So when changing oil today I noticed coolant on the pass side, below the alternator.

Searching it seems likely to be the timing cover gasket over the water pump.

How do I figure out which one it is?

If its just the pump, how much more work is it to get to the timing cover?

I replaced the radiator & hoses last year, don't see any wet around them.


Any tips on getting the fan out?
What special tools will I need? I have the basic sockets, wrenches, etc.

Good youtube videos?

 

There is a special tool to get the clutch fan off, here are some videos to look at.

https://www.google.ca/#q=Ford+ranger...bm=vid&spf=119

On my engine I just took the water pump off with everything still bolted on. I took a piece of angle iron to fit on the pulley bolts.
Put the angle iron in the vise and used a big wrench to remove the fan clutch _ it's left hand thread too.

Remove the shroud/rad to give your self room to work.
You will need a puller to get the harmonic dampener off.

Take pictures as to where all the bolts are, they're all different lengths and sizes.

Can't find the video _ another guy left the serpentine belt in place _ used a big crescent wrench with a pipe to extend the handle.
He the loaded the pipe and wacked it (about in the middle) with a big hammer, and it broke lose.

It sounds like the timing cover gasket has failed, I'll look tomorrow where the weep hole is in the pump, but in your case it does sound like the gasket has failed on the timing cover.
The coolant holes in the timing cover are well above the level of the pump, so if it's wet above the pump itself, just below the alternator, then I would say for sure that the timing gasket is gone.

Another guy here goes by the name of Ron, if he something to add, he will.
He's a wealth of information.

EDIT:
Also know that the oil pan gasket "seats" up against the bottom of the timing chain cover _ take care not do damage the oil pan gasket.
If someone has replaced the oil pan gasket some time in the past, chances are that they used a lot of silicon to hold in place.
So be prepared for that, the timing cover will be stuck in place pretty good with the silicon.

 

Thank you very much!

I believe it's the timing gasket also; even w/o washing it down to get a better look. Even if it's not, aparently its an issues with this engine & should be replaced. I mean if the water pump is going to get replaced, how many more steps is it to get the timing gasket off?

it's a 99 flex fuel, 164k, should I also replace the fan clutch, water pump, what else?

I'll have to look to see if there's a gap behind the nut; but I should be ale to rent a fan removal tool from autozone/oreillys you think?
I'll also need what kind of puller for the gear/tooth shaped thingy on the bottom? (which by the way has looked 'wet' for a long time, a year or more; but no obvious leaks, no puddles [other then the oil - real main seal?] so I didn't investigate further into it)

I"m guessing this is atleast a 6hr job by the mechanics hour book right? So a min of a $600 job in labor at a shop?

 

You're in the us, so you have more resources to rent tools then I do here in Canada.
However I think autozone/oreillys may have the tools, and the puller as well.
The puller is nothing special, I just used a cheap Chinese one that I had around the house, it's not on there very tight, but still tight enough where you can't just pull it of with your bare hands.
Be sure and use some sort of sealant on the end of the crank shaft end and woodruff key, if you don't, it will seep oil there.

The dampener is made out if aluminum, at least where the front seal comes in contact with it and wears badly, you may want to consider this kit.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....446380&jsn=664

There are different ones over at RockAuto, the one I got required a larger front seal, but that kit doesn't seem to be available anymore.
The link above says you can use an original seal... I would also use some permanent lock-tight to hold the new sleve in place as well.

How's you oil pan gasket, does it seem to be leaking ? You may want to consider replacing it, but it's a real "bear" to do while the engine is in place, but apparently it can be done.


I'll write more about the oil pan gasket if you want to take it on, post again and let me know.

Something like this for the dampener, Lisle used to be a good name, but I think it's Chinese _ soft steel, but good enough in this case _ cheap enough...

https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...er/A-p2918050e

 

OK, took some degreaser to it, pressure washed it, now I can't see anything leaking!

Good or bad? IDK, now i'm afraid it's leaking to the inside. Need to pay close attention to the oil level & color frequently!
I guess some good news, it only gets driven about 10mi/day! (700 mi since new years; last oil change)

What about those snake oil stop leak crap? I hate the thought of using stuff like that; but if it buys me a year it may be worth it (don't plan on long term use; get the kid through high school)

 

The cover is designed with a groove, so if it does leak on the inside of the block area, it's supposed just run out with out entering the actual timing chain area, but keep an eye on the oil just the same.

Leaky gaskets don't usually have catastrophic failures, so it may be OK if you just kept an eye on it.

If it was me, I'm OCD about things like this, I couldn't stand the leaking.
I like a spotless engine bay.

Snake oil stop leak stuff just gets in there and plugs your rad.

 

again huge thanks!
For now I'm gonna wait it out. It just needs to make it another school year!

So that's good news on the leak, I thougt I read different elsewhere; it'll leak into the oil, then oil & water don't mix = disaster.

The oil pan gasket is a thick light blue color. I can't really tell if it's leaking, it's coved in grease; from somewhere. It does leave a little line of oil behind everytime it's parked; somewhere close to the rear of the engine compartment. across the body direction (side to side not front to back) about 3" long 1/2" wide. I believe I read its the rear main seal, = more trouble/$ than worth to fix/replace it.


I wish I could have clean bay's; my 08 hybrid escape is clean; but my 00 expy is mostly clean, and the kid cars, this 99 & another 08 escape v6, are dirty. Bought the last 2 used, 125k+ on each when I got them; patched them up & kids have been driving them to school.

 

The 3 liter and probably the 4 too, have weak points where they leak when they're old, and yours (like mine) start to leak.
Front seal, rear seal, oil pan and timing cover gasket.

The valve cover gaskets can leak too, but they are easier to get at.

Others have problems with the lower and upper intake manifold gaskets.

The 3 litre Vulcan is a good reliable engine and is worth putting some time into.

 

Here's a photo of mine, the green arrow shows the channel if it develops a leak on the "block" side, it's supposed to flow into that channel and to the out side of the block.
I suppose the channel does get clocked with oil and dirt, so essentially the coolant could "wick" past the channel into the timing chain area.

The red arrow shows what happens to the cover, they corrode and pit in that area causing leaks.
Notice that the corrosion is on the outside so there is even less of a chance of coolant contaminating the oil.

I probably will replace mine because of that.
Most would just "goober" a lot of silicon on, but I hate doing that.

Now that you've cleaned you engine, it will be much easier to keep an eye on it.