A New Oil Leak
#26
Yeah, OK dad, next time... He he !
You should have seen how much sealant there was on the old gasket, the mechanic I bought the truck from just Goobered it on there, the crank seal too !
He did that when he put the new clutch in, the original gasket from 99 was leaking off course.
When I spoke to Fel-Pro, they didn't even want me to use gasket adhesive, although I may have to, too keep it in place _ the engine is now crank side down of course.
Fel-Pro supplies these small plastic hangers to hold the gasket in place while the pan is mated up _ I have 8 of them, so we'll see how that goes.
There are areas where some RTV is needed, the front timing cover is out about 5 though, it isn't flush with the block.
Also where the gasket has to seat properly into the corners of the rear main bearing cap _ just a very small amount.
Still waiting on the Speedi-Sleeve from SKF, should be here next week.
What a PITA to get one of those _ no stock in Canada and no one wants to ship one.
Had to have it sent to a third party address I have in California.
My local SKF distributor could have gotten one, but it would have been 80 bucks and I still would have had to wait 2 or more weeks.
One would think Canada was on the moon or some sort of disease.
You should have seen how much sealant there was on the old gasket, the mechanic I bought the truck from just Goobered it on there, the crank seal too !
He did that when he put the new clutch in, the original gasket from 99 was leaking off course.
When I spoke to Fel-Pro, they didn't even want me to use gasket adhesive, although I may have to, too keep it in place _ the engine is now crank side down of course.
Fel-Pro supplies these small plastic hangers to hold the gasket in place while the pan is mated up _ I have 8 of them, so we'll see how that goes.
There are areas where some RTV is needed, the front timing cover is out about 5 though, it isn't flush with the block.
Also where the gasket has to seat properly into the corners of the rear main bearing cap _ just a very small amount.
Still waiting on the Speedi-Sleeve from SKF, should be here next week.
What a PITA to get one of those _ no stock in Canada and no one wants to ship one.
Had to have it sent to a third party address I have in California.
My local SKF distributor could have gotten one, but it would have been 80 bucks and I still would have had to wait 2 or more weeks.
One would think Canada was on the moon or some sort of disease.
#30
Well, here we go again, the new Teflon crank seal is now starting to leak.
This after pressing on a SKF Speedi-Sleeve and being extremely carful to prep the installation.
No oil on the crank or seal...
Put the new seal in place "dry" _ rotate the crank at least 4 times to embed the Teflon in the metal _ leave it sit for at least 24 hours and you should be good to go _ not !
And from what I've read, the leak will only get worse, once the oil has contaminated the Teflon seal, it goes down hill very fast.
I just don't understand what's going on here, I'm about ready to drive it off a cliff.
The thought of having to pull the trans again...!!!
None of this should be happening.
Not even all those finicky British cars that I've worked on over the years have had this very annoying problem !
And I'm still not entirely sure why the garter spring came off the first time around.
This after pressing on a SKF Speedi-Sleeve and being extremely carful to prep the installation.
No oil on the crank or seal...
Put the new seal in place "dry" _ rotate the crank at least 4 times to embed the Teflon in the metal _ leave it sit for at least 24 hours and you should be good to go _ not !
And from what I've read, the leak will only get worse, once the oil has contaminated the Teflon seal, it goes down hill very fast.
I just don't understand what's going on here, I'm about ready to drive it off a cliff.
The thought of having to pull the trans again...!!!
None of this should be happening.
Not even all those finicky British cars that I've worked on over the years have had this very annoying problem !
And I'm still not entirely sure why the garter spring came off the first time around.
Last edited by Jeff R 1; 09-29-2017 at 12:54 AM.
#31
following this thread as i have a leak from the same location on my 3.slow, hoping you find a solution before i get the time to tear my engine apart and try to fix the leak on my truck.
the leak is major (or at least so you would think from the ground where i part, but i only need to add about a qt between oil changes)
the leak is major (or at least so you would think from the ground where i part, but i only need to add about a qt between oil changes)
#32
I just read thru this thread. Funny as the 2 gaskets from Fel Pro, Amazon says both fit the 91 3.0.
