I'd like a higher output alternator to help keep up with my electrical system. please no "why dont you just get a second battery" nonsense... I'm planning on that too haha.

but all I can find is one from motor city reman for up to 05, and a couple from summit for $300 for a 200 Amp.

motor city has them for up to 250 Amp for $300, and lesser ratings for lesser prices. but it lists the same thing for rangers from 92-05 2.3/2.5/3.0/4.0 are they really all the same? does anyone know if they are good alternators? I think Dave might have one. Are there other options for a high output alternator? I want enough for my 1200 watts of sub and additional lighting accessories and possible future expansion. and I don't want to even be close to my limit. so I'd really like 175 plus.

whats the stock alternator? 95 amp?

http://www.motorcityreman.com/high-a...ks-ranger.html

http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...ord=alternator

 

i think an expo one is 130 and is a direct bolt on...and rangers are 90 or 95

 

I just bought one from dcpower, 195 amps for 329$. Also bought a zero gauge wiring setup.

 

200 amps should be good for anything right? what does a stock truck draw at most?

basic math tells me IF my amp is operating at full capacity (1200 watts) it will be drawing 88.88 amps at 13.5 volts. call it 90. then leaving 110 amps for all my other accessories and the normal truck system draw? say, I dunno, 8 auxiliary lights, a couple 36" fluorescent lights, alright..

8 55 watt lights would draw 33 amps at 13.5 volts... oh and my speaker amp is... 400 watts. thats another 30 amps. thats about 150 amps total. and thats 8 lights on and both amps at full capacity, i.e. never gonna happen.

I think 200 would be enough for anything I do.

 

If you're mechanically inclined and can handle detailed work involving some soldering, you can upgrade a core alternator fairly cheaply. I was just looking into this last week...upgrade rebuild kits in 240a only run about $120. Percentage wise comparing say an off the shelf 200a alternator and the labor involved, it doesn't seem worth it. But if you're after a challenge like myself, it's very well worth it. There's some rebuild of G3 alternator videos on the youtubes.

I can't seem to find the links right now. All I know is I need something soon...12.1v at idle with headlights and heater fan on worries me. lol.

 

Don't get motorcity reman. Korey told me to tell you not to get one because he went through 4 of them and 1 actually exploded

 

I got my 200a from an alternator company on evilBay.

Can't remember if you saw mine or not, but here's an old pic:



I always have at least 14v no matter how much electrical stuff I have on.
Seems like it was about $250 +/- back when I got it.

 

Take a look at these guys.
$$$ but good stuff ain't cheap.

They do high end Emergency Vehicles and First Responder Stuff.

http://www.wranglerpower.com/

Their site used to be easier to deal with bu things change.

WHEN I get there I will be running their unit.

I run one of their Jumper Cable setup, HD all the way and they will custom build any size you want.
I added an end for the quick connect and a short and long extension to make the Cables usable as std Jumpers, extendable and fleet use.
Really nice products.

 

my dcpower alt has about 10mm less diameter than the stock one.

 

Most I have seen are in the $300 + range now and the NW Wrangler HD Units can go over the $400 toward the $500 mark.

Terry, Nice job ob the alt install, closing up the ends of the tune with tape, good work as usual.


As far as case size, usually the HIGH output units have larger cases because of component size, heat sinks and fans for cooling. heat sinks, yes, because the more current flowing the more heat and it has to be gotten rid of or it will destroy the alternator.
When you get smaller or OEM cases you get high output but usually at higher RPMs not at idle; some of the NW Wrangler unit have 120 amps at idle.
The idle output is something to consider, if you are running an HO Amp, drawing high amperage and want to listen to it while parked you don’t want to have to rev up the engine just for it to work properly; double check the output amperage at idle before buying.

 

what years are interchangeable? DC power doesn't list one for an 06, motor city reman lists the same one for every ranger from 92+.

Are there other vehicle applications I can look for that will work easily on the 4.0 sohc, like from an explorer?

are DB electrical alternators any good?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-2-3L-3-...sories&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-H...sories&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.singeralternators.com/

i got a quote for my 92 w/4.0 for a 230amp, 390 shipped with lifetime warranty, its also plug and play, with oem wireing. also have never heard a negative thing about singer alts. he said it does 130-140@idle

 

I have a 195 amp DC power alternator that I just bought for 329 that has never been installed. I also have the installation kit (0 gauge wiring) that I'm selling because I'm getting rid of my truck asap.

Here is the link if anyone is interested:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/old-interior-exterior-electrical-misc-119/best-dc-power-engineering-high-output-190-amp-alternator-il-134255/

 

Just fyi most of the ford alternators swap. I just put my spare 140A rewind into a buddies 90s bronco with a 351. Bolt in plug and play. I will have to check but I'm pretty sure the bigger diesel ones will fit as well. You might be able to get a stock 195A from one of those dirt cheap.

 

I may indulge...


thanks for the info! I'll have to check, I'll look at some trucks at work and see.

 

Let me know fast because I'm purging out both my trucks and all my ranger parts asap.

 

Are you planning on doing the big 3 with this also?

 

fyi - the big 3 wiring comes with the alternator i'm selling

 

I have 1/0 power and grounds already run to alternator, ground from battery, and I think block to body ground. I could always use a little more wiring somewhere though my install isn't the cleanest.

 

let me know if you are interested

 

Yeah, the end of the wire loom had a little opening in it with that bend in it so I sealed the end up with some red elect. tape. For comparison, the little black wire with red tape on the end is the OEM wire.

+1 on the idle output too. Mine is rated at 200a at idle where some I saw were rated at 100a at idle & 200a @ 1500rpm.

 

Aight so I bought the alternator from Jp7. Maybe he'll chime in but I had a quick question on the wiring... The alternator came with an adaptor harness to plug into the ford harness now, but the harness only has 2 wires, a green/red and a yellow/white wire. The factory plug has a white/black wire in the middle pin, as well as a second connector, also white/black. what is this for, is it needed, how can I wire it into the new alternator? The middle pin is obvious, but is it needed, or is that something just the factory alternator uses?

See pics

New alternator/harness



Factory plug view

 

Nice job on the heavy wiring, most people would never consider the grounding system in the equation, it is very important.
Wouldn’t hurt to run a “0” or “2" gauge ground wire to the inside of the cab and a new ground bar, running any new grounds to ground bar.
Same outside in the engine bay, a separate ground bar or stud and all of the extra accessories should go there, just me an the overkill thing.

 

Would this alternator work? It says it'll work on a 93-01 Expo 4.0.....

HO Alt

 

Well I agree, I have extra wire now with the Jp7 package, plus some grounding straps that are an inch wide, so yeah, they are pretty beef.

in all likeliehood, yes, most of these alternators seems to be the same. but I do already have my new one anyway.


Does anyone know about the black/white wire? Bob?