Horn wiring
#1
Horn wiring
I am going to wire an additional horn in my truck. It's going to have its own button and not replace the stock horn. Would you guys supply the power from the distribution box, or can I tap into a power wire behind the radio/dash? I'm not sure how much power it draws and if that could be a problem.
#2
use a 30 amp relay. use this diagram BUT instead of two lights just use the red for the +12 to the horn http://www.kchilites.com/faq/instruc...layDiagram.pdf
#5
#9
mount the horn somewhere where you would like it.
Then ground the ground wire from the horn.
Then use a relay to give the horn power.
Get the power for the horn from the battery.
For the switch, if you want a switch that can be hidden. Do like I did, I used a small black push button switch that's normally used as the valet/programming button for an alarm system. I then mounted it on the lower part of the steering column near the ignition switch.
It doesn't really matter what type of switch you use, because the horns will draw all the amperage that it needs through the relay not the switch. The relay only uses mili amps so it won't burn out the switch.
I can't find a pic of the switch that I used, But I can try to take a pic of one tomorrow while i'm at the shop and i'll post it. If you want one like it, send me your addy in a pm and i'll mail one to you.
Here is a pic if you need it, that shows how to wire up the relay. Instead of the regular on/off switch, you can use any type of switch you want.
Vic
Then ground the ground wire from the horn.
Then use a relay to give the horn power.
Get the power for the horn from the battery.
For the switch, if you want a switch that can be hidden. Do like I did, I used a small black push button switch that's normally used as the valet/programming button for an alarm system. I then mounted it on the lower part of the steering column near the ignition switch.
It doesn't really matter what type of switch you use, because the horns will draw all the amperage that it needs through the relay not the switch. The relay only uses mili amps so it won't burn out the switch.
I can't find a pic of the switch that I used, But I can try to take a pic of one tomorrow while i'm at the shop and i'll post it. If you want one like it, send me your addy in a pm and i'll mail one to you.
Here is a pic if you need it, that shows how to wire up the relay. Instead of the regular on/off switch, you can use any type of switch you want.
Vic
Last edited by vp6799; 08-14-2005 at 07:58 PM.
#11
Originally Posted by keystone
I'm just worried about shocking myself when attaching the power wire to the battery. Is there a certain method of doing this that is safe?
A positive supply wire can be added under one of the nuts using a properly installed ring terminal. It is critical that the wire ampacity is adequate for the expected current and that an inline fuse of the correct size is used to protect the wire. To minimize the amount of unprotected wire, the fuse must be mounted as close to the box as possible.
Be sure to reinstall the small plastic cover. Those two lugs will be hot all the time when the battey is reconnected.
#12
#13
Originally Posted by keystone
thanks Bob, thats what I was looking for. How easy is it to remove the battery cables. And is there anything to look out for. I'm not very experienced with this kind of thing yet.
Whatever you do, be sure you wire it adequately and use the correct fuse. It is important that the ring terminal is properly crimped and other connections are made correctly. This is not the place for twisted together wires and tape.
Good luck with your project.
#14
#15
#16
Originally Posted by keystone
Well I got everything in and working. Thanks for the diagram Vic. It did the trick. Zach I tried your diagram first, but nothing happened when I grounded the switch. I don't know why it works for lights and not a horn. Thanks again for your help.
Vic
#19
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