Stupid door dinger......snip a wire???
#1
Stupid door dinger......snip a wire???
<New post at bottom>
Hi.
I'm tired of cleaning out my truck or partying with friends w/ driver's doors open, listening to the radio(ign in accesory) and that dang dinger going off. With the passenger side open, no dinger w/ radio on. DING DING DING DING DING....IT DRIVES ME NUTS!!!!
Is there a wire that I can disconnect or anything I can do to make the dinger stop?? I know it's for safety, but I did do the seat belt chime delete, and ALWAYS wear my seat belt...so safety's okey.
Thanks!!
Shane
Hi.
I'm tired of cleaning out my truck or partying with friends w/ driver's doors open, listening to the radio(ign in accesory) and that dang dinger going off. With the passenger side open, no dinger w/ radio on. DING DING DING DING DING....IT DRIVES ME NUTS!!!!
Is there a wire that I can disconnect or anything I can do to make the dinger stop?? I know it's for safety, but I did do the seat belt chime delete, and ALWAYS wear my seat belt...so safety's okey.
Thanks!!
Shane
Last edited by Fx4wannabe01; 12-05-2005 at 08:21 PM.
#3
#6
#7
It's really simple. There is a red/grey wire behind the radio connected to the GEM [I think it's the GEM]. Tap that into the yelow/black wire so it thinks it is the passenger door, that way, the light and door ajar dash light still comes on, but the door dinger is dead.
Verify with the door dinger mod. I am sure it's here, there or somewhere.
Verify with the door dinger mod. I am sure it's here, there or somewhere.
#14
Guys....thank you very much, this mod will be done this weekend. Thanks again!!
Shane
Yea...I won't do that for the fuel pump turning on....all the lights on, draining the battery...heater/ac on.
Shane
Originally Posted by 00RANGER00
i put my key to "ON" w/o starting it and it dings for a few seconds and then it stops.......dont know if that helps.
i figured that one out one day cleaning up the truck.
i figured that one out one day cleaning up the truck.
#16
Guys....please don't bash me for thread diggin'.....but. I WAS STUPID. I didn't print off what I needed to when I could have months ago, now the links don't work. Does anyone have the how-to to dump the door dinger w/ accesorie circuit is on & driver door is open??? I think one of the links had good pics for this mod.
THANKS!!!
Shane
Ya'll...I apoligize.
THANKS!!!
Shane
Ya'll...I apoligize.
#17
#18
Note: Edited due to reversing the wire colors. The text below is NOW correct, but check it if you printed it earlier, or just look at Bob's post below.
The stuff is there in the directory Bob linked. Here's some pics and actually I did take these apparently:
This pic shows the connector to use:
This pic shows the two wires of interest teased out from the harness:
And Adam already told you what to do. CUT the yellow/black wire but leave a bit sticking out from the connector so you can reverse this. The piece that sticks out from the connector you should "tape off".
Now take the black/yellow wire from the harness and scotch-lok it (tap it into) the red/gray wire. Now both doors are on the passenger side circuit.
That's it.
The stuff is there in the directory Bob linked. Here's some pics and actually I did take these apparently:
This pic shows the connector to use:
This pic shows the two wires of interest teased out from the harness:
And Adam already told you what to do. CUT the yellow/black wire but leave a bit sticking out from the connector so you can reverse this. The piece that sticks out from the connector you should "tape off".
Now take the black/yellow wire from the harness and scotch-lok it (tap it into) the red/gray wire. Now both doors are on the passenger side circuit.
That's it.
Last edited by n3elz; 12-05-2005 at 09:00 PM.
#19
Here is the complete text of John's original How-To for the Door Dinger Mod. It should work for several years up through 2003.
Written By: John Griggs (N3ELZ) and Hunter Southworth.
Some folks have expressed an interest in being able to disable the door dinger chime without losing their dome light and door ajar functions. This mod does just that. Here's what it does. Some have reported that their passenger side door sets off the door chime as well. If your truck does this, then this mod won't do you any good.
• If you leave your keys in the ignition with the door open, there will be no chime.
• If you leave your lights on and the door is open, there will be no chime.
As with any mod that involves the electrical system of your truck, you should disconnect the negative cable from your battery to avoid any damage to the electrical components during the procedure.
Tools:
• Wire cutter (both procedures)
• Ford radio removal tools -- OR -- a 9/32 or 7mm socket and driver handle. (both procedures)
• Wire stripper (alternate procedure)
• Crimping tool (alternate procedure)
• 1 tap connector (standard method) or 1 small gauge butt splice or wire nut (alternate method)
1. Remove the radio or center console piece. You may either use the Ford radio removal tool to take out just the radio, or you may take off the center console by removing the two hex head screws just above the heater controls. If you remove the radio, remove all connectors and carefully set the radio aside. If you remove the console, use the 9/32 or 7mm socket and after taking out the screws, pull the console STRAIGHT out. Disconnect the wiring from everything and set the console aside.
2. To the left, mounted on a wall between the gauge area and the center console area is a black box with 3 connectors going into it. This is the GEM or generic electronic module as shown in the photo below.
3. One connector is the largest and has 26 pin positions. Another one (the one closest to you when you look at it) has 18 pin positions, and it is the one overhead console fans know as the one with the VSS wire on it. The third connector has 16 pin positions, but only 2 are used. We want the largest one, as shown by the red text in the photo above. It's easiest if you unplug it from the GEM.
