93 ford ranger complete rebuild from bare frame with SAS
#1
93 ford ranger complete rebuild from bare frame with SAS
I have a 93 ford ranger that i stripped down to the bare frame. I am going to sand blast and paint the frame to stop any rust. Upon rebuild i am installing a dana 44 into the front. I dont want a huge lifted truck but i want it to flex to the max. Is there anything special to this beside putting the coil buckets as high as you can? i am planning on using the bronco graveyard 4" superflex coils and dont have any clue what to use for shocks. i am going to use the stock radius arms and beef them up some and add johnny joints or some kind of joint that is similar to it with DOM tube welded onto the original threaded shaft. Along with a solid axle i am going to upgrade the engine to a 302 or depending on the availability a 351 cause everyone loves horse power!
Question i have:
1.What is the best way to have a good flexing truck but still has a low center of gravity.
2. What shocks will offer the best articulation in both directions that aren't to pricey.
This is my first project and am not to experienced in this stuff. I am in college and dont have tons of money. I want to do this right but cant afford the best right now. I did strip the entire truck myself (with the exception of some heavy lifting) and am planning on doing most the work myself so i am open to any suggestions and ideas. This is open to anything since i am working with a bare frame right now.
Thanks everyone.
Question i have:
1.What is the best way to have a good flexing truck but still has a low center of gravity.
2. What shocks will offer the best articulation in both directions that aren't to pricey.
This is my first project and am not to experienced in this stuff. I am in college and dont have tons of money. I want to do this right but cant afford the best right now. I did strip the entire truck myself (with the exception of some heavy lifting) and am planning on doing most the work myself so i am open to any suggestions and ideas. This is open to anything since i am working with a bare frame right now.
Thanks everyone.
#3
Will do. these arent the most updated pictures. it literally just a frame with leaf springs sitting on the ground right now. My next step is to get it sand blasted and painted and have my dana 44 stripped down and painted also. i will have someone replace the bearings and seals due to the lack of tools on my part. After that i can start to reassemble
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#11
the visor and racer back is off for good. i never removed the scoops cause there would be holes in the hood and glue marks.
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if you want it super flexy than link it instead of the radius arms,
but depending on the year the wedges may be cast in to the tubes, instead of weld on, so you cant cut them off
if you are going to use the radius arms extending them helps with flex and ride smoothness,
and like you said puting a joint on the frame end instead of bushings helps also
as far as best shocks and springs you could convert it to coilovers
but depending on the year the wedges may be cast in to the tubes, instead of weld on, so you cant cut them off
if you are going to use the radius arms extending them helps with flex and ride smoothness,
and like you said puting a joint on the frame end instead of bushings helps also
as far as best shocks and springs you could convert it to coilovers
#16
we are just going to line it up and mark the holes that are already one the fame and drill it out of the bumper then bolt it on. It probably would be a good idea to weld a plate on to the fame to get it some strength. but we will see. as of now the frame will break before the bumper will.
#17
if you want it super flexy than link it instead of the radius arms,
but depending on the year the wedges may be cast in to the tubes, instead of weld on, so you cant cut them off
if you are going to use the radius arms extending them helps with flex and ride smoothness,
and like you said puting a joint on the frame end instead of bushings helps also
as far as best shocks and springs you could convert it to coilovers
but depending on the year the wedges may be cast in to the tubes, instead of weld on, so you cant cut them off
if you are going to use the radius arms extending them helps with flex and ride smoothness,
and like you said puting a joint on the frame end instead of bushings helps also
as far as best shocks and springs you could convert it to coilovers
Last edited by mcramer15; 07-31-2010 at 11:19 PM. Reason: miss spelling
#18
I was Lucky this weekend and found a 302 engine and a 9 in. rear axle all in one. i think i only have to pay about 150 for everything. the engine runs good. they are out of a 82 or 83 ford van. I still need a manual transmission tho. any suggestions? and will they all mount to my stock transfer case?
#19
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What vehicles have the zf? It seems like allot of people like the borg warner t-5, anything wrong with the t-5? And with the shifter you can always make a custom shift stick and cut the floor however i need.
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The T5 is a nice trans, but not for 4WD. They are hard to find with the transfer case adapter since they only came in Jeeps and some S10's. Plus from everything I have read the 4WD version are Non-World Class which makes there power capacity very low. Advance adapters used to make a conversion for a World Class T5 from a mustang but that is long out of production.