custom front drive shaft
#52
http://highangledriveline.com/
#53
out here if you dont have wheel speed, your stuck. wheel speed = rpms, rpms = faster spinning driveshaft which means more vibrations from a square shaft.
either way like i said before LINKED suspension properly done will not need these insanely long expandable driveshafts!
#54
maybe not cast,i would say by the way the weld looks he might have got it to hot by staying in the same spot to long,like not allowing it to cool properly before making another pass,or cooling it with water while it is still hot after the first pass i have seen it happen just that way,it makes the metal brittle not tempered,to properly temper a peace of steel you need to heat it first to 1400 degrees let it cool on it's own heat it agin then cool it with water and repeat once more,if you cool it with water after the first heating it will make the steel brittle.
#55
Better off calling Jess at high angle driveline. If you can think of it he can build it.
http://highangledriveline.com/
http://highangledriveline.com/
#56
because square shafts are homebrew tech, driveline shops have lots of expensive equipment to build round tube shafts that can be balanced.
#57
You need to get a better fit between those two square tubes also. It looks to me like there's some slack in there and you may be getting a shock load on the driveshaft as well. If there's not any slack or space between the two square pieces disregard what I'm saying, but that's what it looks like to me.
#58
#59
#60
So my Dad noticed the two pieces of the broken drive shaft and brought it up to me tonight when he got home. He said the u-joint end is probably made of a high-tempered alloy. He also noted as had I that most of the break occured in the weld, with one area that more of it broke off the u-joint and another spot where it broke off more of the steel tube. His solution is to use 309 or 310 (I believe those are the numbers he mentioned) stainless rod. He said its the 'all to end all fixes' when welding anything. Also, said as I thought: if it was cast the weld wouldn't have last but a second and all of the weld would have stayed on the steel tube.
We'll get to fixing it this weekend and I'll have updates following.
We'll get to fixing it this weekend and I'll have updates following.
#61
You need to get a better fit between those two square tubes also. It looks to me like there's some slack in there and you may be getting a shock load on the driveshaft as well. If there's not any slack or space between the two square pieces disregard what I'm saying, but that's what it looks like to me.
#64
So my Dad noticed the two pieces of the broken drive shaft and brought it up to me tonight when he got home. He said the u-joint end is probably made of a high-tempered alloy. He also noted as had I that most of the break occured in the weld, with one area that more of it broke off the u-joint and another spot where it broke off more of the steel tube. His solution is to use 309 or 310 (I believe those are the numbers he mentioned) stainless rod. He said its the 'all to end all fixes' when welding anything. Also, said as I thought: if it was cast the weld wouldn't have last but a second and all of the weld would have stayed on the steel tube.
We'll get to fixing it this weekend and I'll have updates following.
We'll get to fixing it this weekend and I'll have updates following.
#65
#66
hey kev hit up j.e.reel i told u before he makes **** crazy strong thick wall tubing the u joint will give out before the shaft and splines ever will downside is the price or just redo the square tube shafts strong and cheep u know where i go and actually wheel not like some web wheeler knowitalls and and the guys i roll with majority have spuare tube and have yet to see one with a problem and im gonna run one soon as soon as i get my duals in
all these are running square tube front and some rear ya they maybe toyotas but the crawl ratio they have put an insane amount of torque on these
all these are running square tube front and some rear ya they maybe toyotas but the crawl ratio they have put an insane amount of torque on these
Last edited by 84socal; 03-31-2008 at 11:00 PM.
#67
and the others have d shafts made by j.e.reel
they can custom make anything
http://www.reeldriveline.com/
they can custom make anything
http://www.reeldriveline.com/
#69
i dont see why everyone is so worried about the noise on the street its not guna be that bad and its not your truck. the thing if its built right will be strong as hell and it will be cheeper than buying a new one some people like my self just cant go and spend 450 bucks or more on a drive shaft.
#70
i dont see why everyone is so worried about the noise on the street its not guna be that bad and its not your truck. the thing if its built right will be strong as hell and it will be cheeper than buying a new one some people like my self just cant go and spend 450 bucks or more on a drive shaft.
#71
i dont see why everyone is so worried about the noise on the street its not guna be that bad and its not your truck. the thing if its built right will be strong as hell and it will be cheeper than buying a new one some people like my self just cant go and spend 450 bucks or more on a drive shaft.
and i think thats what happened to the front gears of my truck too...
unless its somehow balanced your going to be destroying bearings too if you go fast
#72
because it will rattle stuff like ring gear bolts loose, it happened to me in the rear because of the bent axle shaft
and i think thats what happened to the front gears of my truck too...
unless its somehow balanced your going to be destroying bearings too if you go fast
and i think thats what happened to the front gears of my truck too...
unless its somehow balanced your going to be destroying bearings too if you go fast
#74
#75
Update on the drive shaft..
Welded it up again (well my Dad, not myself) on Sunday with stainless rod. As you can see, my Dad is quite the welder
Also, a note on the slop in the fitment of the smaller tube into the larger half. I discussed it with my Dad and he suggested I expand the overall outside dimension of the smaller tube by attatching strips of 16, 18 or 20 guage sheet metal.
Welded it up again (well my Dad, not myself) on Sunday with stainless rod. As you can see, my Dad is quite the welder
Also, a note on the slop in the fitment of the smaller tube into the larger half. I discussed it with my Dad and he suggested I expand the overall outside dimension of the smaller tube by attatching strips of 16, 18 or 20 guage sheet metal.