2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

seafoam

Old Mar 4, 2009
  #26  
StrangerRanger's Avatar
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Yes.

That and some squirts of MAF sensor cleaner can help clear some of that up.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009
  #27  
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MAF's all good.....actually that alone was an incredible improvement.

I imagine changing the oil/ filter is a good idea after this treatment?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009
  #28  
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Use CRC MAF cleaner...good stuff. Make sure you do quick sprays and not continuous.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bergs
MAF's all good.....actually that alone was an incredible improvement.

I imagine changing the oil/ filter is a good idea after this treatment?
For sure change that oil.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009
  #30  
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okay so i bought a bottle of this today and poured half into my oil and half into my gas, i wanted to do it into the intake but was unsure of how to do this. i will easily go buy another bottle if you guys think i should do it. and how soon should i change the oil? i see that its mentioned above that i should change it.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009
  #31  
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This is how I put mine in. Just put it in the funnel and then opened the valve just enough so it didn't stall the engine out. Super duper easy.

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Old Mar 5, 2009
  #32  
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okay ill have to take a look at that and go buy another bottle haha and if i remember right i think you said (or someone) said to put 1/3 of a bottle in there? and is this where it would smoke at when i put it in there? engine running or shut off? and slowly pour it in correct?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009
  #33  
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You have to put it with the engine running, I recommend get that same funnel I used, you can get it at Walmart for 3 bucks. Makes it much easier to see how much you put in. I used PM-3 instead of Seafoam (its the Ford version, must more potent) so I don't know how much to put in.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009
  #34  
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Dude with the funnel. PUT IT DOWN. Use a straw, you know, the bendy ones. Can will sit right down by itself next to the vc, just put the straw in the seafoam bottle and pinch it at the end that goes into your vac line, that way you can control how much goes into your engine.

And about the engine flush idea, after your seafoam your engine, put about 1qt of tranny fluid in your oil and run it for about 5 minutes. Youll be amazed how much nicer your engine runs after that.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2009
  #35  
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Hey buddy that funnel has a valve on it, you can turn the flow on and off.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009
  #36  
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okay so im about to do the seafoam and i wanted to make sure that this was the correct vacuum line to pour it into. you can see where i would unplug it with the yellow arrows.

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i was a little confused on where 04blackedge had his mine didnt look like that so i thought i would double check before i do it wrong haha
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009
  #37  
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With the seafoam, I've heard that you should change the oil right away, but with the PM-3, I've heard that you can wait until you've used a few times.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2009
  #38  
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I heard it the other way around. The Ford TSB says to change the oil right after use.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009
  #39  
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All additives (except atf) that you pour into oil, you need to change the oil at about 50 miles after you do the treatment.

The additives will thin the oil out, run it long enough, you may just nuke your engine.

Seafoam did wonders for my VW's, but didnt really notice a difference in my truck. Didn't even smoke that much.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2009
  #40  
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glad i read this thread, i've always heard yall talk about it, and was curious if it worked, and everything...
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009
  #41  
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I do this about once a year with my Camaro. I'll tell you how I do it. First put 1/3 in the gas tank. Put 1/3 in the crankcase. Save the rest. Drive it no more than 300 miles before you change the oil but you need to get it warm so it works on the buildup. Next startup the truck and let it run for a few minutes to get it warm. Now take the small funnel and attach it as shown above. It'll make a bad sucking sound. Take the final 1/3 and SLOWLY pour 1/2 of that 1/3 into the funnel. Don't pour so much the truck stalls. Then take the final 1/2 of the last 1/3 and quickly dump it down the funnel. I'll make the truck stall. Wait 15 minutes and let the Seafoam sit in the engine. Go ahead and reassemble the vacuum line. Now start up the truck. It'll take a few tries as it mixes in and burns off. Now rev the engine up and down and watch the smoke pour out of it.

There have been discussions on other boards on whether this is a good idea to do often because that burned off carbon buildup could end up in the cat and might cause big problems down the road. I only do mine once a year just in case. I've also heard of it throwing codes for the first few miles but mine never has. I'm going to be doing my truck soon but it makes a huge difference in my Camaro and fogged out the entire neighborhood when I did it to my Supra before I sold it. Heh!
 
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Old Mar 16, 2009
  #42  
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How does this stack up against BK44G? Thats what my grandpa uses all the time in his cars.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2009
  #43  
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No idea on that one. I just know I ran a bottle of Seafoam through the Ranger last night to see how much build-up was in the engine and it smoked bad for about 5 minutes and then ran perfectly today. Best $10 I've spent on the truck in awhile.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2009
  #44  
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I got a 92 with a 3.0 we just put a new one from a junkyard in it with 76,000 on it. It doesnt start well when cold and its really slugish at low rpm's Could this fix my problem ?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012
  #45  
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2002, 3.0 6 cylinder, 164,000 miles - just bought it, changed the oil, plugs; cleaned the MAF, IAC, Throttle; pedal mod - they I saw this post and decided to try it - well it smoked alright - must have been cleaning tons of carbon build up - but it clogged my cats - now $800+ later my truck is running great - be careful for what you wish for
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012
  #46  
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Why are pouring the stuff in your oil or gas? Buy the Seafoam that you spray right into the throttle body. Works great and don't have to change oil.
 
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