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Old 02-10-2014
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Oil leak?

So after washing the bottom of the motor with degreaser, I've noticed a small puddle of oil every time it sits for a few min.

It seems to be about dead center, center-rear of the engine. I can smell a light hit of burning oil when I get out after a short drive.

The exhaust crossover was caked pretty thick with grease before I cleaned it, not it still has some, but only about 25% of what was on there.

The puddle is the same size regardless if it sits for 10min or a week. (not running) it's not enough to show on the dip stick yet. I haven't let it sit & idle yet to see if the puddle gets larger. And waiting for the warmer weather this weekend to craw under and get a good look.

Just hoping you experienced owners/mechanics have some tips, like check here, or look there.
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Old 02-10-2014
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if its a 3.0 like your info says its probably rear main seal they are common on that motor. If its not showing on the dipstick let it ride mines been leaking for 5 years plus and it till doesn't consume any more than normal. I also run valvoline maxlife it has additives in it that are great for warn seals it helped min enough to where i no longer get puddles in the driveway just a light coating on the oil pan.
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Old 02-11-2014
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I thought for sure my main seal on my 3.0 was leaking. But when I went to change the oil I found the former owner had put in a longer FL 1A filter instead of the recomended FL-400S. i have seen posts on this or other forums saying it gives more filter area. With FL 1A you don't have room to get a wrench in, so it is up to your hand strength to get tight. The leak was gone with the right filter and torqued down tight.
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Old 02-11-2014
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I was always taught filter wrenches are only for removing oil filters if they seize up. Always just put them on hand tight and I've never had one leak.
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Old 02-11-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green99 View Post
I was always taught filter wrenches are only for removing oil filters if they seize up. Always just put them on hand tight and I've never had one leak.
I was taught the same; but I always take a wrench & give a small tweek because I know my strength isn't the same as those that do this daily (or my teacher)

I also run an oiled finger over the rubber gasket too.


I did let it idle today a few min, only saw 1-2 drips, no puddle. Forgot to stick my head under when I got back home & turned it off tho.

It's looking good for a warm weekend tho, will get my chance to do some work.

Oh and yes it's a 3.0FFV (I assume it's in my sig & I'm posting in the 3.0 sub forum right?)


Also my oil gauge doesn't move to normal until the temp gauge starts to warm up (~100-120F) then it pops into the middle. (I know it's just an idiot gauge; but could that be a factor in the leak?)

Last edited by 08hybridok; 02-11-2014 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 02-11-2014
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Hmm could be the sending unit for the gauge leaking then since its not recognizing the pressure? And yeah your in the right section just checking to be sure though!
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Old 02-11-2014
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My oil gauge worked that way before and after leak, truly an idiot gauge, working normal. i am going to change from sending switch to sending sensor unit
as has been recommended my many.
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Old 02-18-2014
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I suspect the rear main seal may be the culprit.

Not sure exactly where that is; but crawled under today, the 'wet' grimy gunky area was between the oil pan and bell housing (?). More so on the pass side then the drivers. I'm pretty sure the smell I get is from the dripping onto the exhaust pipe. it was coated pretty think with baked on grease, I scrapped some off; probably should have left it as it was probably acting as a heat shield from the fresh stuff.

Now that's its warmed up the spots are only dime sized. It's been about 600mi since the oil change and it's still right in the middle of the dip stick; so guess I should just live with it for now.

If I wanted to try a heavier oil, suggestions? It ranges from 0F to 113F here.
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Old 02-19-2014
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If it's leaking from the transmission bell housing and oil pan then your rear main seal is leaking. I had been leaking since the truck was new in 2000 and I just replaced it last year when my clutch went out. It won't hurt nothing to let it leak just keep an eye on the oil dipstick
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Old 02-19-2014
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Yeah its a pain gotta drop the trans and all. its at the back of the crank behind flywheel/flexplate Not sure if your auto or manual. So long as it doesn't start leaking super bad and your not adding oil all the time it should be fine. I had a friend recommend this seal repair additive. I absolutely hate the bars stuff with the gluey crap in it but this stuff has zero glue to plug up oil galleys its strictly seal conditioners so it should be safe. ill give it a shot and if it works ill let you know where to get some.

Last edited by pearlkid9988; 02-19-2014 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 07-02-2014
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I realize this is an older thread, but thought I'd post my experience with a recent rear engine seal leaking. I have a 2000 3.0, and the rear seal leaked. Engine has 214K miles on it, but must have had some work done to it from its previous 2 owners, because it runs great; just the rear seal leak. Not a lot, but about a 2 inch circle, when parked at the end of the day.

I changed the oil to valvoline MaxLife, plus one bottle of bars leak rear maine seal conditioner. After about two days of driving the truck back and forth to work, the leak stopped!

Before folks get all up in a roar, let me say that this stuff has no pellets (like their radiator stop leak), but rather its like a quart of oil, with special additives to soften the older seals. Its about 4 to 5 bucks, and is safe with any oils. It worked for me.

If I had the time to drop the driveshaft, the transmission, the transfer case (I have a 4x4) and then remove the torque converter and flexplate to replace the lousy 10 buck seal, I would. But took a chance with this stuff, and it worked.
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