Camshaft position sensor
I bought the actual sensor from Ford _ it was about 60 or 70 bucks (Can dollar), can't quite remember.
They even let me take the tool home to check that the synchronizer was in the correct position- which it wasn't.
It's a pretty easy job, at least it was for me, some people found it difficult to get at it at the back of th engine.
Is it just your sensor that's shot or the whole synchronizer ?
What makes you think you need a new one ?
At any rate the Ford dealer itself should be able to give you a pretty accurate quote.
If all your replacing is the sensor and not the synchronizer, it's pretty easy to do your self.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...9-3-0v-114186/
They even let me take the tool home to check that the synchronizer was in the correct position- which it wasn't.
It's a pretty easy job, at least it was for me, some people found it difficult to get at it at the back of th engine.
Is it just your sensor that's shot or the whole synchronizer ?
What makes you think you need a new one ?
At any rate the Ford dealer itself should be able to give you a pretty accurate quote.
If all your replacing is the sensor and not the synchronizer, it's pretty easy to do your self.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...9-3-0v-114186/
Last edited by Jeff R 1; Nov 9, 2016 at 06:54 PM.
Get the Ford synchronizer, the roll pin is thicker then the Chinese one, the roll pin is the life line to the oil pump.
Don't scrimp.
And unless the thing is dry and squeaky, then I wouldn't touch it, but like I'm doing, squirt a bit of Tri-Flow in there to keep it lubricated.
The sensor itself, if it's not physically damaged from a worn out synchronizer, is probably fine too.
Sensors are usually the last thing to fail all on their own, if you want to do something, get some contact cleaner for the connection, that's what can go wrong.
You can clean your engine grounds too if you want.
Ford painted them green, which in my opinion was not a good thing to do, the green paint prevents a proper ground contact.
Dielectric grease can also be used on the grounds and sensor connections as well _ some use it and some don't.
You're in Courtenay, so lots of rain and humidity, it keeps out the dampness.
As far as I know that type of grease is made out of silicon so it doesn't oxidize, and that's the idea _ don't use Vaseline.
If you plan to replace it, and you want to do it yourself, post again, the link on how to replace it isn't quite right when it comes to TDC.
There is a post of mine I can dig out to find TDC, at least on my 3 litre it was not the same as the tutorial.
Don't scrimp.
And unless the thing is dry and squeaky, then I wouldn't touch it, but like I'm doing, squirt a bit of Tri-Flow in there to keep it lubricated.
The sensor itself, if it's not physically damaged from a worn out synchronizer, is probably fine too.
Sensors are usually the last thing to fail all on their own, if you want to do something, get some contact cleaner for the connection, that's what can go wrong.
You can clean your engine grounds too if you want.
Ford painted them green, which in my opinion was not a good thing to do, the green paint prevents a proper ground contact.
Dielectric grease can also be used on the grounds and sensor connections as well _ some use it and some don't.
You're in Courtenay, so lots of rain and humidity, it keeps out the dampness.
As far as I know that type of grease is made out of silicon so it doesn't oxidize, and that's the idea _ don't use Vaseline.
If you plan to replace it, and you want to do it yourself, post again, the link on how to replace it isn't quite right when it comes to TDC.
There is a post of mine I can dig out to find TDC, at least on my 3 litre it was not the same as the tutorial.
Last edited by Jeff R 1; Nov 10, 2016 at 02:46 AM.
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