2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Engine Oil Flush - Milkshake after Cracked Heads

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 15, 2017
  #1  
loomdog32's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
From: Central CA
Engine Oil Flush - Milkshake after Cracked Heads

Looking for suggestions on what to do with flushing the bottom end of the engine from Milkshake Engine Oil...

Heads and above are currently off.

I've thought about letting it soak in ATF or Marvels Mystery Oil for a day or 2. Then Oil Change using cheapo, 0W-20 conventional oil until no more milkshake. Then put in the long term normal use full synthetic.

I think thats the correct route to take, but need some advice here..
 
Reply
Old Oct 15, 2017
  #2  
Jeff R 1's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 44
From: BC Canada
You can remove the synchronizer and pump clean oil through as needed with out having to actually start the engine.
You will have to get an old 1/4 inch extension that you can cut the end off so it will fit into a hand drill.
Make sure and tape the socket onto the extension so it doesn't end up in the oil pan.
Once the synchronizer is out of the way, the drive shaft for the oil pump is exposed _ I can't remember what the size of the shaft is though.

I used this method to prime my engine after the rebuild.

You may not be able to get all the milky oil out of the lifters, so that's something there to consider.
 
Reply
Old Oct 15, 2017
  #3  
loomdog32's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
From: Central CA
Originally Posted by Jeff R 1
You can remove the synchronizer and pump clean oil through as needed with out having to actually start the engine.
You will have to get an old 1/4 inch extension that you can cut the end off so it will fit into a hand drill.
Make sure and tape the socket onto the extension so it doesn't end up in the oil pan.
Once the synchronizer is out of the way, the drive shaft for the oil pump is exposed _ I can't remember what the size of the shaft is though.

I used this method to prime my engine after the rebuild.
Ill have to play with that route. Sounds better than letting detergent soak in the bottom end.

You may not be able to get all the milky oil out of the lifters, so that's something there to consider.
I'm back and forth on replacing them for that reason. Since they are accessible, it may be the best option.
 
Reply
Old Oct 16, 2017
  #4  
loomdog32's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
From: Central CA
I was able to find Peak Full Synthetic Engine Oil for $0.99 QT!

I ordered 20 qts, so well see if I actually get that many at that price. I figure that should be enough to fully flush the bottom end of the engine without using any additives.

Ill keep this thread updated...
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Redneckstone
Engine & Drivetrain
3
Jul 22, 2017 02:46 PM
oxchampion
4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech
10
Nov 15, 2013 12:05 PM
pjschwartz
Drivetrain Tech
6
Jun 2, 2011 05:05 PM
wtpbmx2003
4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech
7
May 19, 2008 12:08 AM




All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:55 PM.