Crank, No Start Condition
 

I have a 2000 Ranger (Belongs to the boy) - and it will cramk but will not start.

Checked for spark - check.
Checked fr Gas - check.
Checked MAF - check
Checked Neutral Switch - Seems OK.

I am at a loss - no blown fuses - I dont know where the next step to look.

Any suggestions?

Do the 50/50 test, that's the ONLY way you can test for fuel and spark reliably on any gasoline engine, from any year

Spray fuel(gas or ether) into intake
Crank engine
If it starts and dies you have a fuel delivery issue
If it doesn't start then its a spark issue
50/50 instant results

If this was a pre-2001 4cyl engine then could also be a broken timing belt, but assuming its a V6 because you posted in the 2.9l/3.0l forum

2000 3.0l has spark system in the computer and rarely fails
Crank sensors can fail but also rare
Make sure CEL(check engine light) comes on with key on, that means Computer is booting up(no computer = no start)
Then WATCH the CEL, when cranking it should go OFF, that means computer is getting a good timing pulse from crank sensor, so will start spark and fuel injectors

Yeah - it is a 3.0L v6. Sorry not to state that.

Well - I put some Carb cleaner down the throttle body and she ran for a good bit and died. So while it was getting gas, I don't think it was getting enough. So I have put money on a regulator and a fuel pump - in it goes in the morning.

In 1998 and up Ford changed Rangers to a single fuel line system, called Returnless(but still has a return hose just not at the engine end, lol)

So the fuel pressure regulator(FPR) and fuel pump are both inside the gas tank on the fuel pump assembly

Picture here: https://www.buyautoparts.com/data/al...2295M-Map1.jpg

Not yours but in the picture the fuel pump is at the bottom and the FPR is the round silver/black part about 1/2 way up

1998 and up Rangers run 55-65psi fuel pressure
1997 and older ran 30-35psi(just FYI)

Well I am getting 62 PSI pressure at the rail after putting in a new fuel pump and filter. Now that that is done, I tried to crank it and it is not starting but still turning over. I did shoot some ether in there - and now it seems that it is off either timing or something else - I am getting some pretty healthy spark out of the coil.

So they put a Crankshaft position sensor in before I got it - so I am thinking it might be that - I have spark, fuel, all the fuses are good, starter relay seems good, but now at a loss. I will go through and check vacuums, as well as IAC to see if that fixes them and see what happens.

You have spark when engine STARTS when you manually put fuel into the engine, i.e. 50/50 test
Up until that point there is no "usable" spark

If you "think" you have spark then only thing left that will cause No Fire is low compression
Engine needs above 100psi compression to get a spark plug to ignite fuel, most regular gas engines run 150-170psi

Never read about a 3.0l Vulcan slipping a timing chain, they don't even use a tensioner, but anything is possible, a woodruff key could have sheared on crank gear or cam gear, so you have low or no compression

But if engine doesn't start after manually adding fuel(50/50) there is either No Spark, or No Compression, thats all there is

Thanks Ron - as soon as I find my compression tester Ill go out and check.

Well I'm doing this with voice type so excuse me if it looks weird so high checked the compression in there all within AC145 to 150Well I'm doing this with voice type so excuse me if it looks weird so high checked the compression in there all within AC145 to 150 I want to check the crankshaft position sensor took it off make sure was clean and put it back on I put a new master flow sensor in and then make any difference I am still getting good gas still good in good spark I would not know if it was the camshaft position sensor or not but it seems to try to start and then that's it it will do 1 or 2 spits and sputters nanda quit

Ask check the check engine light and that goes off when it's trying to crank I thought it meant my band the sensor up front of the engine because the Rpm Gauge doesn't move

Not compression issue, good job, so for sure a spark or fuel issue
CEL going off when turning engine over means Crank sensor is working

So does engine still start when you add fuel manually?
50/50 test

If so unplug the TPS(throttle sensor) 3 wire sensor, it can disable fuel injectors if shorted, its not needed for startup

Well, after taking the plug off the TPS, I went and took them off one item at a time.

• TPS
• MAF
• IAC

And she still cranks - she don't start. I put more fuel down the throat - and still won't start now. Is it possible that there is a Ignition Selenoid or Relay I am missing? I have the book and it points to a Selenoid in one section for one year - and an relay for another but don't say which one it is.

