Composite Intake Manifold Swap - Vacuum line questions and Rings vs. Plenum - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 09-16-2012
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Composite Intake Manifold Swap - Vacuum line questions and Rings vs. Plenum

I posted today on another Ranger forum looking for anyone who had done the cast iron manifold to composite swap and didn't get any replies. If anyone who has done the swap sees this, I have a couple questions.


First question is whether you used the Rubber Rings or a solid intake plenum on the manifold. I have purchased both, but only tried the rings so far. It seems the rings are allowing a small vacuum leak (I sprayed around with Parts cleaner on the inner side) and the leak causes the truck to pulse like it has a large camshaft at idle (clears up upon revving) and it occasionally misfired.

The second question is, which connections did you use for each Vacuum line and what modifications (if any) did you do? Since the coolant lines were just a send and return I had them connected to each other separate to the manifold.

My third question is what is the best way to reconnect my EGR valve. It is off by a few inches and I wanted to know whether I should try to run a custom pipe or if I should just delete it entirely.

Beyond that, I am using a 65mm throttle body with the combed spacer on the new manifold.

Any tips or suggestions on your own experiences with the swap are welcome. Thanks!
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Old 09-17-2012
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What year is your truck? I did this swap on my 99' earlier this year, search under my name and you'll find the thread.

I used the factory style o-rings on each the TB and UIM, both sealed great w/o any issues. I eliminated the EGR completely:EGR valve, tube, DPFE, and an EGR sensor at the back of the manifold are all eliminated.

As for the vacuum lines, I just moved them around to get the fitament I was looking for. All the lines I needed were there from the factory, the lines and connectors are in different spots now. For example the vacuum line to the FPR is now routed in front of the UIM rather than around the rear.
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Old 09-17-2012
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Originally Posted by Froggmann View Post
What year is your truck? I did this swap on my 99' earlier this year, search under my name and you'll find the thread.

I used the factory style o-rings on each the TB and UIM, both sealed great w/o any issues. I eliminated the EGR completely:EGR valve, tube, DPFE, and an EGR sensor at the back of the manifold are all eliminated.

As for the vacuum lines, I just moved them around to get the fitament I was looking for. All the lines I needed were there from the factory, the lines and connectors are in different spots now. For example the vacuum line to the FPR is now routed in front of the UIM rather than around the rear.
All my lines are now routed and I have no more open leaks as far as I can tell. Can you tell me how you deleted your EGR? I am assuming that extra sensor you got rid is the one with the two tubes running from the EGR pipe? Did you seal it up directly at the manifold with a large bolt? After the EGR, my only problem is finding out why my MAF sensor is shutting off the truck when I plug it in....
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Old 09-17-2012
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The DPFE is the one with the two lines from the EGR tube, that was eliminated. There's another sensor near the cam sync that has a couple vacuum lines going to it--one goes directly to the EGR valve--the other vacuum line goes somewhere (don't recall where off the top of my head). Unplug that sensor as well. I removed the EGR tube adapter from the exhaust manifold and slid a piece of round steel stock into it and welded it shut. Try to save the EGR tube if you can, they're worth a few $$.
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Old 09-17-2012
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Do you think removing those sensors might fix my MAF sensor issue? Also my truck is a 2001.

Last edited by blakplague; 09-17-2012 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 09-17-2012
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I doubt the MAF issue has anything to do with the 2 EGR related sensors.
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Old 09-18-2012
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Icon14

Thanks a lot for your input! I removed the sensors, unnecessary vacuum lines, put gasket material around my throttle body connections and sealed the EGR Tube / Opening, but I was still getting my MAF sensor problem. I was hearing a hiss whenever I started up the engine without the MAF and I finally traced it to the little chrome cap on top of the IAC. It must have been damaged or something because it was sucking in air from the sides. Well I covered in it rubber seal tape and the engine instantly smoothed out. I stopped the truck, plugged in the MAF, restarted, and the truck ran with NO problems. When I took it out for a test I had a lot more throttle response, acceleration, and power to the wheels. My only issue now is getting the slack out of the Cruise Control Cable. Again thanks for responding, I really appreciate it. I will post pictures when I get everything cleaned up this weekend.
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