and felt a little peppier lol. the bolt patter is 114.5x5 not sure what the sport trac/escape use though.

 

Thanks. I'm sure it's PATS. looks like my 00 Expy key, blinking theft light. Ford Dealer quoted $65 + keys (can bring my own). Walmart says they can clone the single key for about the same price. So I plan on going to Ford that way any existing keys out there won't work if they re-write the memory (is my assumption)

The wheels I have (to use as a spare) are 16's, the truck has 15's on it. Might be the same pattern, but there's a huge size difference. Guess it's off to a junk yard for a spare, maybe a cradle/winch whatever it's called.

Where can I find a plastic plug type screw? One mudflap is missing one that goes into the body.

Put a fuse in the door locks, now they make noise; but are so week can barely see them move; guess new actuators are in order.

Wonder if a key fob can be 're-programmed'? I have one from a 05 sport track, can I program it? {yes it can! & done. motors are just to weak to lock/unlock!}

 

Plug type screws LMC truck is your best friend if you ordered one of everything in there catalog you could probably build a ranger in your driveway lol they have all the little odds and ends and for the spare i think you have to replace the whole assembly it is a bolt on but i don't think the winch part will separate from the rest of the cradle. Also i got my replacement lock actuators on Rockauto but I'm sure you could find them at a srap yard. Also the keys do not delete unless you ask them to delete the others the computer will hold up to 4 keys in memory i found out the hard way when they tried to install my remote start all key slots were occupied and i had to go have the one i lost deleted from memory. And for the spare itself might cost you $20 at the scrap yard they usually keep those laying around i picked up a chrome one when i had my old wheels so they all matched for about $20. Nice work so far love to see some pics!

Your lucky on the key thats the original pats system the keys are a good bit cheaper i got the newer system in mine so they were a bit more!

 

Thanks, what do I search for for a "plastic rivet"? I assume it one of those 'ribbed' plug type things you just push into the hole.

Defiantly got work to do on the dome light/door switch. Siliconed it (or Teflon, can't recall which can I picked up now) and it works most of the time; but doesn't always go off, hence why I'm sure they pulled the bulb out!

I'm sure I'll need to replace the switch, might as well do it & the lock actuators together. Then I'll figure out if the pass window switch or wiring is the problem on that side.

Had to spray lots of graphite & then Teflon into the lock cylinders just to get the key to rotate! Finding lots of little things, but (knock on wood) nothing major yet other than the missing spare & the spare winch has been cut. Guess when I go to the scrap yard I need a jack too, there's a scissor type in the bed; looking at the manual it's a bottle (I mean u use what u got in an emergency) but it doesn't fit the jack storage.

Maybe 'major', the last couple starts; the oil gauge stays pegged on L, after a mile to 1.5 it jumps back to the middle. No engine noises, oil looks right color & full, I assume it's a gauge/dash issue.

I do see inside the fuel door ethanol or unleaded fuel only, so I assume that's another sign its a FFV. The tailgate emblem (again is it the original gate?) the fuel door, & the Vin check all lead to it being a FFV. Not sure I'm going to go out of my way for e85 anyway. Wonder if e10 vs 100% effect this engine as much as it does my Escape? (10% difference or about 3-4mpgs)

At least now that a huge snow & ice storm is coming, I"ll have time to search the boards & net!

Sure miss the auto headlights my other 2 cars have! And the idiot chime doesn't ding. Not sure if it's a fuse, cut, or unplugged. but no chime if key is left in or lights on.


It does have a faint famous ford power steering growl, has anyone made a easy/cheap fix for this yet? Don't suppose I can dump Type F in there (From my 65 Falcon)? or tranny stop leak? (no leaks, just a little growl, can't hear it in the cabin yet)

Will get some pics up soon, it's COLD out now, & fixin' to snow! (yes after 20yrs in OK I finally talk oakie!)

