034x4 Solid Axle Swap Thread
#602
I have to ask a question... I am about to do the same front axle swap in mine and I need one question answered as soon as you can.... I currently have about 10" of suspension lift in mine now and it is sitting on 37's... how big do the front lift springs need to be to lift it back to where it is now? It is currently spring under... could you maybe give me an estimate on how big i would need if i kept it spring under or if i converted it to spring over? I would appreciate all the help you could give me... anyways... killer truck man... love it...
#603
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Definately do spring-over. It gets ALOT better articulation. I would never do spring under on anything.
A spring over typically gives about 5-6" of lift with the same springs, simply by swapping them on-top of the axle. So if you have 10" of lift in the rear, and make it spring-over, you would only need 4-5" lift springs.
Are you using a dana 44 from a wagoneer? I did, made it spring over with 7-leaf wagoneer based alcan springs and it gave it about 6" of suspension lift.
So I would go to bjsoffroad.com (i think thats the site) they do all things full-size jeep. And get 4-5" lift springs for the wagoneer and just use those, spring over.
You can get the perches and u-bolts from ttsfabworks.com.
If ya need to know anything else just let me know.
A spring over typically gives about 5-6" of lift with the same springs, simply by swapping them on-top of the axle. So if you have 10" of lift in the rear, and make it spring-over, you would only need 4-5" lift springs.
Are you using a dana 44 from a wagoneer? I did, made it spring over with 7-leaf wagoneer based alcan springs and it gave it about 6" of suspension lift.
So I would go to bjsoffroad.com (i think thats the site) they do all things full-size jeep. And get 4-5" lift springs for the wagoneer and just use those, spring over.
You can get the perches and u-bolts from ttsfabworks.com.
If ya need to know anything else just let me know.
#604
Yeah, its from a wagoneer... I'm more than likely going to spring over the axle... probably wont be putting it in until May or so...
Also... Is it absolutely necessary to get a better steering box... like a F250 or Wagoneer one? What is gained from this?
Thanks for the help!
Also check this web site out for axle swap parts.... seem reasonable on some stuff...
www.independent4x.com
Also... how do you think these would do?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...spagenameZWD1V
Also... Is it absolutely necessary to get a better steering box... like a F250 or Wagoneer one? What is gained from this?
Thanks for the help!
Also check this web site out for axle swap parts.... seem reasonable on some stuff...
www.independent4x.com
Also... how do you think these would do?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...spagenameZWD1V
Last edited by _97_4X4_; 01-23-2006 at 07:16 PM.
#605
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Well yours being a 97 you can use your steering box, but it might not be up to the task. My friend with a solid axle explorer (96-97 i think) swaped in an f-250 box. Strength and ability to turn the bigger tires is gained.
Find out the rise on those springs. (height measurement from the center-pin (mounting surface side) to the spring eye. Mine are 8 3/8 i believe? It's in my thread somewhere when I got the springs.
You can also use the 44044 waggy springs on independant4x. Alot of solid axle rangers/explorers/ hell even alot of jeeps use these on the front. They will only give you about 6-7 inches of lift though. Other stuff on the site looks good.
Find out the rise on those springs. (height measurement from the center-pin (mounting surface side) to the spring eye. Mine are 8 3/8 i believe? It's in my thread somewhere when I got the springs.
You can also use the 44044 waggy springs on independant4x. Alot of solid axle rangers/explorers/ hell even alot of jeeps use these on the front. They will only give you about 6-7 inches of lift though. Other stuff on the site looks good.
#606
I asked the seller about the measurements of the springs and this is what he gave me:
They are 42 inches straight across eye to eye, 46 inches flat length eye to eye, 22.75 x 23.25 front to pin, pin to rear.
Do you think this would work? If not, do you know where I could get some 6" lift springs?
Also, Ryanrebel, where did you get your procomp traction bars and your front springs?
Thanks for any help either of you can give me!
I asked for the rise of the springs and this is what he said:
The free arch is 8in with no weight on them. With the weight pushing down, they will be right at 5in lift above stock.
