General Technical & ElectricalGeneral technical and electrical discussion for the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.
Welcome to Ford Ranger Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource
Welcome to Ford Ranger Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Ok guys, tomorrow at work I'm going to have one of the drivability techs take a look at my truck for a minor vibration while braking. It generally happens most noticably when I'm slowing down under moderate braking (not so much under light or heavy braking) between the speeds of 30 and 25mph. It happens with the tranny in gear while engine braking or while in neutral. I feel it primarily through the pedals and the seat (not the steering wheel) with the 6th sense telling me its originating from the passenger side rear. It feels sort of like a subdued wheel hop, and it does change in 'frequency' with wheel speed. I was hoping it was the nail I had in my tire, but I had that pulled and plugged today with no appreciable effects. My right rear wheel still has both weights attached to it, and all lug nuts are fastened tightly.
Guesses? Like I said, its going to be looked at by a professional tomorrow, I just want to see if anybody here guesses it right.
__________________
WOWAK:
2003 Edge Reg Cab 2x4 3.0L 5M 8.8LS - Red
1991 Miata - British Racing Green Special Edition (3716 of 4000)
hmm, its possible the tire is out of round or needs to be rebalanced, or it could be a brake problem, such as a drum out of round or the shoes wearing funny. thats all i can think of right this second, besides a 1% chance there is something wrong with the rear suspension back there. cant hurt to check
Are you sure your lug nuts are "tight", lol! Mine were tight, but the studs were so long they were actually bottoming out, leaving bit of play in my wheel. You have aftermarket wheels so it's possible.
I think brakes possibly also. Sounds like a "rear" thing. Try stopping at that speed using the parking brake and if the problem feels worse, it's probably the rear brakes. If it feels less, it's probably in the front brakes.
Mines does the same thing. I am actually going up to National Tire & Battery where I bought my wheels and have them rebalance them. I would do that where you bought tires last. They should do it for free. Better than taking it to a shop and having them tell you the same thing and charging you $100 for it.
how long has it been doing this? any recent work in the brakes or tires? possible a warped drum but that doesnt happen to often. i would say warped rotor but u said if feels as its coming from the rear. i would say ur wheel weights came off and its out of balance.
how long has it been doing this? any recent work in the brakes or tires? possible a warped drum but that doesnt happen to often. i would say warped rotor but u said if feels as its coming from the rear. i would say ur wheel weights came off and its out of balance.
Its very easy to still warp a drum, my truck has warped both of them, and even on my old f-150 they warped after time. if the vibration feels like its in your *** and feet and not the steering wheel almost 110% rear drums warped.
Well, they turned the front rotors and the problem seems to have gona away. The work was done under warranty, though the tech beleives my large wheels and tires played a part in warping the rotors in the first place. Oddly enough, he recommended cross-drilled rotors, which I've always thought to be ricey and prone to cracking. I'll get several second opinions on the cross-drilled rotors, but I'm even more interested now in TbarCya's rear disk conversion efforts to share in the braking duty of slowing my larger wheel/tire combo.
bull****, warped rotors are mainly caused by improperly (read over torqued) lug nuts. i said front rotors may be warped...
usually people crank down on the lugs with an air gun and it doesnt give even pressure on the rotor surface and thats USUALLY what warps rotors. cross drilled rotors have there place but not in a DD IMO. if it was me, i would want the most contact patch from the pad-rotor as possible.
So where exactly in the Coal Region ARE you from? I was born in Pottsville Hospital, grew up in Turkey Run (Shenandoah) and moved to the Ringtown valley when I was in the 5th grade. I went to H.S. at Cardinal Brennan (class of 97.) How about you?
Lets play "GUESS THAT VIBRATION!!!!"
