2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Help with red Vacuum lines

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Old 03-31-2018
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Help with red Vacuum lines


So does the vacuum line (top arrow) suppose to plug into a double connector at the bottom aarow? Right now there is only a single connector at the bottom arrow where one red line connects into. I have now idea where it is suppose to be. Thinking a mechanic was screwing with the previous owner. I got the truck cheep. Just want to fix it and keep the check engine light off. The red lines come from the EGR vacuum regulator and are traced to a round ball on the left of the engine. Thank you for the help.
 
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Old 03-31-2018
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Year? 3.0L? I'll see if I have a diagram on file.
 
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Old 03-31-2018
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Thank you. Sorry, should have posted that originally. its a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0. The red vacuum line connected at lower arrow in my original photo connects to the round thing in the photo below.
 
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Old 04-01-2018
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The solenoid by your coil pack is the EGR solenoid. One line should be going to the EGR and the other to the vacuum from intake manifold. The big black ball is vacuum storage for the vent system. You need to trace back the lines to verify where they lead to. It looks like someone did a hatchet job. Do you know what your trouble code is? The diagram may not be exact but it will give you a good idea. It is supposedly for a 2000 3.0L.
Help with red Vacuum lines-2000-ford-ranger-vacuum-diagram.jpeg
 

Last edited by Grumpa; 04-01-2018 at 04:03 AM. Reason: ETA
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Old 04-01-2018
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Thanks for your help. The trouble codes are P0174,P0306,P1506. I cleaned the IAC for the P1506 code and cleared the code so I have yet to find out if that code is resolved.
 
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Old 04-01-2018
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Depending on your mileage, you may have to get a new IAC if cleaning doesn't resolve that issue but, a vacuum leak, like the one you have, can cause idle problems as well as other conditions, such as a lean condition. When the engine thinks it's running lean it will try to compensate with more fuel. Resolving the vacuum leak may resolve the other issues, so that would be the first thing I would do.
 
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Old 04-01-2018
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Originally Posted by Grumpa
Year? 3.0L? I'll see if I have a diagram on file.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP GRUMPA! After looking and looking on where an extra vacuum hose would go, i peeked under the coil pack and found a vacuum line inlet for the hose to go. I about sh** myself. I have to remove the tape from the housing the hose was taped in. Once removed from the housing, i did a dry run to see if it would reach. I couldnt do it with the coil pack in place. So i quickly removed the coil pack out of the way and the hose plugged right into the fuel injector. I am so thankful to have found it. I was praying for help. My Easter prayer was heard. Even in California lol.

However, that was really really messed up of Midas - San Luis Obispo to have done that to that College kid I bought this thing from. The vacuum hose was deliberately removed from the fuel injector and taped into another housing as shown in the first picture of my post. Truck has been idling for 15 minutes now and it sounds waaaaaaaaaayyyyyyy better. I can tell there is no misfire just from the sound of the engine.
 
Attached Thumbnails Help with red Vacuum lines-20170729_161143.jpg   Help with red Vacuum lines-20170729_161237.jpg  
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Old 04-01-2018
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I said midas but it was Mineke. If you guys have any spare time feel free to leave them a horrible review. Im going to call them tomorrow and let them know they messed up.
 
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Old 09-09-2022
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Looks Like they pulled the old shy switcharoo on the college kid. This was completely unnecessary. They Basically disconnected the line from the main vac to the FPD ( the component on the fuel rail under your coil pack) and plugged it into line going back to the egr and thus you ended up with a loose red evac segment.

This was a bad play on the part of the person that did this job. Not to mention that the fact that the evac line routes underneath the coil pack helped in temporarily hiding the mickey mouse.
 
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