O7 ranger 3.0 motor
when I push the clutch in the rpms won't drop. When I have the AC on it takes along time for the rpms to drop when shifting gears.

 

After 1995 most manual transmission vehicles were required to maintain higher RPMs when shifting or any time speedometer was above 5MPH, this lowers overall emissions, an idling engine is a big polluter, under 1,000rpm is when emissions get nasty.
AC on, boosts RPMs by 100rpms usually

This is all done by the computer
RPMs should hold while shifting from 5 to 10 seconds, then drop to above 5MPH idle, which could be 1,100-1,500rpms, below 5MPH it should drop again to lower RPMs, under 1,000

You can test for a vacuum leak to see if RPMs are higher than they should be
After engine is warmed up fully
Leave it idling, turn AC OFF, and open the hood
Unplug the 2 wire connector on IAC(idle air control) Valve, this valve is how computer sets RPMs
When IAC Valve is unplugged RPMs should drop to about 500 or so, engine may even stall, either is GOOD, no vacuum leaks.
If they stay high then you have a vacuum leak


There are sometimes software updates for some years, call or stop by Ford Dealer with your VIN number in hand, they can look it up and see if there is a newer software that lowers idle numbers in above conditions.
You do have to pay to have software updated if there is a newer version.

 

Thanks ronD.
I tried unplugging the ICV. My pick up idled down and didn't die. I checked ford for updates and there were none.

 

Too add to Ron's instructions.

My IAC (ICV) valve doesn't close all the way even when it's unplugged.
It closes enough where it drops the idle to around 600 to 500 rpm, but it doesn't stall.

The computer can close it enough to reach its target idle though.

I found I had to remove the valve entirely and block off the hole on the upper intake manifold side where the valve bolts on to do Ron's vacuum leak test.

With that blocked off totally the RPM's still may not drop, this is because it's still pulling air through the PVC valve.
If you remove the valve and block it off too, then then it should almost stall.

This assumes that no has adjusted the air control plate screw in the throttle body incorrectly.
That screw is not intended to adjust the idle, but to set the correct voltage for the throttle position sensor.

 

Hey Jeff R 1
I appreciate you sharing that information with me. I will try that and let you know what happened.
one other thing I noticed is when driving down the road in any gear if I go into neutral the rpms stay high.

 

Mine does too, until I come to a complete stop.
I think if you push the clutch in while in neutral and then let it out, it will eventually fall back to normal, or at least slow a bit.

It's a little annoying coming from a "carbed" truck where I'm used to having the engine slow me down, now I have to use the brake, and once the truck slows, the RPM's fall.

Note too that it can take a good 5 seconds for the rpm to drop.
I don't think mine takes longer then that _ generally speaking.

If I come up to a red light really fast and the rpm's are still at 2500 in over drive, and I come to a sudden stop, the truck will hold it there at 2500 rpms.
That's annoying too, but there isn't anything I can do about it.
This happens when I come up to a stale green light and I don't make it and I have to stop.