Think the starter went up on me
#1
Think the starter went up on me
Long time no post, but besides that...
I think the starter went out on me. Yesterday i ran it fine (after sitting for a few days), then a couple hours later i went to start it, only to hear one click. I tried jumping it, but that didnt do a thing. Could anyone tell me where it is located so maybe i can tap on it to get it running to the shop?
I think the starter went out on me. Yesterday i ran it fine (after sitting for a few days), then a couple hours later i went to start it, only to hear one click. I tried jumping it, but that didnt do a thing. Could anyone tell me where it is located so maybe i can tap on it to get it running to the shop?
#2
Won't necessarily help. If the starter itself is clicking, but not running, it's probably internal to the solenoid or brushes.
Try the old standard: bang on the starter with a hammer while somebody turns the key. Sometimes it frees up the stuck solenoid or brush and gets it going.
I have a 3.0, and the starter is on the drivers side, just aft of the motor, adjacent to the "bellhousing" which bridges the space between the transmission and engine.
My starter went bad recently acting very similarly and I replaced it after screwing up the job of rebuilding and re-installing the old one. There's a post on here about that.
Good luck.
You also have the option of push-starting it if you can get it out to where there's room and have help to do it. What you do is stick it in 3rd or 4th gear and get someone to push you. You have the clutch down while they do. Then when you get rolling good, the key should be in the "run" position and you pop the clutch. This often allows you to start the vehicle without a starter if you have a manual transmission. Doesn't work on auto's because you can't go fast enough easily to get the hydraulic pressure up.
Try the old standard: bang on the starter with a hammer while somebody turns the key. Sometimes it frees up the stuck solenoid or brush and gets it going.
I have a 3.0, and the starter is on the drivers side, just aft of the motor, adjacent to the "bellhousing" which bridges the space between the transmission and engine.
My starter went bad recently acting very similarly and I replaced it after screwing up the job of rebuilding and re-installing the old one. There's a post on here about that.
Good luck.
You also have the option of push-starting it if you can get it out to where there's room and have help to do it. What you do is stick it in 3rd or 4th gear and get someone to push you. You have the clutch down while they do. Then when you get rolling good, the key should be in the "run" position and you pop the clutch. This often allows you to start the vehicle without a starter if you have a manual transmission. Doesn't work on auto's because you can't go fast enough easily to get the hydraulic pressure up.
#3
Before pulling the starter( which I actually agree with you, I think it is the starter) pull the battery and bring it to either a local auto shop or batteries plus if you have one, and have them load test it.
if in fact it was the battery it would have been a lot of work for nothing when pulling the battery is easy as piecake.
I dont know what the temp is up there, but at 32 degrees the Cranking amps decrease by 100-150. If you batt is already on it's way out the extra strain of cold climate could be hurting you even more
if in fact it was the battery it would have been a lot of work for nothing when pulling the battery is easy as piecake.
I dont know what the temp is up there, but at 32 degrees the Cranking amps decrease by 100-150. If you batt is already on it's way out the extra strain of cold climate could be hurting you even more
#4
#6
I dont know how many amps the headlights draw, nor how many the truck actually needs to crank but the cold weather could be keeping just under what he needs...
that said, I dont really think it's a battery problem, but some times it's a lot less work to rule out the simpler more common problems first.
if the battery is only a couple months old then you should need to worry about that. Try what John said with the tapping to free up the solenoids and brushes
that said, I dont really think it's a battery problem, but some times it's a lot less work to rule out the simpler more common problems first.
if the battery is only a couple months old then you should need to worry about that. Try what John said with the tapping to free up the solenoids and brushes
#7
I don't know alot about vehicles, so i don't know where to tap or the locations of the starter, solenoids etc. If someone had a pic it would help out alot.
Also tried leaving the headlights on and they stayed on so it's not a battery problem.
Right now i don't have anyone to help me push it to get a jump start on it. It sucks too because i loaded up some stuff in the back of it to take to the dump :(
Also tried leaving the headlights on and they stayed on so it's not a battery problem.
Right now i don't have anyone to help me push it to get a jump start on it. It sucks too because i loaded up some stuff in the back of it to take to the dump :(
#8
Originally Posted by KARPE
I dont know how many amps the headlights draw, nor how many the truck actually needs to crank but the cold weather could be keeping just under what he needs...
The headlights aren't a "load" to test the battery (which is apparently what you misunderstood), they're a diagnostic indicator to see if the STARTER is loading the battery or not. If it isn't, it's defective or the wiring to it is.
#9
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
first thing
do not bang on the starter with a hammer!!!
ford starters are "permanent magnet" type design and smacking it will break the magnets and for sure ruin it!
second, take a test light and probe the small trigger wire on the starter, the test light should light up when atempting to start the truck, next check the large power wire with test light, if both are good (lighting the test light) then you need a starter.
do not bang on the starter with a hammer!!!
ford starters are "permanent magnet" type design and smacking it will break the magnets and for sure ruin it!
second, take a test light and probe the small trigger wire on the starter, the test light should light up when atempting to start the truck, next check the large power wire with test light, if both are good (lighting the test light) then you need a starter.
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