Why pull the block? Just take off the head and check it.

 

the heads are brand new remans from rock auto, so the logical thing is block is not flat or bad/wrong head gasket

illogical thing but possible is bad or warped head

 

It's like Ron always says "new, but untested".

Maybe illogical, but quite probable, someone goofed when the head was resurfaced.
Maybe they didn't bother truing up the grinding/cutting wheel before machining the next head.
That or they just finished doing 20 heads and they didn't dress the cutting bit or stone.

I can't see them checking every head with a straight edge before it leaves the building.

What was the brand, Enginetech, Famous Brand ???

Unlikely the block is warped, but should be checked.
If cast iron blocks and cast iron heads warped at the same rate, they would match, it wouldn't leak.
It doesn't work that way though.
The head warps and the block stays flat and the gasket can't take up the space anymore.
That and the over heating causes the gasket to be crushed.

The more I think about this, the more it points to a defective and or poorly machined head.

 

Sucky story :(

I know it won't help the problem, but i would go ahead and shove a thermo in there so it runs as designed, it will help regulate the temp too, instead of letting it drop too low.

 

I think is Kobin's case it may be better to leave it out so when the coolant level drops around the thermostat and it closes, the flow will stop all together. (air pockets are created around the thermostat when an engine is losing coolant)
And you don't want that to happen.

At least with it out, the low coolant levels can flow as much as possible with out the thermostat in place.

 

That's a good thought, given the current way it's "working" :/

 

The leak is not huge.
He drives it a 100 miles everyday, so it has to go quite far before he's losing coolant to the point where it starts to run hot.
If something was cracked, he wouldn't get that far.
It's acting just like one of the machined surface is out of spec and the gasket just can't quite seal things in that area.

 

it dosn't over heat, just runs hotter than it should with no t stat. yesterday morning it was 65 out side and the truck ran at 160. yesterday afternoon it was 85 out side and the truck ran at 195. and every time i open the relief lever (after the drive) on the t stat cap it gurgles the over flow tank

 

The gurgling in the over flow tank is air entering or expanding hot coolant ?

Are you having to add coolant ?
If the plugs are being steamed cleaned, then it must be getting into the combustion chamber.
What happens when you DON'T release the valve, leave the truck cool down and then check the coolant level under the cap.
It should be right up full.

 

yes i have to add coolant about every two weeks. and yes on air entering overflow. almost like the cylinde isnt quite sealed right

thats what is so puzzeling jeff. always a gurgle when opening the lever. when i dont open the lever, nothing. takes about 2 weeks for the overflow to go dry. and the rad is always full unless the overflow is empty. its been cooler in the mornings now. so im loosing more now that i have the heater core hooked back up. but that is due to a bad heater core and controle valve, which are on the way from rock auto!

 

"almost like the cylinde isnt quite sealed right"

Exactly, it's a very small leak, just losing a little water in the combustion chamber(s).
It's not a big leak because the engine can still draw coolant from the overflow as the engine cools.
If it was big, it would draw air in through where the leak is and the coolant level in the over flow would remain the same.
In cases like that, you would have to keep toping up the rad itself.

The symptoms point to a poorly machined head where the gasket just can't quite make a good seal.
It sure seems that way.

 

or maybe just a defective felpro gasket? unlikely

 

im at work now with a tent set up! pulling the head and will take it to the machien shop first thing in the morning
and if i need to ill take the truck to let them look at lthe block in the truck!

 

A newly machined head should with in 1 to 2 though or even perfect.
4 thou is unacceptable and 5 thou will leak for sure.

Note that a human hair is around 4 thou. (point of reference)
How well do you know the machine shop, maybe if you leave a deposit of a 100 bucks, they will let you borrow their straight edge ?

The block on one side is measured along the top edge, bottom edge, down the middle and two on the diagonal.
Leave the new head gasket in it's package until your ready to install it.
Any piece of lint or debris will cause problems.
Don't wipe it off with a rag before installing the gasket.

 

Another question, through all of this, have you ever had new the head from Rock Auto on the drivers side, installed on the passengers side ?

 

nope, replaced drivers side head then tore down again and replaced pass side with another new head!

looks like im gona do another tear down for another head gasket. boss is getting mad at my truck! and he is paying for it this time. gona fix it on company time!

 

How did you get your boss to agree to that, is it some sort of company truck, or is it that you are just wearing it out, driving to work hundreds of miles a week ?

You convinced him that he owes you a favour ? :-)

 

nah its a small family owned company and they are nice like that. he needs me to have my truck because of travel. not unusual to drive 1500 miles in a week, and i have tools (mine and company)and materials in the back. im the rolling parts/tool truck. mobile mechanic for the company equipment. 3 crains, 3 off road forklifts, 6 man lifts and various other equipment

my boss is funny when he gets mad /adgitated. and right now he is mad at my truck!

 

Bad truck no cookies !!!

 

lol i know right