Changing Plugs, what a joke!
You do indeed have to remove the exaust manifold. I would suggest that you also replace the gasket before putting everything back together. In an effort to avoid this for as long as possible, I put in the best plugs money can buy. It really isn't as bad as it looks. If you need to, take photos as you remove everything so you can reverse engineer the project when you're done.
I know this is an old thread, but it helped me and I didn't want to start another thread when this one is good enough. Don't be afraid to change the plugs and wires yourself, takes awhile and you will bleed, but completely doable.
Replaced my plugs today. I'd suggest spraying them down with a penetration oil like PJ Blaster(sp) and letting them sit for awhile. Also use compressed air to blow all the crap away before you start taking the plugs out. Definitely use anti-seize on the threads and dielectic(sp) grease on the boots.
Wasn't fun doing, but once you start bleeding it all goes better for some reason. Didn't have to remove anything other then the air intake hose. It is possible to start all plugs by hand alone so you don't cross thread any.
1-4 on PS, self-explanitory.
1-2 on DS, straight forward also
3 on DS, left hand between engine and manifold. socket on swivel go through space on the manifold
4 on DS, left hand between engine and manifold (shoved all the way back) socket on swivel go just to the right of manifold, push hose out of way
1990 ranger 2.3l
*thanks everyone, I'm still here using the search function and getting stuff done!!
Replaced my plugs today. I'd suggest spraying them down with a penetration oil like PJ Blaster(sp) and letting them sit for awhile. Also use compressed air to blow all the crap away before you start taking the plugs out. Definitely use anti-seize on the threads and dielectic(sp) grease on the boots.
Wasn't fun doing, but once you start bleeding it all goes better for some reason. Didn't have to remove anything other then the air intake hose. It is possible to start all plugs by hand alone so you don't cross thread any.
1-4 on PS, self-explanitory.
1-2 on DS, straight forward also
3 on DS, left hand between engine and manifold. socket on swivel go through space on the manifold
4 on DS, left hand between engine and manifold (shoved all the way back) socket on swivel go just to the right of manifold, push hose out of way
1990 ranger 2.3l
*thanks everyone, I'm still here using the search function and getting stuff done!!
I did my 91 last month for the first time since I bought it 10 yrs ago, took me about an hour, I used a
12" extension, a 3/8 univ joint and extra long nose pliers (those helped alot!!) .I used Motorcraft sp-493 single platinum tip.
12" extension, a 3/8 univ joint and extra long nose pliers (those helped alot!!) .I used Motorcraft sp-493 single platinum tip.
Well my 3.0L is cake for changing the plugs! the only hard part is getting the right angle on the shock boots to pull them off. I got my plugs and wires changed in 30 minutes.
My old 2.8L on the other hand... PITA MSDLOHGSW:LKJGNSILYBFVSPALKDJBFVLSIRhbgvewrbvglsid bvlksdhbvliuABDl:ub!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! there was so many wires in the way and stuff... I don't know how it compares too your dual plug 2.3L but i hated it... Now with the duraspark its Cake too though...
Changed mine when I first got the truck, It took some doing but with the help of different combos of two extensions and two swivels I got it done.
Apparently the previous owner tried to change them but wasnt sucessful. I had 4 champion, 2 autolites and 2 motorcraft plugs in there before I replaced them all
Apparently the previous owner tried to change them but wasnt sucessful. I had 4 champion, 2 autolites and 2 motorcraft plugs in there before I replaced them all
you haven't changed the plugs on a 1991 2.3 for 10 years??? umm... a 1991 rangers plugs should be changed every 30,000 miles unlike rangers built after 2000 which SAY they can go 100,000 miles between tune ups.
In 10 years I had only put arround 20k miles before that who knows (school,city driving),obviously old plugs(copper) still looked good except for the gap. Platinum is the way to go, no more knocking.
Last edited by bp500; Jan 5, 2010 at 10:44 PM.
does anyone know which bank of plugs is the ones actually used for ignition? if you know which is the ignition then theoretically you only need to change that side. the other side is on the exhaust stroke for better emissions and generates no power so you really dont need to change them as often if even ever at all.
does anyone know which bank of plugs is the ones actually used for ignition? if you know which is the ignition then theoretically you only need to change that side. the other side is on the exhaust stroke for better emissions and generates no power so you really dont need to change them as often if even ever at all.
I took off the intake manifold on my 98 2.5L. What a pain! The bolts that connect the EGR kept cross threading when I put it back together and I wound up having to use a stack of washers to hold it tight.
Anyways, glad it's over with! I hope to God I don't have to change them again!!
I just bought a 93 ranger with 2.3 .If half the plugs are firing on the exhaust stroke for emissions...... Has anyone modded it so both plugs fired on the power stroke ? Might be as simple as changing the firing order . Nah! Can't be as simple as that.
Old thread, but I'll add my recent (still have scabs on my hands) experience:
Most of the right side are easy, as mentioned before, though #4 is pretty much blind. Use extensions. If you can get a straight shot with no swivel, do it without to minimize your chances of busting the insulator.
Left side is the bear, and I would assume these are the "money" plugs as far as which fire on the power stroke (though I have not consulted any technical literature to confirm this). Having the real Ford wires with the hand-holds helps tremendously. You will not get #4 wire back on unless your hands are the size of a baby's, so you will need help, which arrived for me in the form of 11" duck-bill pliers that were $8.99 at Northern Tool. Once I had those, the wire went on in under 10 minutes (spent 9 1/2 twisting the wire around to correctly orient it for the pliers). You have to go through the openings of the manifold.
I used two sockets: regular 5/8" deep and a "spark plug" socket. Use the spark plug socket for removal. For insertion, insert the plug only partially into the spark plug socket so that it doesn't grab too much (which will leave the socket behind on the plug when you try to remove!). Once you get the plug started, pull back to remove the special socket, switch to the regular deep socket and tighten.
