I just bought a bronco II with a front and rear suspension lift from my buddy, but the front wheels have alot of positive camber because it has f150 springs in it. He said he did as much as could be done allignemnt wise but I would need drop brackets to get the wheels to not wear horribly.
I foud this on ebay, is it what I need?
83-97 Ford Ranger 4x4 - 4" Drop Radius Arm Brackets: eBay Motors (item 390235261415 end time Oct-05-10 07:48:42 PDT)

If not, what do I need, and where can I get it?
Thanks in advance.

 

thats just for the radius arms, you need the whole kit, which will drop the beams too

 

Yeah, I did some more research and figured that. I found a set of drop pivots on Ebay for under $200. How involved is putting in drop brackets? Is it something that can be done in a driveway with simple mechanichs tools?
I'm not a novice to working on cars, but the TTB front set up is new to me.

 

At minimum you need a angle grinder or cut off wheel of some sorts to cut out the rivets that hold the bracket for the passenger beam. An air chisel helps dramatically.

 

K, I've got an air hammer and a cutting wheel, and its only the passenfer side thats riveted? hmm, have to take a look at that.
What I'm more concerned about though is whats going to happen to the axle as soon as I unbolt it? Im guessing I'll have to have stands under the frame or it'll come crashing down right?

 

They aren't ridiculously heavy. Just put a jack under the beam with the differential, the passenger beam is fairly light weight. It helped to keep the springs attached so the beams don't drop completely. It also allows you to install the beams back into the new brackets.

 

Hmm, just looking at it is seems like as soon as you unbolt the axle from the pivot the spring would push it to the ground and the weight of the truck wouldn't ber held up... Is this not the case?

 

Uhh, you're working on jack stands on the frame right?

The springs are fully extended when your lift the truck, so there's no tension on them once you lift it and unbolt the shocks.

 

I see, thanks. I was having a hard time visualizing what would happen when the exle was unbolted. One last thing and I think I'll be good to go. Is it possable/better to do one at a time, or do both axles need to be unbolted before the new brackets are put in?
Sorry aboput all the questions, I just want to get the advice of experts so this goes as smoothly as possable..

 

If i recall correctly its alot easier to do both at once, I do have one suggestion though, Post pics of how your tires are sitting and your upper balljoints, like from looking down at them, I am curious to see if it has a camber/caster kit in it and you are spending more then you have to. just thinking the 500 for brackets/shocks vs 50 for camber kits might do the trick. unless your looking for more lift, f150 coils only add about 2 inches to the front iirc.

 

Will do. The brackets are only $200 for the set, but still not cheap. I'll see if I can get the camera to take a good pic of the upper balljoint from the top.

 

Here's a couple pics of the upper balljoint, and one of the camber.

 

You need to turn that camber bushing 180 degrees. It should pull it in a degree or so and help with your camber issues.

 

So it does have a camber kit in it? Am I still gonna need the brackets? 1 degree doesn't seem liek it would compensate enought.

 

yes and no, that is definatly alignable though, those to me look like they havent been touched in a long time, go to a reputable alignment shop and they will be able to align that, if you use drop brakets its going to be worse the other way unless you install a full lift with coils, so in other words, get an alignment and call er good if you dont want more height.

 

I'm low on $ now as it is. So your saying it should be allignable with just that kit it has? I'm just trying to get this straight..
I read F150 coild give these about 2" of lift, and really, for the ammount of offroading I do, that's enough. I have a set of new Goodyears to put on it but dont want to if the trucks just gonna eath through the outside edge..

 

It is definatly alignable the way it is, it has yet to be touched, take it in. There is two ways they are going to align it, they will either install full adjustable kits which usually cost about 25-30 a side, or they will just install the correct bushing which are usually about 10-15 each, It all depends who you take it to and what they use in their shop.

 

That's great news! I work at a Sears auto center so I'll probably have our guy take a look at it, he does exelent work! Can those kits be picked up at a parts store? If so I'd rather buy it myself and take it in, avoid paying markup on parts, especially since I work there!