https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...pFcUxCQllhWmxj

 

i might get the parts i need at a u-pull it, im tired of fighting the rust! and i live in a apartment complex that frowns on major auto repairs in the parkin spaces , so im doin this the clandestine way ! lol

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...twZlJIYlFZdW5J

the pic most requested

 

didnt have to pull the syncro (aka fake distributor)

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...9DUVhUNWxHQTBZ

 

Odd looking mint coloured build up in post 29 inside the water jacket.
There's the rest of the plug in post 28 !

Over-all the head doesn't look that bad though...

 

i didnt think so either jeff, the head gasket looked good as well. due to so many broken bolts an i already have the new head, i will replace it. and while i have it this far down i might as well replace the other head gasket to! lol

 

i will be doing a coolant flush /acid flush after i get it back together

 

it was running hot before this happened, everyone i talked to said head gaskets or water pump. so the only thing i havent took apart to inspect or replace is the radiator,cross my fingers this works, if it still runs hot im gona get a two row radiator!

 

When it was running and the engine was fully up to operating temp, did you put you hand on the rad and look for cold spots ?
Mine is partially blocked, but it isn't over heating.

I was looking at rads too, I couldn't find any two rows around.

 

i know that a two row radiator still dosnt answer why it was running hot to begin with, and i may never know, but this is my daily driver. its costing some major money not haveing it running. im loosing some serious overtime with it down! aka my construction toolbox on wheels!

 

yep sure did jeff. went so much as to put in a mech temp gauge and pulled the t stat. still ran ran hot on interstate at 75 mph w/ac on it would run 180-190

 

two row radiator

advance auto has one part # G1000277516VIS $275.00

my store says they can get it in two days

 

That doesn't seem that bad when you consider that boiling point is at 212.
That's around 90 Celsius. That's warm, but acceptable.

Mine barely gets into the bottom end of the gauge and stays there.

That little 3 litre engine is working pretty hard at that speed.
Plus its hauling around the weight of the 4X4 drive train, your tools, the load of the AC and I am assuming because the AC is on, it's pretty warm out.

What would you like it to run at ?

 

the only thing is jeff, it is running 190 with OUT a thermostat! imo i think without a thermostat it should max at 150-160. thats why ive been pulling parts and inspectin them before the plug blew out

 

Hot is hot, dude. It just takes longer for it to heat up. 190 is about right.

EDIT: when hot, mine runs between 186 and 192.

 

I am going to assume that you have ran it with a thermostat and it's about the same or worse ???

This is what I've been told about a system that is designed to run with a thermostat.
A thermostat provides some restriction in the system, even a fully opened one.
This restriction slows the flow of coolant down so it stays longer in the rad.
And because the coolant stays longer in the rad, but still flows, it has a chance to dissipate the heat more efficiently then a system with out a thermostat where it flows through too fast and doesn't have a chance to get rid of the heat.

So the theory goes.

 

^ Nice theory. Makes sense. +1

 

with thermostat it over heats. the only thing i haven't done now is change the radiator.
and in my experience it should run way cooler with out the thermostat

 

what temps are you seeing with the thermostat?

 

havent ran it the mechanical gauge, the dash gauge pegged and my scan tool was showing 220

 

Yeah, 220 is a bit excessive. Once the rust is resolved along with any other associated repairs, I would purchase a flush product, run that with water for a week, rinse the system out and then finally fill with 50/50 to kill any junk that may be there.

 

wow this lil engine just doesn't want to be fixed, got the head torqued as per the manual (nothing about torque to yield bolts for a 95)! now i have to replace the cam syncro, it is all chewed up, surprised there were no codes for it!

 

The defective cam syncro may be causing you over heating issues.

When I checked mine I didn't assume that it was in the correct position.
I bought a new sensor from Ford and they let me borrow their alignment tool and it was more then 90 degrees out to where it should have been.
You can get these cheap plastic ones that will do the job _ no need to spend 50 bucks on the OTC tool.
Number one is on compression at TDC with the tool in place...

Also, as I'm sure you may know, but I will mention it anyway.
I've discovered with this cooling system a nasty air lock develops right behind the thermostat when filling.
I have been holding the thermostat open with a screw driver and filling it there first until it just about over flows making sure the thermostat is totally immersed in coolant.
"Burb" the bottom hose to release any trapped air adding coolant as necessary to the thermostat area. (all this is done while holding it open with a screw driver with the heater control wide open)
Clamp the hose back in place and proceed to fill the rad as normal.

 

this caught my attention

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...9DUVhUNWxHQTBZ

this is what i found

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...hGcXhkdy1PT1Yw

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...laaEU2RlJnQ3A0

 

im pretty sure thats not what they sould look like, and ive found syncros from $30 to $250!