Engine Oil Flush - Milkshake after Cracked Heads
Engine Oil Flush - Milkshake after Cracked Heads
Looking for suggestions on what to do with flushing the bottom end of the engine from Milkshake Engine Oil...
Heads and above are currently off.
I've thought about letting it soak in ATF or Marvels Mystery Oil for a day or 2. Then Oil Change using cheapo, 0W-20 conventional oil until no more milkshake. Then put in the long term normal use full synthetic.
I think thats the correct route to take, but need some advice here..
Heads and above are currently off.
I've thought about letting it soak in ATF or Marvels Mystery Oil for a day or 2. Then Oil Change using cheapo, 0W-20 conventional oil until no more milkshake. Then put in the long term normal use full synthetic.
I think thats the correct route to take, but need some advice here..
You can remove the synchronizer and pump clean oil through as needed with out having to actually start the engine.
You will have to get an old 1/4 inch extension that you can cut the end off so it will fit into a hand drill.
Make sure and tape the socket onto the extension so it doesn't end up in the oil pan.
Once the synchronizer is out of the way, the drive shaft for the oil pump is exposed _ I can't remember what the size of the shaft is though.
I used this method to prime my engine after the rebuild.
You may not be able to get all the milky oil out of the lifters, so that's something there to consider.
You will have to get an old 1/4 inch extension that you can cut the end off so it will fit into a hand drill.
Make sure and tape the socket onto the extension so it doesn't end up in the oil pan.
Once the synchronizer is out of the way, the drive shaft for the oil pump is exposed _ I can't remember what the size of the shaft is though.
I used this method to prime my engine after the rebuild.
You may not be able to get all the milky oil out of the lifters, so that's something there to consider.
You can remove the synchronizer and pump clean oil through as needed with out having to actually start the engine.
You will have to get an old 1/4 inch extension that you can cut the end off so it will fit into a hand drill.
Make sure and tape the socket onto the extension so it doesn't end up in the oil pan.
Once the synchronizer is out of the way, the drive shaft for the oil pump is exposed _ I can't remember what the size of the shaft is though.
I used this method to prime my engine after the rebuild.
You will have to get an old 1/4 inch extension that you can cut the end off so it will fit into a hand drill.
Make sure and tape the socket onto the extension so it doesn't end up in the oil pan.
Once the synchronizer is out of the way, the drive shaft for the oil pump is exposed _ I can't remember what the size of the shaft is though.
I used this method to prime my engine after the rebuild.
You may not be able to get all the milky oil out of the lifters, so that's something there to consider.
I was able to find Peak Full Synthetic Engine Oil for $0.99 QT!
I ordered 20 qts, so well see if I actually get that many at that price. I figure that should be enough to fully flush the bottom end of the engine without using any additives.
Ill keep this thread updated...
I ordered 20 qts, so well see if I actually get that many at that price. I figure that should be enough to fully flush the bottom end of the engine without using any additives.
Ill keep this thread updated...
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oxchampion
4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech
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Nov 15, 2013 12:05 PM