2000 3.0l V6
Good compression
CEL goes off when cranking engine, so crank sensor sending a timing pulse

50/50 test, no start
So no spark since compression is good

On the coil pack there will be a 4 wire plug, unplug it and test the Red/light green stripe wire, should have 12volts with key on

There is a PCM relay, it powers up the PCM(computer), fuel injectors, fuel pump relay, several solenoids(EVAP, EGR)
But CEL wouldn't come on if this wasn't working
And PCM is turning on, PCM sparks the coil pack if coil pack has 12volts

There is no ignition relay or solenoid, Fuse 19 in cab powers up PCM relay which powers up most engine systems

Ok - as soon as it gets done raining - I will get out there with a test light and a voltmeter.

So while I am doing that - I am going to do a Radical Ignition Remove-a-switch-dectomy and a Inertia Remove-a-switch-dectomy.

When you have elimintated the improbable, what ever remains, however impossible must be the truth.

Here's what she does

If you have 12volts at the coil pack with key on, and a No Start when adding fuel manually, then PCM(computer) is most likely bad in a 1995 or up Ranger(spark control is inside the PCM)

Bad coil pack is unlikely, but not impossible because there are 3 separate coils in the pack, 1 failing would be reasonable, but engine would still start, 2 failing would be unusual but engine would still fire, maybe start, all 3 failing, at the same time, would be a unicorn, lol

So can a grab a PCM out of a 99 Ranger 4x4 and try it? I would assume as long as they are about the same. Or even a taurus - I have one out back too.

Yes, 1999 3.0l Ranger or 3.0l OHV Taurus should work for testing, but not sure on the Taurus coil pack layout, but should still fire 2 cylinders regardless, for 50/50 test

2WD or 4x4 doesn't matter to PCM, just transmission, but that won't effect startup

Taurus used 3.0l OHV, like Rangers or the 3.0l DOHC which would be different

I grabed the PCM out of the blue 4x4 no bueno. I went to the junkyard and got one out of a 2001 and she spits, sputters, bitches and moans and the PATS goes off so I think it is turning off the injectors. Shot some cleaner up in the throttle and it wants to start but then shutters and dies.

Yes, forgot about PATS so no they won't work to run the engine but engine SHOULD FIRE up when you do 50/50 test, PATS does NOT stop spark

Not sure if anyone mentioned already but also check the fuel cut off switch at the passenger side under in the under the dash inside the cabin on the back side of the firewall. its a little switch that shuts off the fuel incase bad accident but some of them get switched just from a slight bump... just push the button back down if its popped up and will start right up. I use mine as a kill switch

Well got angry and put a Ford Taurus motor in. Swapped ranger components and it fit right in.

Now the same problem. Cranks no start. Going back through PD process again.

Fuel pump works. Shoots gas through Schrader no problem. Got 55 psi.

Checked spark, registered no power at ignition block checked fuses. All good. Replaced all relays. Tested good.

Shoot brake clean in the hole and rins and dies. Taurus injectors worked when pulling engine.. started right up before pulling..

I am thinking a wire in the harness at the jumper block on the driver side of motor.. don't want to put the bed on until i get it running..

Ideas?? I'm stumped.

Oh and those transmission pan gaskets that come with the filter kit are useless as tits on a trout. Get the cork versions.

So to recap:

Checked and replaced fuel pump.
Checked and swapped ignition coils.
Checked and swapped spark plugs.
Checked and replaced spark plug wires
Checked all fuses.
Replaced Fuel Filter

Checked Voltage and Compression - AOK

Got angry - Took Vulcan out of running 2004 Taurus, swapped Engine was running out of the Taurus, second set of ranger intakes were used not the current one.

Got it all about buttoned up - tried to start it. Same issue. The only thing I havve not done with the PD is to check the Flex Fuel Module under the driver door.

What are the chances that there is a problem with one of the underseat or engine connectors? I had to jumper around one of the wires to get the truck to run correctly.

Do the 50/50 test......
If it starts then spark is OK<<<<ONLY WAY THERE IS TO TEST SPARK on Fords waste spark system
And fuel delivery is the problem

If it doesn't start then spark or compression is the problem

Do not over think this, no matter what "they" add to the outside of a gasoline engine it still just needs 3 things to start
Compression, above 120psi
Spark, at the right time
Gasoline, with air added

Do the 50/50 test and that will point you to where the problem is
Do not think about what you have done so far, just do the test and go from there