like the description says when it hits around 3500 rpm the CEL flashes and as the rpm raise the CEL steadys, so after i changed plugs and wires cause of bad gas milage, i belive it only does this in second gear now, i think it's good in third gear, and yes i have no choice but to have high rpms like that when you live in the mountian, and have to deal with the rally steap hills like i do. thanks

 

Flashing CEL means you're backfiring. Have you changed your ignition coil yet?

 

Easiest thing to do is pull the codes. Then go from there.

 

is there a coad scanner port in an 89 2.3 L I havn't seen one yet, and after I was away for a week and came back, drov it yesterday, ran fine, started it this morning idled fine, ran wirpers and then right befor i went to pull out the rpms dropped and acted like it was coing to stall, and took more effort to pull out, started to do it when i pulled out of my driveway, went down my road and every time i put my foot on the gass the CEL would come on steady and when i took off the gas it would go away and when i shifted and reapplied gas it would be delayed and the rpm would drop and go normal really quick, and it got alittle better the warmer it got untill i got into town when the CEL went of and pulled into the parking lot let it ilde and t idled fine, any idea, and what exactly do you mean by back firing, because the engine feels and runs fine when the CEL flashes, and this moring sounded and ran fine after i pulled out of my driveway except when i shifted and put oped the throttle back up

 

ok well i figured out were the port is and that i need an obd 1 scanner, or can do it with a tst light, however my CEL doesn't always stay on, after yesterday morning it ran fine an noCEL, same with this morning until i got to the school and the CEL came on steady.

 

Just because the cel is not on there could still be codes.

 

alright, well thats good in my case, i think i'm gonna take a trip to advanced hear real soon and use one of their scanners, one mor question, will the code only appear one time, or will you have one code appear a lot?

 

every code will show up once.

 

well thats good, and this morning it ****ed around again jerked when i gave it gas after i shifted, again, and then ideled high at like 1500 rps when i got to the school.

 

ok ****ed up scanning last night, thought it would be long flashes fallowed by short ones, anyways, 23 and 41, were two i got, anyways, now that i know what i'm doing going to scan again since the CEL came on, on the way to school this morning, so 41 oxygen sensor circuit indicates system always lean, that would make sence why my gas milage is soo bad, right. and 23 throttle positioner sensor out of self-test range, whats that mean?

 

sounds like 23 means your TPS needs to be replaced.

 

yeah thats what i was thinking since it gave me 63 as well when i tested it today, so i'm thinking that may be the problem, since when i looked it up it said some symptoms wer rough idle, stalling, (which it almost did) and acceleration problems, all of which i have, and it gave me 41 again so i'm getting a new O2 sensor, and 22 the manifold absolute pressure sensor also showed, which i read corresponds to the tps so hopefully just tghe tps needs replased.

 

well i just read even more and it also drastically reduces gas milage, so i'm def replacing it first and going from there

 

If you have a MAF unplug the MAF when it's acting up. If it runs better, it could be a bad or dirty MAF.

 

yeah my truck aint equiped with a MAS, but the symptoms of a throttle position sensor going bad are all the issues i have had, kicking while driving, stalling, (which it will doo sometimes when i'm backing up or pulling out even thogh the clutch is in before it stalles or i gave it plenty of gass to pull out), rough or high idle, and trouble starting. And like i posted before, i got two codes for the TPS and i got code 41for the O2 sensor so i'm replacing that too while i'm at it

 

Test the TPS before you just go buy one (even tho they are cheap).

*i also had to cut the bolts that came with the new TPS cause they were to long. i stripped the old one getting it out.

 

Alright, how do test it then? And are they somehting that need replaced routinely like O2 sensors?

 

I think this is what i used.

I didn't bother with modifying the mounting holes...tho I probably should.
"The exact voltage you get at any one point is not of major concern; instead you need to watch for a smooth increase in voltage as the throttle is moved"----is the key.
Mine was spiking and had a dead zone so I knew it was bad.


*I'm always reading about someone's TPS going bad.

 

yeah, its bad, and i'm replacing it now, though it is going to be a *****

 

Just have a question to ask, im trying to get codes out of my 93'.
When you did yours did the fuel pump stop running? mine wont, and I cannt get any codes?
aloha, docmott

 

Did you get it replaced? If so did that fix your problem?

 

well when i pulled my codes obviously the pump turns on since you put key in the on posision, and when you hook the scanner up si should just restart it to make sure i runs, and then the relays flip as well, how are you doing it, because if anything all the least you will deffiatly get code 11 which is a system clear, and if you get that and the problem persist than its somthing not controoled by the computer, if you don't get anything then your doing somthing wrong, make sure the engine is warmend up ( idk why in the hell it should matter if the engine is warm or not but it does) and plug the scannner in berfore you turn the key and have the test switch in the hold position and you want the audo off for now since its really annoying, then turn the key on but engine off, and go flip the test switch on the stester to the test posision, the solid light should go off and you will hear fuel pump and all kinds of realys work, and it goes through and checks them. hope i coulod help if you didn't already figure it out.

 

thanks, i've done this a few times now and all the same result. 0 i youtube it and watched how to do it and a few guys here have sent info. so im sure im doing it right. after its jumped i turn on the key, the pump runs no real noise in the relays, eng light is on and it just stays like that????
i took the brain box out yesterday and it had some questionable looking discoloring around a large chip?? i'll post a pic. i'm wondering now if it in some kind of just keep it running mode?? i did find a few tricks on gettn that thing out.
thanks again, aloha, docmott

 

hey docmott, did you get you truck squared away yet?

 

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
http://freeautomechanic.com/diagnostictroblecodes7.html
http://www.fordf150.net/howto/eecivcodes.php
http://www.fordf150.net/howto/eecvcodes.php

Maybe this will help. Save this to your favs. Good luck.(also look for a vacuum lk. That will throw a lean code for the O2 sensors)