search the internet. im not much into electricial stuff, but i'd try a multi meter and hook it to the ground wire. turn the motor over and look for continuity.

 

Okay, I think now we're zeroing in on the problem. First I'll address some of your questions. 1.) Could the GM PFI (port fuel injection) noid light not be working here? It's probably working fine. I just read an add for one that says it's used for several other applications, including Bosch, which is what the injectors for the Ford FI systems are. Also, I doubt GM runs their injectors on more than 12v (not including direct injection systems), which is what your hot wire should read. Have you confirmed they are 12v or do you only have a test light? The parts stores also loan out multimeters. You could test the noid light off your battery just to be sure it lights with 12v. 2.) Could you use the test light in place of the noid light? Yes. Just keep in mind that the wire in the harness for ground is only grounded when the PCM wants it to be (and it looks like this isn't happening). You might be able to put one pin of the noid light into the socket for the hot wire and then ground the other pin just to confirm that the light will go on if it gets grounded on that side.

From here on in we're into stuff I have no experience with. This is all info I have just from reading forum threads. Imagine every sentance begins with "I believe". Hopefully someone with more experience will join in. Your PCM should be behind the passenger kick panel. There's probably one big connector that plugs into it. TheRangerStation.com might have wiring diagrams that show which pins in the connector are for what. The case should be grounded to the truck body and one of the wires in the harness is also a ground. You've probably got a ground here because the PCM boots up and the ignition fires, but I would try to confirm there's a pin that goes to ground. You also could check for continuity between pins (or sockets) on the big plug and the ground wires for your injectors. If it uses SEFI it could be 6 different pins, one for each injector. Something else you can look for is open the case to the PCM and see if the board looks clean and the capacitors are soldered in okay. If your not aware of the capacitor problem, check out the videos on YouTube were people are replacing the leaky capacitors with good ones and fixing messed-up boards, just to get an idea of what your looking for.

 

I’m not much into electrical either, this is all out of my ballpark of mechanics lol but I tested the ground with the test light as well just hooked the test light to the positive side of the battery and pushed the test light into the ground side of the harness and I get no light on the test light. Unless the ground is only “active” when rolling the engine over or when it is running idk how this really works but with just Ignition on the ground side does not light up the test light

 

You won't expect it to show a connection to ground without the engine cranking over or running. It's a ground for the injector, but the path to ground is only complete when the PCM wants the injector to fire. Note the hot wire is always hot (with the key on?). If the "ground" wire always has a connection to the battery's minus terminal, the injector would constantly be open. The noid light exists because that's basically the only way to test if the "ground" ever gets a connection to ground. In your case the answer no, it doesn't. Consequently, the injectors never fire, hence the dry spark plugs, hence no start unless starter fluid is sprayed into the plenum.

 

Watched a couple of YouTube videos on 2000 Rangers last night and it looks like your PCM is under the hood, not behind the passanger kick panel. That should make it easier to test for continuity in the injector "ground" wires. I'm looking for one that shows how to do what you need to do next.
Second, do you have the TPS plugged in? You probably had to unplug it to get at the injector wires. Leaving it unplugged might send the PCM the same signal as wide open throttle, which I expect would stop the injectors from firing (the clear flood mode).

 

are you still using the PCM that originally was in the truck? the new motor, did it come with injectors? did you use your original wiring harness? yes it sounds like a fuel issue. im sure the noid light works so, is it new or from a parts house. if so have them test it. did you test it on different cylinders or just one? right now it is pointing to the PCM so is the PCM bad or does it need a good ground? look for a wiring diagram that has the PCM to see what wires go to the injectors. theres a chance that 1 or 2 could be shorted out but 6? i'd still do another 50/50 test, just see if the motor pops or tries to start. if it does that means that the crank sensor and cam sensor are sending signals to the PCM.

 

The ground wires from the injectors may have gotten cut but unlikely they're shorted to ground. That would cause the injectors to constantly run and flood the engine. I did a bunch of searching for an EEC-V wiring diagram for a 1998+ V6 and only found a cite where they want you to sign-up to read the document, and it was for 2006-2008. Still, it should be posible to identify the 6 pins on the connector.

A posibility is just that the PCM connectors are corroded and removing the engine caused a lot of pulling on the harness. Maybe just unplug the PCM connector(s), clean and plug back together will make a difference.

I've been wondering if EEC-V has a circuit that prevents tripping the transistors that let voltage flow to ground for the injectors, unless it senses something like a spinning crank or cam sensor or spark. But if it fires up and runs for a bit on starting fluid, all of that must be in good enough working order.