 

Unless the seller/craislist pulls em, heres from their ad:

 

Great looking little truck! and yeah bottle jack id say junkyard would have one. Also the domne light switch is in the actuator itself its one whole piece so if its acting up thats probably why it won't go off. The oil gauge is just an idiot gauge as long as it sees like 8psi it sits dead center and doesn't move but hey if its a bad sending unit perfect time for the gauge mod you can get a sender that reads actual pressure and then the gauge will read true. And those spare carriers rust up and most people end up cutting them. But hey fix the little things my buddy scored a 5.4L f150 a while back for $1500 guy thought it was toast cause he tuned it up and didn't put a few bolts back in lol easier to come by the little stuff than that new car payment every month!

 

E10 is also the same you will notice a drop in mileage but thats all we have down here. But it has stainless fuel lines instead of rubber so it won't hurt it like the regular cars the alcohol in ethanol eats rubber lines!

 

Thanks! I keep wondering what is the mystery, why did I get a good deal on it?! At least on CL around here, $4k and under is junk, 80's early 90's models, look like trash, etc

I'm sure once I dig into it it'll need all new front suspension, wheel bearings, shocks, etc. Exhaust is pretty rusty looking; but not loud. I figure I'll go to some cheap illeagal shop and get new pipes & muffler & cut the cat out... not right away tho (No inspections or smog tests in this state)

I thought the power lock actuator was just that, and I see switch/butttons (like $8; but of course mine is $25+) seperatly. ???

Tell me more; or link me! What is a sending unit, and gauge mod? Looks like i'm gonna be tearing out the cluster to swap out all the backlights anyway.


I know the feeling, 1/2 the reason for buying another vehicle is my intake manifold on my Expy cracked & started leaking. Dealer quoter $1500! Ouch. Finally built up my confidence, you tubed it like 20 times, and dove in. $150 and 8hrs of work & I did it! So I was wanting a 'spare' vehicle; and the other half is I have a daughter turning 16 in 3months!


Shoot I think I could re-sell it as is for $5k right now! $6k if I get all the little things working! But I ain't! it's to cute!

 

Good deal as in it looks really good and you don't seem to have any real major problems with it! And the lock actuator is actually the lock mechanism and switch all in one on the end of the door there are three torx screws those hold it on if you saw a pic you'd see what i mean as the lock closes around the door pin it grounds the lock and turns the light off very basic design but kinda hard to explain without showing.
Ill try to find the link for the oil gauge mod on here for you it comes up if you search oil gauge mod you basically replace the sending unit at the block one bolt and its out i believe so not to hard then you just bypass the resistor on the cluster with a small piece of wire might take 30 mins to do. Rangers are good cars to learn on they are VERY forgiving to amateur mechanics you will love it!

 

I've replaced all the actuators in my Expy already, never got this weak. Honestly it was easier changing the intake on her than the actuators! faster; but a PITA!

I saw the video posted on here about how to do it, took longer explaining how to pull the door panel & the little 'tooth' latches that hold it in place, then the actual R&R, so this truck looks easer than my Expy.

But when searching this part show up as the doop open 'switch':


and this as the lock/unlock motor:



I asked in a new thread; but what's my 'payload' capacity? (in the bed)
WHat is my interchange models/years? (What years parts fit the same as the 99?)

 

They may not have combined them yet on that year my apologies mine looks like the lower picture and had two wires one for sensor one for lock mechanism but i can say the bottom one is for sure the actuator! Payload in the bed not exactly sure i have a trailer i pull when i haul anything big but as long as whatever you hauling puts its weight on the bed floor and not the sides should be anywhere between 1200-1600lbs its all based on trans and gearing configurations. It will tow quite a bit though i regularly pull a 1500lb trailer and have on occasion pulled a 2000lbs double axle with another 1-2000lbs on it so its a decently capable truck for its size. As for interchange 98-2000 i believe is that generation so for some parts you HAVE to stay in that range and others can be had from newer or older models just depends on what it is.