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Squealing/Chirping Noise getting worse and worse...

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  #1  
Old 05-04-2007
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Squealing/Chirping Noise getting worse and worse...

I have a 02 3.0L V6 and of recent I have an ungodly noise. At idle it is barely noticeable, but as soon as I accelerate, the noise increases considerably. It sounds like a chorus of crickets chirping or a squealing noise. I'm aware it may be the belt but I haven't had any issues with it of recent whatsoever until the past week and a half. As far as I know it is the original belt and I have roughly 67,000 miles on the truck. The squealing noise level and frequency changes with engine RPM. I figure a pulley or the belt is the culprit, but any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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try the belt 1st

i had the same problem about two weeks ago
 

Last edited by Silver; 05-04-2007 at 11:56 AM.
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  #3  
Old 05-04-2007
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LOL, you found my thread where I couldn't get the problem to go away but not my thread where I finally figured it out.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=41707
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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lol i read that thread
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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Soooo...what is recommended is to replace the belt and clean the pulley surfaces?
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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go in the reverse order of what i did. cheapest to most expensive.
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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Originally Posted by Marcaronio
go in the reverse order of what i did. cheapest to most expensive.

Joy...well, I guess I'll be removing the belt and checking it over, then cleaning the pulleys and reinstalling the belt (if not just replacing it) and see what effect that has on things.
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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you cant go wong with a new belt after so many miles
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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Originally Posted by Silver
you cant go wong with a new belt after so many miles

True true...so long as the noise goes away. I'm tempted to get the underdrive pulleys for the amp and the water that underdog has. I need to check with my local advance auto to see if they have the gatorback belt to go with them.
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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get the belt from u-dog at the same time he has a 4 piece special now

its a shame i he did not have the special when i got mine but its on the list
for the other two pulleys
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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Originally Posted by Silver
get the belt from u-dog at the same time he has a 4 piece special now

its a shame i he did not have the special when i got mine but its on the list
for the other two pulleys
I didn't see a special price...where's it at?
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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http://www.stuffforyourranger.com/st...a2600bc5e47ac8

not a bad deal but if you get the chance do the e-fan as well makes it easier lots more room to work
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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ugh i was glad to get rid of that damn squeal/squeaking belt noise when i traded my truck lol I replaced pulleys, changed belts, and it just would not go away.. I would have to sit sometimes in the driveway and wait for it to go away, or else it would squeak for miles down the road
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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Well hell, I just went and ordered the underdrive amp and crank pulleys, plus the gatorback belt to go with it. I intend to clean up the surface of my pulleys and lube the tension pulley and see if that helps.
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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Never the less, you're gonna love the power increase and the way the engine responds, much better! :) Good luck with em Frank!
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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Originally Posted by bwester04
Never the less, you're gonna love the power increase and the way the engine responds, much better! :) Good luck with em Frank!
Thanks BJ :) I didn't order all three pulleys, just the two of them. I have no need for the other one, just the two.
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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If you find that the belt/pulleys are not the problem, here is another not-so-pleasant possibility. It doesn't have to be this but it is another thing to think about as the miles accumulate.

The Synchronizer is an oddly named part that is actually just an adaptor for the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. It fits into the hole that would have housed the ignition distributor on an older version of the engine. The shaft is gear driven at right angles from the cam buried inside the block and its function is to get the rotation of the camshaft to a location where a CMP Sensor can be mounted and is accessible for service. It has an aluminum housing with a steel shaft turning inside and does not have pressure lubrication. Sometimes, after time and miles accumulate, the lubrication in the Synchronizer can dry up and the squeaking/chirping will begin.
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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Originally Posted by rwenzing
If you find that the belt/pulleys are not the problem, here is another not-so-pleasant possibility. It doesn't have to be this but it is another thing to think about as the miles accumulate.

The Synchronizer is an oddly named part that is actually just an adaptor for the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. It fits into the hole that would have housed the ignition distributor on an older version of the engine. The shaft is gear driven at right angles from the cam buried inside the block and its function is to get the rotation of the camshaft to a location where a CMP Sensor can be mounted and is accessible for service. It has an aluminum housing with a steel shaft turning inside and does not have pressure lubrication. Sometimes, after time and miles accumulate, the lubrication in the Synchronizer can dry up and the squeaking/chirping will begin.

Hmmm...well, if it continues after the mods...looks like I'll be exploring for it. Thanks for the heads up Bob :)
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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frank let me know how the pulleys go. im debating it.
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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Can do David
 
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Old 05-04-2007
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Originally Posted by rwenzing
If you find that the belt/pulleys are not the problem, here is another not-so-pleasant possibility. It doesn't have to be this but it is another thing to think about as the miles accumulate.

The Synchronizer is an oddly named part that is actually just an adaptor for the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. It fits into the hole that would have housed the ignition distributor on an older version of the engine. The shaft is gear driven at right angles from the cam buried inside the block and its function is to get the rotation of the camshaft to a location where a CMP Sensor can be mounted and is accessible for service. It has an aluminum housing with a steel shaft turning inside and does not have pressure lubrication. Sometimes, after time and miles accumulate, the lubrication in the Synchronizer can dry up and the squeaking/chirping will begin.
For what it is worth, how should one go about lubricating this component? I dug around on RPS and my Haynes manual, and it looks like I need to remove the sensor, then pour oil down into the beast. Is this feasible?
 

Last edited by pastfinder; 05-04-2007 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 05-05-2007
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-0-O...spagenameZWDVW
seems feasible. but once the noise starts there that should just be a band-aid treatment. id replace it might fail later. link is just for referance. hope it helps david
 
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Old 05-05-2007
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My plan, once I finish the draft of the paper I'm working on, is to remove the sensor and see if I can slowly pour some oil into the CMP and hope that capillary action will pull some of the oil into the inner workings (it should theoretically).
 
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Originally Posted by pastfinder
For what it is worth, how should one go about lubricating this component? I dug around on RPS and my Haynes manual, and it looks like I need to remove the sensor, then pour oil down into the beast. Is this feasible?
I don't know if it would work to lube the synchronizer in place, even if the sensor has been removed. I would suspect that there is a seal on the shaft to keep oil away from the sensor but who knows?

The "right" way would be to remove the sensor and synchronizer from the engine and disassemble to lube it. If it's squeaking now, there's is a good chance the aluminum has already galled. It doesn't like to be run dry. If you do remove the synchronizer, remember that it is timed to the cam and must go back in on the same gear tooth.

Don't get too excited yet. There's a good chance that it's your belt and pulleys.
 
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Old 05-05-2007
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Originally Posted by rwenzing
I don't know if it would work to lube the synchronizer in place, even if the sensor has been removed. I would suspect that there is a seal on the shaft to keep oil away from the sensor but who knows?

The "right" way would be to remove the sensor and synchronizer from the engine and disassemble to lube it. If it's squeaking now, there's is a good chance the aluminum has already galled. It doesn't like to be run dry. If you do remove the synchronizer, remember that it is timed to the cam and must go back in on the same gear tooth.

Don't get too excited yet. There's a good chance that it's your belt and pulleys.
I removed the sensor earlier today and poured a small amount of motor oil on top of the gearing. Capillary action pulled it down. I turned things on and let the engine run for awhile. I then drove around a bit and the squealing stopped. I drove back to my apartment, and the squealing started again. I then went about and took a rag and held it at to the exposed pulley sections and ran the engine, wiping off all kinds of junk. I did this to the belt as well. Drove around some more and no more squealing. Drove about 30 miles and the squealing is all gone. As for what it was, seems most likely it was the belt and pulleys. I do know what the CMP is now....all the way in the back of the engine, haha.
 
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