2.3L & 2.5L I4 Tech General discussion of 2.3L and 2.5L I4 Ford Ranger engines.

Think the starter went up on me

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Old 12-22-2006
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Think the starter went up on me

Long time no post, but besides that...

I think the starter went out on me. Yesterday i ran it fine (after sitting for a few days), then a couple hours later i went to start it, only to hear one click. I tried jumping it, but that didnt do a thing. Could anyone tell me where it is located so maybe i can tap on it to get it running to the shop?
 
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Old 12-22-2006
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Won't necessarily help. If the starter itself is clicking, but not running, it's probably internal to the solenoid or brushes.

Try the old standard: bang on the starter with a hammer while somebody turns the key. Sometimes it frees up the stuck solenoid or brush and gets it going.

I have a 3.0, and the starter is on the drivers side, just aft of the motor, adjacent to the "bellhousing" which bridges the space between the transmission and engine.

My starter went bad recently acting very similarly and I replaced it after screwing up the job of rebuilding and re-installing the old one. There's a post on here about that.

Good luck.

You also have the option of push-starting it if you can get it out to where there's room and have help to do it. What you do is stick it in 3rd or 4th gear and get someone to push you. You have the clutch down while they do. Then when you get rolling good, the key should be in the "run" position and you pop the clutch. This often allows you to start the vehicle without a starter if you have a manual transmission. Doesn't work on auto's because you can't go fast enough easily to get the hydraulic pressure up.
 
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Old 12-22-2006
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Before pulling the starter( which I actually agree with you, I think it is the starter) pull the battery and bring it to either a local auto shop or batteries plus if you have one, and have them load test it.

if in fact it was the battery it would have been a lot of work for nothing when pulling the battery is easy as piecake.

I dont know what the temp is up there, but at 32 degrees the Cranking amps decrease by 100-150. If you batt is already on it's way out the extra strain of cold climate could be hurting you even more
 
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Old 12-22-2006
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No need to load test it. Just do this. Turn on your lights, try to start the vehicle. If the lights stay on it's not a battery problem, it's the starter or the wiring to it, switches, whatever.
 
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Old 12-22-2006
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Oh, i also forgot to mension, that the battery is only a couple months old.
 
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Old 12-22-2006
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I dont know how many amps the headlights draw, nor how many the truck actually needs to crank but the cold weather could be keeping just under what he needs...

that said, I dont really think it's a battery problem, but some times it's a lot less work to rule out the simpler more common problems first.

if the battery is only a couple months old then you should need to worry about that. Try what John said with the tapping to free up the solenoids and brushes
 
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Old 12-22-2006
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I don't know alot about vehicles, so i don't know where to tap or the locations of the starter, solenoids etc. If someone had a pic it would help out alot.

Also tried leaving the headlights on and they stayed on so it's not a battery problem.

Right now i don't have anyone to help me push it to get a jump start on it. It sucks too because i loaded up some stuff in the back of it to take to the dump :(
 
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Old 12-22-2006
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Originally Posted by KARPE
I dont know how many amps the headlights draw, nor how many the truck actually needs to crank but the cold weather could be keeping just under what he needs...
If the headlights don't dim out, there's no way the starter motor section is drawing significant current. A stalled starter that is connected to the battery draws hundreds of amps and the voltage drops massively.

The headlights aren't a "load" to test the battery (which is apparently what you misunderstood), they're a diagnostic indicator to see if the STARTER is loading the battery or not. If it isn't, it's defective or the wiring to it is.
 
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