Alternator went out last week changed it and idler pulley and dropped a new battery in it started drove it to the gas station and then it wouldn’t start again pulled the starter it was jammed in replaced it and now it’s acting like there’s no power to the starter I bypassed the clutch safety switch still nothing I have power throughout the vehicle also

 

Welcome to the forum

Could be a bad starter motor, "new" just means NEVER TESTED now-a-days

The starter motor has 2 wires, one larger from the battery, and one smaller wire on the "S" terminal, this activates the starter motor

In the engine fuse box is the Starter Relay, this relay should "click" when key is turned to START, this relay sends 12v on the smaller wire to starter motor activating it

You can get owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
Which has fuse box layouts

When you turn on the key, the "padlock" light should come on and then go off, if it starts to FLASH rapidly then the Anti-theft system has been activated and no crank, no start
If you leave the key on then after 45-60 seconds the rapid flash will stop and that light will flash a 2 digit code number, a 1 first then 1-9 second
This code number will tell you why anti-theft was activated

Have you tried to bump start it, push start?

The fact you put in a new engine and start motor jammed first time out may mean starter motor is out of alignment?

 

I didn’t put in the new engine I bought it with it already swapped about a month and a half ago and have had no issues until last week when the alternator went out they tested the starter in store when I bought it I checked the starter relay and it’s not blown
also I tried bump starting it with the old starter haven’t yet with the new starter due to its parked uphill at the bottom of our driveway

 

And no flashing anti-theft light?

Does the relay "click" when key is turned to START?
This means the 12v from the key is making it to that relay

There is a fuse in the cab fuse box, #21, 5amp, that's the START 12v that goes to the relay, check it

Also check Fuse #7 in engine fuse box, 40amp

If relay is "clicking" in START and starter motor is not activating then either the battery cable is bad or the starter motor is

 

Anti theft light is good I’m going to put a circuit test light on the relay

 

Ignore the labels, this drawing is just for pin/slot layout: https://www.delcity.net/images/output-for-a-relay.jpg

85 and 86 slots are what activate the relay
One is a Ground(from anti-theft)
Other is 12v(from key turned to START)

87A may or may not be there its not used in this application

30 and 87 are the contacts that close when relay is activated
One will have 12volts all the time(from fuse #7 in engine fuse box)
The other goes to starter motors "S" connection, sends the 12v from fuse #7 to starter motor to activate it

 

We were just checking this out today and I had no ground to any of relays so we jumped the ground off the starter relay to the chassis got to charge the battery and test it out tomorrow after I rebuild pretty much the entire front end of my Taurus 🤦🏻‍♂️😂 I also jumped the starter off the solenoid and heard the relay click before we found the grounding issue and the starter wound up but didn’t engage the flywheel ...it sounded kinda dead so I’m hoping with the battery charged up the starter will have enough power to disengage and kick out 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

I typed out a big long update last night but apparently forgot to post it lol anyways I tried jumping the starter yesterday and I heard a relay click and the starter spooled up and whines and either it didn’t disengage or it just didn’t kick out all the way and mesh with the flywheel I believe bc of the battery being drained so we tested the fuse box for voltage and continuity at the relays bc we wasn’t hearing them click appeared to be a ground so we jumped the ground off the relay to the chassis and turned the key and the relays clicked so I’m going to put the battery on a charge tonight and see if I can start her up