4. About midway along this connector are a yellow wire with a black stripe (YE/BK) and a gray wire with a red stripe (GY/RD). They are RIGHT NEXT TO EACH OTHER and if you find those colors NOT right next to each other, you're on the wrong connector! These two wires are the two wires we're interested in. NOTE: for the standard procedure, proceed to step 5, for the alternate procedure, go to step 7.
5. Cut the YE/BK wire, but do it far enough from the connector that you have a 2 inch or so stub left on the connector in case you want to splice it back later. Tape the end of the YE/BK wire stub hanging from the connector.
6. Now connect the cut end of the YE/BK wire that goes into the wiring harness (not the one hanging from the GEM) to the GY/RD wire, using a tap connector. You're done! Reassemble everything, being careful if you have the 6CD changer to hold and keep it level when you attach the main connector.
Alternate Procedure:
7. Cut both the YE/BK and GY/RD wires, but cut them back about 2 inch or so from the connector. Tape the end of the YE/BK wire stub hanging from the connector.
8. Strip the remaining 3 wire ends and connect them all together using the butt splice, wire nut, or other method (such as soldering). Make sure the result is insulated when completed. You're done! Reassemble everything, being careful if you have the 6CD changer to hold and keep it level when you attach the main connector.
Written By: John Griggs (N3ELZ) and Hunter Southworth.
Some folks have expressed an interest in being able to disable the door dinger chime without losing their dome light and door ajar functions. This mod does just that. Here's what it does. Some have reported that their passenger side door sets off the door chime as well. If your truck does this, then this mod won't do you any good.
• If you leave your keys in the ignition with the door open, there will be no chime.
• If you leave your lights on and the door is open, there will be no chime.
As with any mod that involves the electrical system of your truck, you should disconnect the negative cable from your battery to avoid any damage to the electrical components during the procedure.
Tools:
• Wire cutter (both procedures)
• Ford radio removal tools -- OR -- a 9/32 or 7mm socket and driver handle. (both procedures)
• Wire stripper (alternate procedure)
• Crimping tool (alternate procedure)
• 1 tap connector (standard method) or 1 small gauge butt splice or wire nut (alternate method)
1. Remove the radio or center console piece. You may either use the Ford radio removal tool to take out just the radio, or you may take off the center console by removing the two hex head screws just above the heater controls. If you remove the radio, remove all connectors and carefully set the radio aside. If you remove the console, use the 9/32 or 7mm socket and after taking out the screws, pull the console STRAIGHT out. Disconnect the wiring from everything and set the console aside.
2. To the left, mounted on a wall between the gauge area and the center console area is a black box with 3 connectors going into it. This is the GEM or generic electronic module as shown in the photo below.
3. One connector is the largest and has 26 pin positions. Another one (the one closest to you when you look at it) has 18 pin positions, and it is the one overhead console fans know as the one with the VSS wire on it. The third connector has 16 pin positions, but only 2 are used. We want the largest one, as shown by the red text in the photo above. It's easiest if you unplug it from the GEM.
4. About midway along this connector are a yellow wire with a black stripe (YE/BK) and a gray wire with a red stripe (GY/RD). They are RIGHT NEXT TO EACH OTHER and if you find those colors NOT right next to each other, you're on the wrong connector! These two wires are the two wires we're interested in. NOTE: for the standard procedure, proceed to step 5, for the alternate procedure, go to step 7.
5. Cut the YE/BK wire, but do it far enough from the connector that you have a 2 inch or so stub left on the connector in case you want to splice it back later. Tape the end of the YE/BK wire stub hanging from the connector.
6. Now connect the cut end of the YE/BK wire that goes into the wiring harness (not the one hanging from the GEM) to the GY/RD wire, using a tap connector. You're done! Reassemble everything, being careful if you have the 6CD changer to hold and keep it level when you attach the main connector.
Alternate Procedure:
7. Cut both the YE/BK and GY/RD wires, but cut them back about 2 inch or so from the connector. Tape the end of the YE/BK wire stub hanging from the connector.
8. Strip the remaining 3 wire ends and connect them all together using the butt splice, wire nut, or other method (such as soldering). Make sure the result is insulated when completed. You're done! Reassemble everything, being careful if you have the 6CD changer to hold and keep it level when you attach the main connector.
#20
#21
#22
Originally Posted by n3elz
Thanks, Bob! Lack of foresight on my part: I never saved a complete copy...
John, would it possible to add this to your CarDomain site and/or submit it to the How-To Forum? It needs to be available as a permanent How-To somewhere.
#24
Originally Posted by rwenzing
During the short time I was on G-E, the Dinger Mod was only posted on rangeredge.com but that site no longer has a functional How-To section.
John, would it possible to add this to your CarDomain site and/or submit it to the How-To Forum? It needs to be available as a permanent How-To somewhere.
John, would it possible to add this to your CarDomain site and/or submit it to the How-To Forum? It needs to be available as a permanent How-To somewhere.
I'd be perfectly happy to see it put up here. I don't think Hunter is around anymore, but I'd like his name to stay on it.
What happened is, he asked about doing it, and I described, with no pictures and in very abbreviated terms, what to do and he did it and tested it out. I thought he deserved some credit for that even if I did write it up.