Squealing/Chirping Noise getting worse and worse...
#1
Squealing/Chirping Noise getting worse and worse...
I have a 02 3.0L V6 and of recent I have an ungodly noise. At idle it is barely noticeable, but as soon as I accelerate, the noise increases considerably. It sounds like a chorus of crickets chirping or a squealing noise. I'm aware it may be the belt but I haven't had any issues with it of recent whatsoever until the past week and a half. As far as I know it is the original belt and I have roughly 67,000 miles on the truck. The squealing noise level and frequency changes with engine RPM. I figure a pulley or the belt is the culprit, but any help would be greatly appreciated.
#3
LOL, you found my thread where I couldn't get the problem to go away but not my thread where I finally figured it out.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=41707
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=41707
#7
#9
Originally Posted by Silver
you cant go wong with a new belt after so many miles
True true...so long as the noise goes away. I'm tempted to get the underdrive pulleys for the amp and the water that underdog has. I need to check with my local advance auto to see if they have the gatorback belt to go with them.
#11
#12
http://www.stuffforyourranger.com/st...a2600bc5e47ac8
not a bad deal but if you get the chance do the e-fan as well makes it easier lots more room to work
not a bad deal but if you get the chance do the e-fan as well makes it easier lots more room to work
#13
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#17
If you find that the belt/pulleys are not the problem, here is another not-so-pleasant possibility. It doesn't have to be this but it is another thing to think about as the miles accumulate.
The Synchronizer is an oddly named part that is actually just an adaptor for the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. It fits into the hole that would have housed the ignition distributor on an older version of the engine. The shaft is gear driven at right angles from the cam buried inside the block and its function is to get the rotation of the camshaft to a location where a CMP Sensor can be mounted and is accessible for service. It has an aluminum housing with a steel shaft turning inside and does not have pressure lubrication. Sometimes, after time and miles accumulate, the lubrication in the Synchronizer can dry up and the squeaking/chirping will begin.
The Synchronizer is an oddly named part that is actually just an adaptor for the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. It fits into the hole that would have housed the ignition distributor on an older version of the engine. The shaft is gear driven at right angles from the cam buried inside the block and its function is to get the rotation of the camshaft to a location where a CMP Sensor can be mounted and is accessible for service. It has an aluminum housing with a steel shaft turning inside and does not have pressure lubrication. Sometimes, after time and miles accumulate, the lubrication in the Synchronizer can dry up and the squeaking/chirping will begin.
#18
Originally Posted by rwenzing
If you find that the belt/pulleys are not the problem, here is another not-so-pleasant possibility. It doesn't have to be this but it is another thing to think about as the miles accumulate.
The Synchronizer is an oddly named part that is actually just an adaptor for the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. It fits into the hole that would have housed the ignition distributor on an older version of the engine. The shaft is gear driven at right angles from the cam buried inside the block and its function is to get the rotation of the camshaft to a location where a CMP Sensor can be mounted and is accessible for service. It has an aluminum housing with a steel shaft turning inside and does not have pressure lubrication. Sometimes, after time and miles accumulate, the lubrication in the Synchronizer can dry up and the squeaking/chirping will begin.
The Synchronizer is an oddly named part that is actually just an adaptor for the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. It fits into the hole that would have housed the ignition distributor on an older version of the engine. The shaft is gear driven at right angles from the cam buried inside the block and its function is to get the rotation of the camshaft to a location where a CMP Sensor can be mounted and is accessible for service. It has an aluminum housing with a steel shaft turning inside and does not have pressure lubrication. Sometimes, after time and miles accumulate, the lubrication in the Synchronizer can dry up and the squeaking/chirping will begin.
Hmmm...well, if it continues after the mods...looks like I'll be exploring for it. Thanks for the heads up Bob :)
#21
Originally Posted by rwenzing
If you find that the belt/pulleys are not the problem, here is another not-so-pleasant possibility. It doesn't have to be this but it is another thing to think about as the miles accumulate.
The Synchronizer is an oddly named part that is actually just an adaptor for the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. It fits into the hole that would have housed the ignition distributor on an older version of the engine. The shaft is gear driven at right angles from the cam buried inside the block and its function is to get the rotation of the camshaft to a location where a CMP Sensor can be mounted and is accessible for service. It has an aluminum housing with a steel shaft turning inside and does not have pressure lubrication. Sometimes, after time and miles accumulate, the lubrication in the Synchronizer can dry up and the squeaking/chirping will begin.
The Synchronizer is an oddly named part that is actually just an adaptor for the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. It fits into the hole that would have housed the ignition distributor on an older version of the engine. The shaft is gear driven at right angles from the cam buried inside the block and its function is to get the rotation of the camshaft to a location where a CMP Sensor can be mounted and is accessible for service. It has an aluminum housing with a steel shaft turning inside and does not have pressure lubrication. Sometimes, after time and miles accumulate, the lubrication in the Synchronizer can dry up and the squeaking/chirping will begin.
Last edited by pastfinder; 05-04-2007 at 09:27 PM.
#22
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-0-O...spagenameZWDVW
seems feasible. but once the noise starts there that should just be a band-aid treatment. id replace it might fail later. link is just for referance. hope it helps david
seems feasible. but once the noise starts there that should just be a band-aid treatment. id replace it might fail later. link is just for referance. hope it helps david
#23
#24
Originally Posted by pastfinder
For what it is worth, how should one go about lubricating this component? I dug around on RPS and my Haynes manual, and it looks like I need to remove the sensor, then pour oil down into the beast. Is this feasible?
The "right" way would be to remove the sensor and synchronizer from the engine and disassemble to lube it. If it's squeaking now, there's is a good chance the aluminum has already galled. It doesn't like to be run dry. If you do remove the synchronizer, remember that it is timed to the cam and must go back in on the same gear tooth.
Don't get too excited yet. There's a good chance that it's your belt and pulleys.
#25
Originally Posted by rwenzing
I don't know if it would work to lube the synchronizer in place, even if the sensor has been removed. I would suspect that there is a seal on the shaft to keep oil away from the sensor but who knows?
The "right" way would be to remove the sensor and synchronizer from the engine and disassemble to lube it. If it's squeaking now, there's is a good chance the aluminum has already galled. It doesn't like to be run dry. If you do remove the synchronizer, remember that it is timed to the cam and must go back in on the same gear tooth.
Don't get too excited yet. There's a good chance that it's your belt and pulleys.
The "right" way would be to remove the sensor and synchronizer from the engine and disassemble to lube it. If it's squeaking now, there's is a good chance the aluminum has already galled. It doesn't like to be run dry. If you do remove the synchronizer, remember that it is timed to the cam and must go back in on the same gear tooth.
Don't get too excited yet. There's a good chance that it's your belt and pulleys.