I'm having issues getting the old bolts out. One was 8mm, the other is either chewed up or smaller. Can anyone help verify the bolt sizes and basic replacement of the crankshaft position sensor

 

When you say bolts (plural), I'm going to assume you mean the two small bolts holding the actual sensor in place.

You can use 7/32 or a 5.5 mm socket.

There is only one bolt holding the actual synchronizer into the block, but I don't know what that size is off hand.
That bolt is at an angle, so keep that in mind.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...9-3-0v-114186/

 

Here is where it goes.. the guy i had working on it broke it.. the one bolt is an 8mm. But is that another bolt on there still? If not how do i get the broken pieces off to put on my new one

 

Here is the one he broke and the new one... any help is highly appreciated

 

My bad, CRANK SHAFT position sensor ! Sorry...

Steel into aluminum _ let me think about this.

 

yes, I was wondering what you meant by one bolt lol... thanks again for the help

 

The bit that's still in there on the left insets into the aluminum front cover.
It will come out if you can move it back and forth provide you can grab it with something.
Look at your new one, and turn it over.
You will see the part that's still in the timing cover.

The problem is that even after you get the broken bit out, the bolt does look like it's broken off.

If there is still enough left sticking out, you can take dremel tool cut off disk and make a cut into the bolt so you can get a flat blade screw driver on it.

With an MPS gas tourch, WD40 and lots patients, you may be able to get it out.
Spray WD40 on it and heat the area up from the back until the WD40 starts to bubble.

While it's still hot, work the bolt and forth.
If it starts to move, then keep adding heat and WD40, until it comes free.
Taping on the end with a very small hammer may help to loosen it up, but don't bang on it so much you chew it up even further.
A small blunt end punch may be better to use to tap on.

You'll have to do the same for the other side because it's so chewed up.

This will not be easy, you may even have to remove the rad and grill so you can get at things.

Worse case scenario is to remove the timing cover and deal with it that way and possibly replace the timing cover.

 

Another thought....
The other bolt that's still in tact....
Use the dremel to create two flat surfaces on the end where you can get a pair of small vice-grips on.
The vice grips will have to be in new condition _ not sloppy _ and so the jaws are nice and square, not rounded off from years of use.

 

Drilling out is nearly impossible because of the location too.
The drill will inevitably wonder into the soft aluminum and bugger things up.

It's critical that the sensor be mounted in the exact position for correct timing.

 

The protrusion arrowed in the photo is what's still left in the timing cover.
If you break away what's left of the old sensor, it should just twist out with a pair of plyers.