Hey group.
I am 16 first job, first truck. Bought a truck that needed a new transmission. I replaced it and drive it 3 or 4 months no problem. The other day went 30 minutes from home and heard a growl then was it would not go into gear. I could shift it. It had no hearts but 4th. We removed transmission. Same problem as when I first replaced. The too gears was stripped no teeth. What am I doing wrong? I all so replaced the clutch and pump, fly wheel and pressure plate on the first rebuild so it was all new.

 

Welcome to the forum

1991 Ranger

What engine?

1988 and up Rangers used the M5OD-R1 manual transmission, also called M5R1

What you are describing is a stripped INPUT Gear, and while not common it did happen in the M5R1's
These transmissions use ATF, yes, automatic transmission fluid, NOT GEAR OIL


The input gear drives the Counter shaft gears which is used for 1, 2, 3, 5, and Reverse, but not for 4th gear, which is a direct drive, 1:1 ratio with input shaft
This is why 4th gear still worked

Hard to say why you got two with the same problem, a used M5R1 is usually a pretty safe bet, they are very reliable transmissions...........if you use ATF not gear oil
I would pop the top on the next one and have a look or rebuild one of the ones you have now

 

Ron thanks for your help. The engine is a 3.0 6 cylinder standard. So you do not see in my description anything that I may have not checked that would cause it to mess up 2 transmissions?

 

No, nothing sticks out except correct transmission fluid, ATF Mercon V

Input shaft bearing failure can cause it but you have to bang on the input shaft pretty hard to start the ball rolling on that, I assume you didn't put pressure on the input shaft during installation, you didn't have to FORCE the bell housing on to the engine by tightening the bolts.
Transmissions, any of them, should slide onto the engine dowels and be flush, then you tighten ONE bolt to hold it then put the others on
At no time should you have to force a manual or automatic transmission(especially an automatic) on to an engine, if that happens then pull it off and have a look, something is very wrong

On manuals you should open the slave bleeder when installing transmission, can make it easier but not a problem if you don't

 

Hi

May I suggest you read your own post and correct this posting.

I am guessing you used a phone or tablet with auto correct to make this post since some of the wording just does not make any sense at all.

From what I can make out, you purchased a new to you Ford Ranger.

You installed a either rebuilt or used transmission ( please clarify )

You also installed new clutch parts great.

I also understand that the first transmission has some internal gears inside the transmission that were stripped out ( as you said they had no teeth remaining on them )

Now the second either rebuilt or used transmission has the same exact gears worn out.

If I am correct so far let me know.

Take pictures and post them here of the worn gears from the old transmission and the new to you transmission.

What fluid did you use in this new to you transmission? Did you use Gear oil or Mercon ATF ?

 

Ron
Man thanks.

 

You could also check flywheel/crank, long shot but since there were two similar transmission failures.....................??

Pilot bearing in the crank/flywheel is the end support for the transmission's input shaft.
If it had a wobble, not centered, it would cause an issue with the input shaft and input gear would start to wear out, 3 to 4 months maybe
Long shot but worth a look

 

 

 

whatever you tried to post did not come in correctly