Check out the video.
Engine runs like this when cold, then runs fine when warmed up.
Feels like it wants to shut down but then springs back to life…
It’s very odd

 

You don't mention a year, or if its a 2.9l or 3.0l?

But all gasoline engines need to be Choked when cold, fuel injection doesn't change that, just the method of Choking is different
Computer has a ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor to tell it the coolant temp on start up
If its under 140degF then computer applies Choke mode, and its more or less choke depending on the temp
More choke under 50degF, less above 70degF, no choke above 140degF

Choke for fuel injection means Richer air/fuel mix and higher idle, without this the engine will stumble and even stall when its cold, but run fine after warmed up
Normal cold start should have an idle of 1,000-1,200rpms, the colder the temp the higher the idle
Then as engine warms up idle RPMs slowly drop until warm engine idle is set, 650-700rpm with manual, 750-800 with automatic

If this is not happening then engine is most likely not being Choked like it should
ECT sensor could be the issue, its showing warmer temp so no choke, or not enough choke

Fuel injected Rangers have 2 temp devices on the engine until 2007
The 5 volt ECT sensor, has 2 wires, and is only used by the computer
The 12 volt Temp sender, has 1 wire usually, and is only used by dash board temp gauge

 

Thank you!
This sounds like it!.
its a 94 3.0

where is the 2 wire sensor located?
i changed out the sender previously anyways...

 

They are both located near each other at top front of the engine near thermostat housing, one is on the lower intake the other is on a pipe fitting elbow
Both seen here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ant-sensor.jpg

Red/white wire is the temp sender, will be 1 wire in 1994, the one you already changed
Other will have 2 wires, the ECT sensor

Bigger picture here: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...935a33310.jpeg

 

I think that definitely helped.
I bought and changed to a new sensor yesterday and then it ran well but was already pretty warmed up.
this morning I started it and it ran pretty good.

its still fluttered a few times…
not sure if the computer needs to reset maybe or if there could be something else causing this flickering

any other ideas?

 

When you change any sensor you should disconnect negative battery cable first, its a safety thing, but also this will cause computer to look for any changes when its booted up next time, "relearning mode", lol
Needs to be unhooked 5+ minutes, but 5 minimum

Computers have power 24/7 to hold learned memory

So when you do a cold start do you have the high idle?
And it lowers down as engine warns up

Without touching the gas pedal on any startup, cold or warm, there should be a high RPM, from IAC Valve being open all the way for start up
Then RPMs will drop to cold idle 1,000+, or warm idle 750, or anywhere in between based on coolant/engine temp
IAC Valve is what the computer uses to set throttle closed RPMs
But shouldn't cause stumbling, unless choke mode is not working when engine is cold, higher RPM cold means IAC Valve is working


1994 3.0l uses a distributor, so base spark timing must be set manually, when was the last time it was checked/set?

 

Good information, thank you.
last time I did timing was when I changed my head gasket.
will check it.
any tips on positioning?

 

3.0l should be 10deg BTDC at warm idle(650-750rpm) with SPOUT disconnected

If you rotate the crank so you can see the timing marks on the balancer, clean the marks off, and then you can put some white or yellow paint on balancer marks and then wipe it off with a rag, the paint will stay in the marks making them easier to see, also same for pointer if its dirty

 

I haven’t had the chance to check the timing yet but it doesn’t seem like that’s my issue.
now that I pulled the battery and replaced it after 5+ minutes, the issue seems to have worsened.
now it hesitates and stutters much more often until it’s warmed up