I got Fel Pro 30620R Oil Pan Set. According to the sticker on the box, it is for 90-01 VIN U, 93-98 Flex 1 , and 96-01 Flex 2.
I am worried that I may have the wrong gasket now.. Ill be keeping a close eye on this thread now. I still have a couple days before needing to put the gasket in place.
I got Fel Pro 30620R Oil Pan Set. According to the sticker on the box, it is for 90-01 VIN U, 93-98 Flex 1 , and 96-01 Flex 2.
I am worried that I may have the wrong gasket now.. Ill be keeping a close eye on this thread now. I still have a couple days before needing to put the gasket in place.
#33
That gasket is the blue one with the plastic alignment pins and will work.
I used the pins, but the threads were not formed properly, so I had to run a chaser nut over them to re-cut the threads.
They were so tight I couldn't get them in, and then I could barely get them out _ I thought they were going to break.
I know there were some changes made, I'll look for that info.
EDIT:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...3_0-build.html
So according to this, the blue will fit your 91.
I used the pins, but the threads were not formed properly, so I had to run a chaser nut over them to re-cut the threads.
They were so tight I couldn't get them in, and then I could barely get them out _ I thought they were going to break.
I know there were some changes made, I'll look for that info.
EDIT:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...3_0-build.html
So according to this, the blue will fit your 91.
Last edited by Jeff R 1; 09-29-2017 at 10:23 AM.
#36
Just came back from the Ford dealer and a well known and trusted transmission shop, no one has an explanation as to why the garter spring came off in the first place.
And at this point, I don't know why the new Teflon seal is leaking, although it's not that bad, but enough where I have to wipe things off every time I drive it.
Chuck at my machine shop doesn't think too much of the new Teflon seals on older engines.
Personally I think it's a design flaw in the engine, the seal is so close to the big end main bearing it's slathered in oil _ and the seal itself is too small.
It's too close to the oil pump too.
I'm thinking when it's revved up to 4000 and a beyond that the area was inundated with oil and that may have caused the garter spring to come off.
That could also explain why the Teflon seal is leaking, it was not designed to handle all that oil.
Probably the reason why Chuck thought it wasn't a good idea to use it on this engine.
If and or when I get in there, I'll come up with a baffle to keep the oil from the bearing leaching directly on the seal.
There are few posts when I do a Google search on other guys with this problem. I came across one where the guy had it off 6 bloody times, but there was no explanation what the problem was, or if it was eventually fixed.
And one other thing, Chuck said to drive the seal all the way home, past the chamfer on the block _ NOT FLUSH WITH THE BLOCK.
As long as it doesn't interfere with the crank.
And at this point, I don't know why the new Teflon seal is leaking, although it's not that bad, but enough where I have to wipe things off every time I drive it.
Chuck at my machine shop doesn't think too much of the new Teflon seals on older engines.
Personally I think it's a design flaw in the engine, the seal is so close to the big end main bearing it's slathered in oil _ and the seal itself is too small.
It's too close to the oil pump too.
I'm thinking when it's revved up to 4000 and a beyond that the area was inundated with oil and that may have caused the garter spring to come off.
That could also explain why the Teflon seal is leaking, it was not designed to handle all that oil.
Probably the reason why Chuck thought it wasn't a good idea to use it on this engine.
If and or when I get in there, I'll come up with a baffle to keep the oil from the bearing leaching directly on the seal.
There are few posts when I do a Google search on other guys with this problem. I came across one where the guy had it off 6 bloody times, but there was no explanation what the problem was, or if it was eventually fixed.
And one other thing, Chuck said to drive the seal all the way home, past the chamfer on the block _ NOT FLUSH WITH THE BLOCK.
As long as it doesn't interfere with the crank.
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