Buy good plugs. I used Autolite double-platinum, which should last 100,000 miles. Spend the extra $15 on the set and change them half as much!
The gaps on my old, possibly original Motorcraft "plain" plugs were at least 0.070" Correct setting is 0.044". The truck runs a lot better now and I have no problem keeping it at 75 - 80 mph on the highway!
Most of the right side are easy, as mentioned before, though #4 is pretty much blind. Use extensions. If you can get a straight shot with no swivel, do it without to minimize your chances of busting the insulator.
Left side is the bear, and I would assume these are the "money" plugs as far as which fire on the power stroke (though I have not consulted any technical literature to confirm this). Having the real Ford wires with the hand-holds helps tremendously. You will not get #4 wire back on unless your hands are the size of a baby's, so you will need help, which arrived for me in the form of 11" duck-bill pliers that were $8.99 at Northern Tool. Once I had those, the wire went on in under 10 minutes (spent 9 1/2 twisting the wire around to correctly orient it for the pliers). You have to go through the openings of the manifold.
I used two sockets: regular 5/8" deep and a "spark plug" socket. Use the spark plug socket for removal. For insertion, insert the plug only partially into the spark plug socket so that it doesn't grab too much (which will leave the socket behind on the plug when you try to remove!). Once you get the plug started, pull back to remove the special socket, switch to the regular deep socket and tighten.
Buy good plugs. I used Autolite double-platinum, which should last 100,000 miles. Spend the extra $15 on the set and change them half as much!
The gaps on my old, possibly original Motorcraft "plain" plugs were at least 0.070" Correct setting is 0.044". The truck runs a lot better now and I have no problem keeping it at 75 - 80 mph on the highway!
Old thread, but I'll add my recent (still have scabs on my hands) experience:
Most of the right side are easy, as mentioned before, though #4 is pretty much blind. Use extensions. If you can get a straight shot with no swivel, do it without to minimize your chances of busting the insulator.
Left side is the bear, and I would assume these are the "money" plugs as far as which fire on the power stroke (though I have not consulted any technical literature to confirm this). Having the real Ford wires with the hand-holds helps tremendously. You will not get #4 wire back on unless your hands are the size of a baby's, so you will need help, which arrived for me in the form of 11" duck-bill pliers that were $8.99 at Northern Tool. Once I had those, the wire went on in under 10 minutes (spent 9 1/2 twisting the wire around to correctly orient it for the pliers). You have to go through the openings of the manifold.
I used two sockets: regular 5/8" deep and a "spark plug" socket. Use the spark plug socket for removal. For insertion, insert the plug only partially into the spark plug socket so that it doesn't grab too much (which will leave the socket behind on the plug when you try to remove!). Once you get the plug started, pull back to remove the special socket, switch to the regular deep socket and tighten.
Buy good plugs. I used Autolite double-platinum, which should last 100,000 miles. Spend the extra $15 on the set and change them half as much!
The gaps on my old, possibly original Motorcraft "plain" plugs were at least 0.070" Correct setting is 0.044". The truck runs a lot better now and I have no problem keeping it at 75 - 80 mph on the highway!
Most of the right side are easy, as mentioned before, though #4 is pretty much blind. Use extensions. If you can get a straight shot with no swivel, do it without to minimize your chances of busting the insulator.
Left side is the bear, and I would assume these are the "money" plugs as far as which fire on the power stroke (though I have not consulted any technical literature to confirm this). Having the real Ford wires with the hand-holds helps tremendously. You will not get #4 wire back on unless your hands are the size of a baby's, so you will need help, which arrived for me in the form of 11" duck-bill pliers that were $8.99 at Northern Tool. Once I had those, the wire went on in under 10 minutes (spent 9 1/2 twisting the wire around to correctly orient it for the pliers). You have to go through the openings of the manifold.
I used two sockets: regular 5/8" deep and a "spark plug" socket. Use the spark plug socket for removal. For insertion, insert the plug only partially into the spark plug socket so that it doesn't grab too much (which will leave the socket behind on the plug when you try to remove!). Once you get the plug started, pull back to remove the special socket, switch to the regular deep socket and tighten.
Buy good plugs. I used Autolite double-platinum, which should last 100,000 miles. Spend the extra $15 on the set and change them half as much!
The gaps on my old, possibly original Motorcraft "plain" plugs were at least 0.070" Correct setting is 0.044". The truck runs a lot better now and I have no problem keeping it at 75 - 80 mph on the highway!
and as far as results, I couldn't tell you. I only let it idle then I had to go some where and I put them back in fear that something might happen and I might get stuck while I needed to get things done.
p.s. sorry not trying to hijack
As far as double-platinum Motorcraft plugs - yes they exist. Go deeper than the google search that shows links from 2003.
All the mega-retailers have them.
It's not a horrible job IF you have the wires with the hand-holds AND a really long duck-nose pliers. Once I got the pliers, the job was a little over an hour and I'm not the fastest dude on the block.
Steve
All the mega-retailers have them.
It's not a horrible job IF you have the wires with the hand-holds AND a really long duck-nose pliers. Once I got the pliers, the job was a little over an hour and I'm not the fastest dude on the block.
Steve
Advance Auto Parts - didn't see any motorcraft double platinum
Autozone - After selecting my truck, said it only carries the finewire single platinum (just like my "unreliable" google results)
Don't know why people gotta be smart @$$e$ sometimes.
Could you point me to some of these double platinum motorcrafts, if they're in fact worth it over the finewire platinums?





its defenatly not as bad as it looks, but not having a/c also helped gave me more room.