2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Dumped Flowmasters Installed...

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  #26  
Old 01-12-2008
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Ditto on the expanding - that is insane - why not use the right size pipe/muffler to start with??? That REALLY brings the competency factor down - I would be worried.

The muffler is not rubbing all the time, that is why you don't notice it, it is rubbing when the rear springs are compressed, and I'm sure there are plenty of other noises going on while you are playing "Dukes of Hazard" to cover up that slight rub. Either way - they need to fix that.

As far as not spending money trying to improve a 3.0L, that is probably the most ignorant post in this entire thread. Been there, done that, the 3.0L responds very well to minor mods.

For under $500, you will have a very responsive engine that retains its bone stock reliability - do not think for a second you will have the same reliability and power with a $500 V8 conversion - that's just not true.

Toss a tuner on there and you are still shy of $1000; now you have a decision to make if you desire more power: V8 or Forced Induction. That is more reasonable....
 
  #27  
Old 01-12-2008
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I'm glad for you, hope it works for you, but I'd get it checked out.
 
  #29  
Old 01-13-2008
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Originally Posted by zabeard
Out of the 3-4 mufflers I have had they all stand up right, to keep everything from rubbing.
x2! I made the mistake of having my mother bring my truck to the exhaust shop to get welded up....i was using those stainless band clamps from jegs before. Evidently the same shop that installed the exhaust, including muffler mounted vertical, this time they decided to weld it horizontal. Yes....it did rub the shaft, but only when flexing. It was one of those Super 40 5x10" cases too.


I do really dig your turndowns/dumps....ican't figure out a dual out setup for mine that i like...i think i'll probably go straight out the back, at the sides of the hitch, but end it early with dumps....barely visable.
 
  #30  
Old 01-13-2008
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i have a 3 inch in and 2.5 out but its dumped and i necked it down to 2 1/4 coming in...i dont have a problem with anything besides setting car alarms off
 
  #32  
Old 01-16-2008
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i got the adapaters from oriely that are jus necked down pieces of pipe and welded them up so my pipe size is 2.25 it jus has a bell shape end that goes to 3 inch and its welded to the muffler...the only 3 in part is maybe 4 inches long
 
  #34  
Old 01-17-2008
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you lost me...back pressure is fine...get better gas mileage with the flow then stock...jus now...well second gear is gone so it sucks once again
 
  #35  
Old 01-18-2008
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Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01
Yes....it did rub the shaft, but only when flexing.
Bahaha I'm sorry, but that just sounds so wrong lol.
 
  #36  
Old 01-18-2008
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Lol
 
  #37  
Old 01-19-2008
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Originally Posted by timpat92855
drive shafts are not cheap to replace
How much was yours?

I built mine using an aluminum one out of a Mark VIII. Ended up costing me $90 in total to have a 3lbs lighter aluminum one. I will probably spend $60 on making one for my 86 mustang from an aerostar d/s. Shortening/balancing is cheap where I live.

Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
lack of back pressure, even with a 4" pipe thats 3" ID
The real question is:

A 2 1/2" section of straight pipe flows 560cfm at 28" of water.

What do you think a 3" inlet flowmaster flows. I guarantee its less. I flowed a 2 1/2" 40 series and it only went ~345cfm @ 28" Thats like cutting out the 3" flowmaster and replacing it with a 2" pipe.
 
  #38  
Old 01-19-2008
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Oh man I was expecting flowmasters, not a flowmaster. jk

That's usually how they mount if you want a dumped SI/DO setup, dumped as in with turndows right after the muffler. I noticed that it rubbed sometimes on my ranger.
 
  #39  
Old 01-19-2008
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found a used stock shaft for free...but when i priced a stock replacment shaft it was right at 450 bucks...
 
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