Ahahaha c'mon evan, I still need front shocks, a front driveshaft, which I won't get until i get finished making the doulber. Then i'll need a shorter rear driveshaft. I gotta make a winch mount and throw it on there. Gotta get a spare tire carrier. Might put my toolbox back in there, so I can keep everything dry (i used to have a soft tonneau cover).

 

Kinks would of sumed it up lol..but i got a list nice..you better get on that before march..i got me a dry earse board in my room with a list of mods i gotta get done "kinks" that i need to get done..just lil stuff but it all adds up..

What kind of shocks you runnin?

 

Pro-comp es3000's in the rear. Cheap, yet effective. I'm not gonna spend 100$ a shock when pro-comps will work just fine.

I prolly won't have the doulber done by march, so still no 4wd. I haven't even really started re-searching how the fawk to do it.

 

Ha thanks. The t-case is on the way, but i think i'm going to wait a while to do it. So i'm probably going to go ahead and get a d-shaft made for the next couple months before I get the doubler made.

I have to take my t-case out so I can mate them together etc, so it would be un-driveable, again...

 

jey did you get a price for your front drive shaft? i was just kinda curious how much that will run. cant be cheap.

 

Naw not yet zach. I'm in between jobs since I started school back. But i'm expecting a call back tonight or tomorrow for an interview. So a week or two after I'm working again i'll get one made and let ya'll know.

Should be from 200-300$.

 

Ok well i figured since my truck is pretty far along I'd make a post summarizing what all I have done and all of the specs of the build. Hope this helps some people so they don't have to read the whole thing.

2003 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4 Black
3" PA body lift.
Cut off IFS and all related bracketry.
1981 Jeep Wagoneer Spring under Dana 44.

Internal parts of Dana 44
Yukon 5.13 gears.
Yukon Master install kit.
Full spool.
Yukon Chromoly 30 spline inner shafts.
Yukon Chromoly 19 spline outter shafts.
All brand new brake parts (rotor, calipers, bearings etc)

External Front axle parts/set up
Parks Mike Parts Flat top Knuckles w/ ball joints and high steer arm studs.
Blue torch fab High steer arms (both sides)
TT's fabworks Spring perches and u-bolts.
Blue torch fab Kryptonite diff cover and bolts.
1.5" .250 wall Tie-rod/drag link with 5/8" heims.
RE1555 28" stainless steel brake lines.

Steering
1992 IFS toyota steering box from Foxfab.
Ported for hydro assist by Mild2Wild.
PSC hydo-assist ram.
Custom steering shaft (ranger and 'yota shaft mated together)
Allprofab one peice pitman arm.
Custom power steering pressure hoses.

Front suspension
Alcan custom leafs based off of 8 3/8" rise 7 leaf waggy springs, shortened ~6".
4.5" Stock ranger rear shackles.
No shocks as of yet lol.

Rear axle internal
1999 Explorer Sport Trac 31 spline 8.8.
Yukon 5.13 gears.
Yukon master install kit.
Full detroit locker.
Superior chromoly 31 spline, custom 6 lug shafts.

Rear axle external
Redrilled rotors to 6 lug.
Brand new brake parts (rotor, calipers etc)
7.5 Spring perches off of elliott's old axle lol.
95 exploder spring plates.
95 exploder u-bolts.
Stock diff cover and bolts.

Rear suspension
63" 1992 Chevy 1500 leaf springs.
4.5" stock chevy shackles.
Flipped, cut, and box shackle hangers.
Pushed forward ~6" front spring hangers.
24 (i think?) ES3000 shocks
Mild2Wild shock tabs.

Body
Dovetailed truckbed 17" at tailgate.
Added 2 1x1 square tubing bed supports.
Chopped bumper.
(When i get front fenders...)Cut front fenders.

Engine
MAC intake.
Pro-M MAF.
Half-shafted throttle body.
Ground throttle stop.
Motorcraft double platinum plugs.
Gutted last cat.
2 chamber flowmaster with turndown.

Interior
Door handle surround, floor cup holders, and radio bezel matching green satin paint as axles.
Relocated A/C controls to cup-holders.
Mounted CB in-dash.
Gauges changed to red.
Pioneer DEH1500 (??) headunit.
Sony 1200 watt 2 channel amp.
4 gauge Rockford wires/RCA's.
Custom sealed box i built for 2 Alpine type E 10's (don't have them yet though lol)

Exterior
Headlight mod
Blinker mod.
Camo painted grille and whats left of rear bumper.
60 watt PA speaker painted black behind grille.
MM9500 SE winch (not yet mounted.)

I think thats everything.

 

Some random new pics. and me next to a stock edge, doesn't do it justice though.

 

I'm keeping the UPS man in shape.









Thanks jesse (daytonabeachranger). It was packaged good, took me about 10 minutes to get through all the tape and old t-shirts lol.

 

Started on the doubler today.

Jeep flexin on the t-case.



Cracked the case open...



Innards looking torward front half of case...



Chain and rear planetary set.



Output shaft I have to get cut and respline.



Service manual helps, but I didn't use it...



Front planetary and inputshaft housing removed





Case cut to allow front driveshaft off of rear/full case to go by.





Me and my beautiful g/f Jen.



And another comparison. 2wd mazda. Roof is roughly at the bottom of my windows.

 

does it lean to the driver side?

 

...yes...whereve you been? It leans in every picture. Gas tank is on that side.

 

any way to fix that?

i guess if you eliminated your stock tank and got a fuel cell, mostly centered, hmm?

 

It's not really a concern.

Its on all rangers. Look under your truck, your drivers torsion bar is further cranked than your passenger.

 

Well, in about an hour or so I'm runnin up to homedepot to get some more grade 8 bolts and then I'll bolt my winch plate up and run the wires etc for my winch.

But first, this is everything that will be in the t-case for the doubler. Front planetary/inputshaft, front planetary shift-fork, and output shaft.



Here's a tribute to all you fawkers who ***** about my damn fog-light.



Took off bumper brackets.



Cut front crossmember off. If you want some factory black tow-hooks, PM me.



The winch plate will sit between the frame-rails and the front and bottom will be flush with the frame.



Bling bling.

 

Didn't get the winch mounted all the way. Its a warn plate and MM winch, I gotta grind a hair off of the rear mounting legs of the winch so that it can slide back 1/16" so the holes will line up, and so theres room for bolts for the roll-fairlead. I cut some of the grille support out, and I'll have to notch the grille-surround so the solenoid box will fit.

 

hey jey can u measure something 4 me?from the middle of the front spring to the middle of the other front spring. thanks.

 

31". Exactly.

 

look'n good jey, looks like you had to move the trany cooler too eh. its coming along nice!

thanks for the hella removal..it was getn old..haha

and on that mazda, not only was the roof at yer window...but yer tires were about at its mirrors lol

 

man u gotta fix that lean.....that'd bother me ....all that work and it sits sideways...none the less kick ***!

 

so worth it for the nice soft flex

 

Every solid axle ranger/explorer I've seen with leafs/coils leans to the drivers side. It doesn't matter off-road, and thats what matters.

 

Ya I had to move it up so as to not come in contact/melt the solenoid box ontop of the winch. It never stopped fawking raining. So I'll grind down the legs tonight, and hopefully bolt it up/wire it up tomorrow.

Anyone wanna donate some money so I can get my output shaft resplined for the doubler?

 

I think it leans because there's more equipment on that side of the truck, which weighs more. That's also why the passenger side torsion bolt isn't in as far.

 

Kyle at first i thought you were gona say somthn about driver weight...lol , yea the t-case, gas tank, steering..etc is all on driver side