Hello All:
I have been reading similar posts but still have questions specific to my circumstance that I need help with.

2011 Ford Ranger XLT
4x4, 4.0, Manual Transmission.
I bought this used from a dealer who did not reveal that the cruise did not work (I drove 5 hours to get this vehicle and decided I could get it fixed). I have since been throwing parts at it, as well as taking it to both an independent mechanic and a Ford dealership.

THE PROBLEM: The Cruise does not work in any fashion. No dash indicator light at any point, including at engine startup. The dash light does come on when I enable the self-diagnostic test!

The Fixes to date:
1. Motorcraft Cruise Cut Out Switch, Part # P5019679305MTR
2. Steering Wheel Cruise Switches, #7L5Z-9C888-AA
3. Servo Control Actuator Assembly #6L5Z9C735AA
4. Clock Spring, #9L5Z 14A66 A
5. Stoplight Switch F4863

Independent mechanic couldn't figure anything out and sent me to dealer ship for a clock spring replacement ($612). Dealer wanted $850 to replace Servo too, but I knew I could get it for $350 and installed it myself. Still did not help. I am now out about $1000.

I ran the self diagnostic test for the Cruise system using the steering wheel controls. It seems to have passed the "Static Test (OFF + KEY to 'on'; NO extra blinks). After entering into further diagnostic mode (OFF + RSM + CST + SET) I get three flashes. I thought that meant "Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is defective". Both the Cruise Control Cut Out Switch and the stoplight switch have been replaced already, so I don't understand that error message.

ADDITIONAL ITEMS:
1. TPS Sensor warning light is always on. I plan on replacing all the tires and will get that fixed then, BUT could that error influence the working of the speed control??

OK, so my questions:
1. Any ideas on what to try next? The dealer said they will give it another look, no charge, to see what else they might recommend. I feel that they were just throwing more (expensive) parts at it without really diagnosing the root cause of the problem.
2. Is there some sort of cut-off switch associated with the clutch pedal. That is one part I have not replaced (and frankly cannot find out if it even exists).
3. Could the speed sensor be part of the problem? The speedometer does work, but I read somewhere that there might not be enough voltage passing through the sensor to engage to cruise control simultaneously (real thing or no??). Where IS the Speed Sensor for the Cruise located???

If all else fails, is there a recommendation for an after market cruise control that I can install myself?..And before you suggest I live without the speed control, know that I live in Ohio and vacation in the Rockies and Four Corners area regularly, and really want a functioning cruise control for such long drives.

Thanks in advance!

--Bob K.