Here are the codes that came up;

Data trouble codes:

P0455- Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)
P0153- O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0420- Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0171- System too Lean (Bank 1)

Areas of emission test failure;

Test Parameter Result Add. info available
OBD Bulb Check N No
OBD Mil Y Yes


PLEASE HELP!!!!
I am from Michigan and am new to all of this "SMOG" stuff in Vegas, can anyone give me a detailed description of what any of this is...I know that I have replaced the O2 sensor on the passenger side next to the manifold, but have not replaced the other 2! This Ranger has 175,000 personally cared for miles on it and still does not even burn a drop of oil in 5000 miles....any help to pass this stupid test will be greatly appreciated...first baby is on the way and I have limited income to fix this farce!

Thanks in advance, Mike

 

CausesA code p0455 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:

A loose or improperly affixed gas cap
A non-conforming gas cap (i.e. not factory/original brand)
Other leak or damaged piece in EVAP system
Possible SolutionsWith a p0455, the most common repair is to:

Remove and reinstall the gas cap, clear the codes, and drive for a day and see if the codes come back.
Otherwise, replace the gas cap, and/or
Inspect the EVAP system for cuts/holes in tubes/hoses (you may hear a vacuum noise or smell fuel), repair if necessary

A code P0153 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

The oxygen sensor is faulty
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed
There is an exhaust leak
Possible SolutionsThe simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.

If the code comes back, the problem is more than likely the front passenger's side oxygen sensor. You will likely wind up replacing it but you should also consider these possible solutions:

Check and fix any exhaust leaks
Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
Check for inlet air leaks
Check the MAF sensor for proper operation

A code P0420 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for
An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly
The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly
Damaged exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / exhaust pipe
Retarded spark timing
Possible SolutionsThe simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.

Next step is to measure the voltage at the oxygen sensor on Bank 1 (the rear sensor, or the sensor after the converter). The voltage should be low and steady (~200mV, depends on the vehicle). If the voltage varies (e.g. 100mV to 600mV) then it's time to replace the catalytic converter. In fact, it would be a good idea to test each oxygen O2 sensor while you're at it.

One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into.

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters (K&N, etc.) can cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.
Possible SolutionsPossible solutions include:

In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure


Found this information on the internet not sure if it will at least give some direction on where to head, funny when I lived in Nevada at least in Reno if the line got to long they just passed you when they walked by. Of course that has been a few years too.

 

Hello Fellow Las Vegas member. The gas cap thing is true, I've seen people fail for that? Did the place you get the smog done offer free returns or no pay if you don't pass? I'd change a couple things and go to a place that doesn't charge if you don't pass. Also on a 1992 ford tempo we had (yes I drove a tempo for a short time after my mustang carb went up in flames) we got a MAP/MAF Mass air flow from a junk yard that worked. Sensors from a junk yard are a gamble thou. Good luck!

 

I would make a new thread because this falls on new questions and the people in this are long gone if yall want me to, but here goes nothing...........

I just went down to Auto Zone and the computer told me that it was:
"Definition
Catalyst efficiency low-bank 1

Explanation
The oxygen sensors monitor the catalytic converters ability to store oxygen.

Probable Causes
1 - Catalytic Converter defective (Failure possibly due to #2, #3, or #4)
2 - Engine misfire or running condition
3 - Large Vacuum leak
4 - Engine oil leakage into exhaust-valve guide seals, piston rings"

I have a question on the 2 and 3. How can I check for those?
If its 4, I'm screwed but not royally. Got a bud who collects 2.3's.

Where is the coolant temp sensor?
And on checking the oxygen sensor. which wire do I check?
If it was a sensor making these codes happen, wouldn't there be a code saying the sensor is bad, that the cat is bad?

I have 2 white, 1 grey, and 1 black.

I dunno, I'm a diesel wrencher, and we don't have all this crap, if it was leaking oil into the intake it would just run better, believe, I've seen it. Don't know much on small passenger gassers. Help me please guys. Thanks.

 

off topic but

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...99#post1214399

 

Really? Nobody?

 

Most people don't really just "check" o2 sensors. They can be finiky, vary from car to car, depends on the multimeter, should use an oscilloscope, etc, etc.

at 175,000 miles, replace the thing, dont bother "checking" it.

For the possible "large vacuum leak" you can spray some carb cleaner, or the like near the intake manifold, intake hoses and duct work. If the engine rpm flutters, raises, dies, etc near a spot. There is a problem near there. Could be a MAF. Don't bother worrying about misfires, nothing you have listed relates to misfires.

The guys at autozone are parts people with a scan tool, not technicians, so take advice with a grain of salt.

 

Thanks man, didn't think of spraying ether. I've made up a list of things that I'm gonna replace on the truck. Think this weekend I'll take a couple cases of beer and some pizza to my friends house and this thing is getting an overhaul. I can rebuild a series 60 in a few hours, but these gassers give me hell.......sensor this, hose that, spark plug here and there, sometimes on, sometimes not......... Ima make a diesel ranger

GOD I WANT THIS TRUCK
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzN5aO-mo_g