So I had the starter go out on my Ranger (to my surprise, it was actually the OEM Motorcraft starter). I removed it and got a new one from O'Reily's. Same part. Took it home, Mounted it and connected the power. Reconnected the negative battery cable. The truck started up, but here's where things went wrong.

After the engine started, it sounded like the Bendix didn't disengage all the way. I could hear the flywheel teeth and the Bendix teeth making contact. So I turned the truck off, took the starter back out and inspected. The two were indeed hitting one another as the flywheel was spinning. Just on the very edge. There doesn't appear to be any damage to either the Bendix or the flywheel, other than barely visible evidence of contact.

My question is, what am I doing wrong. It's almost like i'm not lining the starter up correct, but it's pretty straight forward, I have a Haynes manual for the truck and it doesn't indicate there is anything special that I need to do, but I can't figure out why it happened. I've got it mounted again, but I haven't hooked it up or anything like that, I wanted to consult here before I went any further because I don't want to damage anything. I also checked that plate that covers the flywheel, that sits in between the starter and the housing, its not bend out of shape. I really don't know what to check...

You guys have any suggestions?

 

Oh, I want to add that the Bendix is disengaging completely, as evidenced by the way the started looked when I removed it to inspect.

 

So I reinstalled the starter, and its the same thing, sounds like its no all the way disengaged. I'm at a loss, I can't find anything on Youtube or in the book that can explain whats going on. Someone suggested to measure the crankshaft runout, and and i've got an idea of what that means, but I'm not sure how replacing the starter would affect it. It was literally fine before the old one went out, and now it's definitely not right.

 

Google "Starter Shims". I've ran in to starter issues of that nature before, decades ago. lol

 

Its a fairly common problem with the 2.9l starter replacements, not sure if there is one "fix" for it, as it could be worn out ring gear or new starter gear issue

Check if there are different starter motors for your year for manual trans and automatic, not sure on 1990

Good thread to read through here: https://www.therangerstation.com/for...roblem.150592/

You can try thin washers between starter and bell housing, i.e. "shims"

Or replacement gear from 1990 escort starter, GUARANTEED PARTS SD386, $9

If you still have the old starter count the teeth or maybe use the old gear on the new starter, same wear pattern

 

Thanks guys. Shimming or using washers is kind of what I arrived at, I went back to the parts store to compare the gears and the teeth on this new bendix teeth stick out a little more. I've got a set of Doorman HELP 3/32" (2bolt for Ford) Starter Shims coming to Advance tomorrow. From the looks of the teeth impact marks, it wont take much. When I found the shims and would google "how to shim a starter" etc etc it was always about GM, so I wanted to check with you guys to make sure it wasn't unheard of as nothing I found using Google mentioned using them with Ford's.

The new Starter was manufactured by BBB Industries and on my paperwork they have 1800 number to speak with a certified technician about installation troubles but as my luck goes they are not opened on the weekend. I'll give that a call tomorrow as well just because.

I was stupid and didn't keep the core until the vehicle was actually working, and I think I made things harder for myself but you live and learn. After I get my shims tomorrow I'll report back just to complete the thread for archive purposes (maybe some other poor soul will be in my position one day and this might help lol).

 

Alright fella's so I picked up the Doorman HELP Starter Shim pack with a 2bolt shim and 3 bolt shim for Ford. It was a bit thicker than I thought it should be, but beggars can't be choosers so I got it. Get it home and take it out and I'll be damned the holes in the shim didn't line up correctly. So I repeated that step in the Ford repair manual where you cuss a lot, then I got my Drimel out and tried to expand the holes some and realized I had to take way too much metal off the make it work. So I went back to the cussing step. Then, I thought about what RonD said and I took the bolt up to a family owned auto parts store here in town that carries an assortment of bolts and washers and decided I was gonna try washers. Because that shim was thicker than I wanted it to be, I decided rather than getting ONE washer per bolt that was the same thickness, I would buy two washers, half the thickness, so I could adjust. It's a good thing. After looking at that Bendix again, it appeared I only needed to use one per bolt. So that's what I did. Needless to say, she left the driveway again. Thanks guys, my gut told me I needed to bring the housing out a little bit, but without finding any kind of anecdotes, or videos of anyone else doing it with Ford, I just wasn't sure if I'd create a bigger problem than I had.

Thanks again.

 

Good work

Thanks for posting the fix

I think there are a couple of things at work here

Age of course, newer parts may be OK, but not 1990 Ford spec, even current Ford/Motorcraft starters
The engine plate, between engine and bellhousing, auto and manual are different thicknesses and sometimes the plates are not put back on so not even there

 

Thanks! I did call BBB Industries and they said they do not include a shim with that model because 99 times out of 100 it isn't necessary and it just ends up being confusing. I agree with you though, 1990 was a long time ago, when these guys are reman'ing these things they're going for optimum compatibility, which probably explains the slightly off shim also. I think the hardest part was getting it back up where it belongs with the bolts and washers in place.

It required another set of hands. I had my fiance get down there with me and just kinda be my "starter support" so I could guide it in and make sure the washers stayed in place. Is there any kind of a product that provides a little tackiness so keeping washers, bolts and things in place so it is easier when doing procedures like that? I know I've read about some people using a bit of petroleum jelly to hold gaskets in place, but if I could have gummed that up just a little bit without hurting anything it would have been a bit easier. That starter is heavy SOB when your trying to do it on your back on the ground, I thought for sure I would going to crack my head, but thankfully that did not happen.

 

I use axle grease or RTV depending on use