 

Here's a video on the injector circuit you may find helpful. Don't be confused by the way he's showing current flowing from the ground to the source. The electrons actually exit a battery from the negative termnal. It's just very common to talk about current the other way around.
There's a guy on YouTube called John McCurley who did three short videos putting an aftermarket tachometer in a 2000 ranger. The one that starts out talking about a green wire shows where the PCM is and the big connector with about 100 wires. That will have the ground wires from your injectors. Unplug it and you can test the wires from the connector pins or sockets. I expect you'll find 6 wires (SEFI) or 2 wires (batched MFI) that have continuity to the fuel injectors. Be sure you have the battery disconnected if you're playing with this, to protect the PCM circuits from current surges.
https://www.youtube.com/@imtheREALtexasranger

 

Finally back out in the garage, located pcm unplugged and opened it up after testing fuel injectors again. Everything looks good, no corrosion nothing looking burnt, sending computer out Wednesday to get it tested will post an update of what I find out. The pcm in the truck is YL5F-12A650-VA I called my local ford dealership and based off my vin she says the pcm should have part number F87Z-12A696-AA. When searching the YL5F pcm I come up with Mazda B3000 3.0 pcms which is essentially the same truck. The F87z search brings up seals for a pcm, not a pcm itself so that brings me some confusion.

 

you tested the injectors or the signal to them? im guessing no signal? look for a wiring diagram of the conection the the PCM. i'd test the wire from the PCM to the injector plug.

 

heres what i found.

 

So the six pins with function “Fuel injection #, control” should have no resistance to the side of the plug for the corresponding fuel injector that did not have 12v with the key ON. If the connection to there is broken, the PCM can’t fire the injector (by giving the circuit a path to ground) even if it is working fine. It’s not likely all six would have this problem, but you should rule this out. I think those tables are for a different year, so you may find yours is a little different.
Glad to hear you can get the PCM checked.

 

Any word on the condition of the PCM? It would be nice to identify the problem in this thread.

 

Still no news on the PCM, or anything else?

 

Okay sorry for no updates life has really gotten ahold of me, turns out I could not get the computer tested by itself I needed to have it in the truck in order to get it tested so I’m still up in the air on the pcm/ecm/ecu however or whatever you want to call it. I’m looking to buy a new one instead. I’ve called my local ford dealership they cannot get one, Napa can but I’m not sure if it’s the right one and I don’t want to throw another $300 into the air but will if I have to. So, the computer in the trucks “model number” is ML2-8E1A, the one Napa can get me is ML2-8E2, my question is does anyone know if it’ll work?😅

 

Look on line there’s quite a few that should have one you might have to do a little research, but they’re out there

 

Found one after doing some digging, have it ordered will update when it arrives and I try it out

 

I believe you have PATS. You’ll have to get your key matched to your ECU

 

I hope that gets the injectors squirting fuel and it at least runs like it initially did with the Amazon injectors. You may still have an issue with the NAPA fuel injectors not being right for a flex fuel. I can't help but think that you had a running 3.0 with that ECU before the engine lost compression in one cylinder. I'm trying to envision how the ECU could have been damaged.

 

New computer in same results. I fear it’s time to just take it to a garage as for chasing electrical problems I have no clue what I’m doing. Checked the fuel injector with a test light I’m getting the constant power but still no ground as the noid light did not flash while rolling the truck over.

 

Thamblin: Check this video out. A quick look on the OReilly's website says these diodes are only $4. Worth a try. Apparantly can cause this type of issue.

 

Thanks for the vid, was worth a shot lol tried a new relay today and still no firing from fuel injectors. I appreciate everyone’s help and input on this issue. If ever resolved will update with what was causing it

 

Did you try replacing the diode, or inspecting it? This should be different from the relay. When the relay clicks to let current flow through the PCM, the diode would only allow the current to flow one way (- to +).

 

Ahh replaced the relay instead and inspected diode, diode looked good but what’s another few dollars lol

 

Okay, update on the Ranger. Purchased a new battery and put stock computer back in. I actually have signal to the fuel injectors the noid light is showing them trying to fire while cranking engine over. The only thing I didn’t like is the light looked weak but was working. The truck sounds like it is rolling fine and does try to start at times but will not. I still have the Napa fuel injectors in so tomorrow I plan on putting stock fuel injectors back in and see if there is any difference, I rolled engine over by hand with a compression tester in cylinder one, found tdc and checked camshaft position sensor while on tdc with 0 timing mark right in front of the nipple or little pyramid looking thing on front of engine and the tab on the sensor is right in the center of the window so from my understanding it is timed correctly. Still stumped on why it is not firing up but wanted to post an update.