So I bought a 1992 Ford Ranger 2.3l 4x2 and it was running pretty decent when I bought it. I didn’t really do anything to it for a week and when driving it, it just wanted to stall and sputtered. So after some days it would get worst and at idle it would shake. So I changed the IAC valve same thing. Then the spark plugs and same thing. I fixed the broken exhaust hose going to the intake box with tape (not too good) and same thing. The Truck Shakes at idle and when accelerating the truck tried to boggle down at turn off. I haven’t ran it far because I don’t want to be stranded. Anyone know what can help ?

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Welcome to the forum

2nd picture could be windshield washer fluid hose, but could be a vacuum line, where does the other end go?
Also lower down in the picture, next to the power brake booster hose it looks like another vacuum hose end just sitting there, just under throttle cable


1st picture, shows the Vacuum reservoir sitting on top of AC box, the tube with rounded ends
It doesn't do alot in 1992
The unconnected hose might be for vacuum source so was hooked to intake

There should be a vacuum diagram on rad support plate

Could you have gotten some "bad gas", i.e. did you notice the sudden running issue a day after getting gas
Bad gas has more water than usual, all gas has water in it, and water is heavier than gasoline, so when it sits in the tank when not driving around it settles to the bottom of the tank and fuel pump gets a big gulp of water at next start up and engine gets it, and running issues where there were none before

Vacuum leaks
After engine is warmed up and idling
Unplug the IAC Valve's 2 wire connector, valve will close
Engine should idle lower or die, either is good, it means no vacuum leaks
No change in idle means vacuum leak somewhere

1992 2.3l Lima engine has dual spark plugs for more power, so both spark plugs need to fire at the same time or no point in having dual spark plugs
1974 thru 1988 the 2.3l Lima ran just fine on 4 spark plugs, the extra 4 spark plugs were added in 1989 for extra power

But you can't tell if all 8 spark plugs are working, so you need to test that
There is a coil pack for each side of the engine
Exhaust side coil pack, primary
Intake side coil pack, secondary

Unplug the Intake coil packs 3 wire connector
Start engine
If there is a steady misfire, then at least 1 spark plug on the exhaust side in not working
REV engine, see if it clears up a bit, if not then bad plug or wire, most likely, but could be coil pack, test that later
Shut off engine

Plug back in intake side coil pack and unplug exhaust side, repeat test for intake side spark plugs
In 1992 the intake side coil pack may not work for start up, should but may not, Ford had an inhibitor for secondary coil pack because they thought the spark might be too weak for cold starts if both coils were active, it wasn't
So I think that was only used in 1989/90
If engine won't start then plug back in exhaust side coil pack, start engine, then unplug exhaust side coil pack again while engine is running to test intake side spark plugs

You can swap coil packs around to see if misfire stays with the coil pack or with the spark plugs
Watch the spark plug wiring on the coil pack, 1/4 are on one coil, and 2/3 are on the other coil in each coil pack, there are only 2 coil in each pack, not 4
The 3 wire connector divides the coil in half, picture here: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/P1gAA...pRt/s-l300.jpg
1 and 4 on one side, 2 and 3 on the other side
Can be 4 and 1, and 3 and 2, that doesn't matter, 1/4 spark at the same time, and then 2/3 spark, back and forth, so as long as 1 and 4 are on the same coil order on that coil doesn't matter

And you can drive the 2.3l around on just 4 spark plugs, will drive just fine, like a 1985 mustang with 2.3l, lol
But better with 8 spark plugs all working

1989 to 1994 2.3l uses an ICM(ignition control module) it runs the spark system, computer(PCM) runs the fuel injectors
ICM is on the front of lower intake behind the fan to keep it cool
ICMs were a known issue in these years

Generally they just cause rough running when they start to go out, but usually cold start is OK, but gets rough after warm up, the ICM gets hotter and starts to goof up

 

thank you sir, I will test out the solutions you provided me with. I do have a question. The exhaust is blowing white smoke and smells a bit odd. Not like too much gas but odd. Could it also be a bad head gasket causing the problem? Ps I will post the Photo you Said Go down on by tomorrow morning