I’m going to try and make this as detailed as possible.
I have a 2005 ranger with the 2.3. It was givin to me and was not running. Was told it needed intake gasket and ran rough when parked 2 years ago. I went ahead and just bought a whole new intake and new gaskets. Still wouldn’t start. So I started pulling plugs and noticed oil in plug valley so I put new valve cover gasket on it as well. Also put new plugs and wires and coil just because. It started but smoked and ran really rough for maybe 30 seconds then died. Wouldn’t start back up. So I started checking everyone and plugs seemed carbon fouled just in that 30 second run. But still no start. Well I don’t know why but I thought maybe if I turned it over with the plugs out maybe it would help blow anything out that maybe was down in there. It started, obviously ran rough running on 3 cylinders but fired right up. Put the plug back in and wouldn’t start again. So I pulled plug back out and it started right up. Put it back in again and wouldn’t start. I tried this with each cylinder and it didn’t matter what plug I pulled as long as one was out it would start up. So I though maybe back pressure? Like the exhaust was clogged up? So I cut the exhaust at the CAT. Still wouldn’t start. I did compression test and each was around 150. Has good fuel pressure. So has new cam and crank sensors. I pulled intake and valve cover back off and all cakes seem to be moving freely and are surprisingly clean from the intake side at least. I’m at a loss here and have no idea what to do new. Don’t understand how it will run with only 3 plugs in but not all 4. Also, has a brand new battery and brand new starter so yes, it’s spinning over plenty fast enough. Any ideas or help or someone ever experienced this!?

Welcome to the forum

150psi is low for the 2.3l Duratec(170psi is expected), but NOT the reason for your symptoms, its high enough to start and if all were close to the same then it was a good test

Its a 4cyl engine so will have the firing order of 1 3 4 2
If uses Waste Spark coil pack so 1 and 4 share a coil in the coil pack and 2 and 3 share the other coil, 1/4 spark at the same time, and 2/3 spark at the same time, so one spark is "wasted" hence the name waste spark system, actually the very first spark system used and still used today on any single cylinder engine

So coil pack wiring is important, 1/4 on one side and 2/3 on the other side
Doesn't matter if its 4/1 or 1/4, as long as both are on the one coil in that coil pack
I think its
4 | 3
1 | 2
..^
3 wire connector

When you put the spark plug back in was it also connected to the coil pack or did you try it without connecting the spark plug to coil pack, and still got the No Start?


Lets do the 50/50 test but for a different reason
Pull out the fuel pump relay in the engine fuse box, this will cut off the fuel flow/pressure at the engine to see if engine is flooding out
Crank the engine over a few times to clear the fuel
You an get the 2005 Ranger Owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
Has the fuse and relay layouts

Remove the air filter's Air Tube at the engine/intake end
Have a spray bottle with gasoline in it or a can of Quick Start(ether), or Carb Cleaner
This is the 50/50 test
Open throttle manually and spray "fuel" into the engine
All spark plugs in
Try to start the engine
If should fire up, run and then die, runs out of fuel
If so have a helper start the engine while you spray fuel into the intake, throttle can be closed, it will suck in the fuel for idling
See if it idles OK while you are adding fuel manually, no misfires or other issues

If so then engine was flooding out, could be injectors or computer, why pulling a spark plug helped I couldn't say

If you don't have an OBD2 reader you can get a Bluetooth model for under $20
These work on ANY VEHICLE sold in the US or Canada since 1996, it is THE LAW, lol
The Computer may have some codes regarding spark or fuel or ???, that would narrow down possible issues

CEL(check engine light) should come on with key on, that means computer has booted up
CEL should go OFF as soon as engine is turning, that means computer is seeing a good timing pulse from Crank sensor

Thank for the response! I have actually tried every Scenario you mentioned. Wires are on correctly, have tried running it strictly off starter fluid, I’m getting the same results all times. I got this truck completely free other than fuel trailering it home. I think it’s just time to cut my losses and haul it to the scrap yard.

Try unplugging both 1/4 spark plug wires

Thinking PCM is firing both coils every 180deg
Last thing left is the PCM

I'd 100% take it for scrap prices TBH. It's hard to say what your issue is though