They are 42 inches straight across eye to eye, 46 inches flat length eye to eye, 22.75 x 23.25 front to pin, pin to rear.
Do you think this would work? If not, do you know where I could get some 6" lift springs?
Also, Ryanrebel, where did you get your procomp traction bars and your front springs?
Thanks for any help either of you can give me!
I asked for the rise of the springs and this is what he said:
The free arch is 8in with no weight on them. With the weight pushing down, they will be right at 5in lift above stock.
Last edited by _97_4X4_; 01-25-2006 at 12:10 PM.
#607
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#612
Originally Posted by 034x4
Mine were superior chomoly w/ 6 lug flange for ~250 shipped.
For an f-150 patter just get the shafts re-drilled and run SCREW-IN studs. What are you going to do for the front?
For an f-150 patter just get the shafts re-drilled and run SCREW-IN studs. What are you going to do for the front?
Would screw in studs compromise the strength of the axle shaft or flange?
#613
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Got it all figure out.
When I get taxes back this year, i'm going to build a truss for my rear axle. Going to run 2.5" .250 wall 40" long lowers with 3/4" heims. 35" 1.5" .250 wall uppers with 5/8" heims. Roughly 6-7" verticle seperation at the axle. Uppers will be triangulated at close to 40*. Lowers will mount on the outside of the frame-rail so as to keep them off the rocks.
I'm going to run coil-overs through the bed and mount them to hoops that will mount on the frame and connect to each other with another tube and hopefully tie that into a spare tire carrier.
I will have to re-locate my gas-tank to the truckbed, i'm just going to mount the straps to the floor of the bed.
When I get taxes back this year, i'm going to build a truss for my rear axle. Going to run 2.5" .250 wall 40" long lowers with 3/4" heims. 35" 1.5" .250 wall uppers with 5/8" heims. Roughly 6-7" verticle seperation at the axle. Uppers will be triangulated at close to 40*. Lowers will mount on the outside of the frame-rail so as to keep them off the rocks.
I'm going to run coil-overs through the bed and mount them to hoops that will mount on the frame and connect to each other with another tube and hopefully tie that into a spare tire carrier.
I will have to re-locate my gas-tank to the truckbed, i'm just going to mount the straps to the floor of the bed.
#616
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Originally Posted by Gearhead61
You don't think the straps will pull out of the bottom of the bed? That sure as hell sounds badass though! How'd you come up with your numbers for links?
I based it off of jonathon's link measurements and got up under the truck and mounting the uppers onto an existing crossmember so they'll be roughly 35", and I want the lowers to be longer so I'll use 40". The truss will be about 6" above the top of the tube. With a 3x3 square tubing truss, that'll put the link about 7" above the lowers, which will be a little lower than the center-line of the axle.
I'm gonna find some used coilovers for cheap, and build the mounts around them. But i'll still look for a certain range of length, not just whatever pops up.
#617
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#618
Originally Posted by 034x4
Naw there are little crossmembers built into the bed where the bolts go through. I'll bolt it through there.
I based it off of jonathon's link measurements and got up under the truck and mounting the uppers onto an existing crossmember so they'll be roughly 35", and I want the lowers to be longer so I'll use 40". The truss will be about 6" above the top of the tube. With a 3x3 square tubing truss, that'll put the link about 7" above the lowers, which will be a little lower than the center-line of the axle.
I'm gonna find some used coilovers for cheap, and build the mounts around them. But i'll still look for a certain range of length, not just whatever pops up.
I based it off of jonathon's link measurements and got up under the truck and mounting the uppers onto an existing crossmember so they'll be roughly 35", and I want the lowers to be longer so I'll use 40". The truss will be about 6" above the top of the tube. With a 3x3 square tubing truss, that'll put the link about 7" above the lowers, which will be a little lower than the center-line of the axle.
I'm gonna find some used coilovers for cheap, and build the mounts around them. But i'll still look for a certain range of length, not just whatever pops up.