98 ranger 3.0 has no get up and go at all
 

My 98 ranger 3.0 is an 4 speed automatic. But if you were standing beside it when I took off you would swear it was a standard. It sounds and feels like your riding the clutch when you take off. You have to stand on the accelerator with both feet to get it up to 70 no power at all

Welcome to the forum

Could be a few things
I assume the CEL(Check engine light) works?
Comes on with key on and then goes off when cranking engine over and it starts
And the CEL stays off when driving so no Trouble codes

With no codes that will mean it could be restricted air flow in or clogged exhaust system out
Possibly a failing torque converter, but OD OFF light on the dash should flash now and then

Check the air cleaner and the tube that comes into the air cleaner box from rad support, the cold air intake tube, make sure there are no "mouse houses"

Clogged exhaust is hard to test, you can do it with a vacuum gauge on the intake
Or pull out the 2 O2 sensors near the engine and go for a drive

I have put new plugs new wires new air filter no mouse nests in air intake tube I will try pulling the 2 o2 sensors but not sure where they are ?

someone told me that the cat conv may be stopped up.

This may help with the diagnosis I just had that motor put in the truck cause the original motor got hot and cracked the heads on it. The truck had been sitting for 4 or 5 years without being ran. The old motor didn’t have my power either. I was expecting when they changed the motor out that I would see a significant amount of difference in the power it would have. But nope still super sluggish. Any advice will be deeply appreciated !! Oh and thanks for the welcoming to the forum !!!

Yes, Cat converter and muffler are part of the exhaust system, so either one could break apart inside and restrict exhaust flow

Cold engine
Open the hood and look on passenger side of the engine for the exhaust manifold on that side, toward the rear it will have a pipe bolted to it, about 4"- 6" farther down you will see the Passenger side upstream O2 sensor, designation Bank 1 sensor 1

In the drivers side you will see the same setup, designation Bank 2 Sensor 1

If you remove both of these there would now be a hole on each side for the exhaust to escape easier, it will be loud, but its just a test to see if engine has more power
If so then Cats or muffler is clogged, usually Cats

Just asking, as I am learning.Why aren't we thinking this isn't tranny related?

I will try that this afternoon thanks for your help

it could possibly be the torque converter

Failing torque converter would, for sure, cause OD OFF light to flash and no mention of that

You could test it
Google: testing torque converter stall speed

Simple test

my truck doesn’t have an overdrive button to turn on and off. It has overdrive on the gear shift. 1st 2nd D and OD

Then its a custom setup or its NOT a 1998 Ranger
1994 was the last year with P R N OD D 2 1
1995 and up had P R N D 2 1

1994 and earlier, seen here: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/wXsAA...HRI/s-l640.jpg

1995 and up, seen here: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...0e3a49225.jpeg

They used different valve body but same transmission, 1986 to 1994 A4LD, 1995 and up 4R or 5R series

In either case you can do the stall speed test

I apologize your exactly right it’s a 1994 not a 98. I don’t know what the hell I was thinking but the title says 94 sorry bout that

also there is no tach to measure rpm with. But I can tell you it won’t even come close to spinning tires during that speed stall test. I didn’t get a chance today to take out those oxy sensors but I have put around 200 miles on it today. The gas mileage for the first 50 or 60 miles was horrible and sluggish. The rest of the trip has been sluggish but the gas mileage drastically improved

1994 adds alot more things to look at
You have an A4LD automatic transmission, last year for it

3.0l has a distributor in 1994, last year for it, and a TFI spark system
It needs to be timed with a timing light, SPOUT connector removed, base timing is 10 or 12deg BTDC, most prefer 12deg

1994 also runs 30-40psi fuel pressure with a fuel pressure regulator(FPR) on the engine
You need to check the FPR's vacuum line, see if it has gasoline in it
FPR looks like a small can, has the Return Fuel line and a vacuum hose connected, replace FPR if gasoline is found in vacuum hose

It won't spin the tires, especially if its having engine power issues, but engine WILL stop REVing up when torque converter starts to lock
So did it do that?

I don’t think it’s did cause it doesn’t rev up very high when in gear and pushing on brakes

plus it’s the second motor in it and it has all the same symptoms as the first almost exactly the same very sluggish j

I need clear up that it’s not a 98 it’s 94 ranger with a 3.0. I was wandering if anyone knows what would be the outcome if I take the cat converters off it. I loosened them and low and behold the dam thing will rev up and runs a lot cooler. I just didn’t know if it would cause other problems cause of sensors or Etc. Any advice is appreciated

In a 1994 there should be no O2 sensors after the Cats so they can be removed without any issue, as far as vehicle/computer is concerned

However its a Federal Law that requires Cat converter to be replaced if a vehicle came with them when new
There are no Cat converter police, lol, so unlikely it would be an issue, but Exhaust Shops may not want to work on it after Cats are removed, its a $25,000 fine for them to remove cats and not replace them or to work on a vehicle that has no Cats and should have

Many people remove the Cats then hollow them out and put them back in so it "looks like" Cats are there so no issues, unless you have to pass emissions testing
This can also be cheaper than buying new exhaust pipes and fittings

luckily I know a guy that has a muffler shop and will weld me a pipe back in it or whatever needs to be done. I was curious if the oxygen sensors are gonna be reading wrong without the cats in there? Anyways thanks for the info and advice

No, upstream O2s are all that a 1994 has and they won't care about Cats, or mufflers for that matter, lol

that’s great then off they go thanks for all your help and advice and info your like a encyclopedia for rangers !! Thanks again

Ranger???

Whats a Ranger?
I thought this was a Tacoma forum :biglaugh:

Tacoma hahaha !! Hey RonD I took the cat converter off and it runs a lot cooler. Still doesn’t go anywhere I swear it’s sounds and feels like I’m riding the clutch. Maybe it’s just the make and model but I would think a v6 would have more spunk to it then this one does. And it gets about 14 miles to the gallon which is awful for a 6 cylinder. I know you have gave me well more then my nickles worth of free advice and I appreciate it and value it. Just wandering what your take is on that. Thanks

MPG should be 18 or so, so something is wrong, a clogged Cat would do that

3.0l Vulcan is a high RPM engine BY DESIGN
Makes best torque/power at 3,700rpms
Most engines do that at 2,700rpm
So you really need to REV these engines, doesn't hurt them, in fact they always get carbon build up because people are always lugging them at 2,500 to 3,000rpm
"Drive it like a rented Mule", lol

Hard to do with an automatic but you can leave it in 2nd to get the RPMs up before shifting to drive
3.0l was much better in a manual