OK new to rangers, been onboard the forum for a while.


I have been smelling antifreeze smell for a while around the truck, trying to track it down and finally found a wet area at engine front cover passenger side below alternator. Pretty easy to see from underneath. Looks to be running down to oilpan gasket and then back. If engine is hot it will be dry.


I have repaired this leak on my old F150 with 302, GM 3.1, and others so I can probable get thru it ok.


If I can find time I would like to fix it before winter hits.


I wanted to ask your thoughts on need to change timing chain/gears while in there? What about doing it with out oilpan gasket or is it necessary to pull oilpan? I heard it is a pain.
Probably looking at waterpump at least. Mileage is around 127K.


Appreciate everyone's input.

 

Pretty typical leak for a 3 litre, may as well replace the water pump while you're in there, probably time to do it with a 127K.

The pan gasket mates with the bottom of the timing cover, sometimes lots of RTV has been used so you destroy the pan gasket removing the timing cover _ so can of worms.

If the oil pan gasket has never been replaced, then it's probably time.

I've tried to do it with the trans in place and found it impossible.
It's a PITA to do it even with the trans out of the way.
The engine has to be pretty much lifted off it's mounts.
The problem is the oil pump catches on the internal baffle inside the pan, so it requires a lot clearance.
Once the pan is dropped, replace the rear main crank seal as well.
If it's a standard, consider doing the clutch (pressure plate, disc, slave and master cylinder).

Yeah I know, one thing leads to another.

I have to do my rear main seal again.
What I'm going to do is remove the synchronizer at the back of the engine and remove the drive shaft from the oil pump.
This will be sort of difficult because the drive shaft is held in there with a strong snap ring, but if I can get it out, the rest will be easy.

I can easily drop the pan enough to gain access to the one bolt holding the oil pump in place.
The oil pump can then be removed with the pan with ease.

Keep updating this thread, there are lots of things that have to be done along the way when replacing the pan gasket.
If it gets to that,
And the clutch business part of it too...

Pulling the synchronizer is not a big deal either, so don't worry about that.
There's a thread here on how to do it, or I can tell you, I've had mine in and out so many times it's like breathing _ only takes me 10 minutes at most, if that...

One more thing, you can replace the timing chain if you want, but it's meant to last 300K, so not really necessary, but inexpensive enough if you want, the chain and sprockets are built like a brick **** house !
Easy job really, two simple timing marks to line up and no tensioners to worry about.

Note also the dampener where the front oil seal rides on, if the groove is really deep, you can get a sleeve for. It wears badly, it's made of aluminum.


It's getting kind of late in the season to do the oil pan, especially working outside or if your garage isn't heated, if you can get the timing cover off, with out damaging the pan gasket, then that's what to shoot for.
Even if it rips, I suppose you can Goober a whole lot of RTV in there until next summer.
The worst thing what can happen is the pan will leak oil in that area.

 

Thank you Jeff R 1.


Wow sounds like too much work to remove the pan! I did a GM 3.1 front cover last winter without removing oilpan bc engine is supported by the pan which would have required a ton extra work so I went the RTV route. Don't really like it but could not help it.
May leave timing chain and gears alone then if all looks ok, replacement would likely be aftermarket anyways.


Been reading a lot about the synchronizer, does it start getting noisy when end is near?? Mine runs quietly so far.

 

When it starts to get chirpy it can go for long time to the point where the bushing wears and allows the mechanical part to start banging into the sensor itself.
In many cases the sensor has to be totally chewed before you finally get a code, and sometimes it will even run OK.
I remove the sensor on mine every 6 months and spray a bit of Tri-Flow in there to lubricate things.
So when it starts to get noisy (first sign of noise) that can be just the beginning.
It depends how loud you crank your tunes I guess. :-)

If you take the sensor off (you can leave it plugged in) and see what looks like rusty dust in there, then it needs replacing.
The dust is actually the bushing disintegrating.
I use a 3/8 extension that's a foot long with a UV joint and a 3/8 to 1/4 inch reducer.
I then use a small 1/4 inch socket on the two bolts that hold the sensor in place.
I can't remember what size the bolts are off hand.
It's pretty easy to get at on the 3 Litre.
All you have to do is push the wiring harness to the side, and you can clearly see it.
It helps to be tall and have long arms.
In the link it shows TDC for number 1 on compression to use the crank shaft position sensor.
This will be close enough, but is not actually TDC, there is a TDC mark on the timing cover itself, but it's hard to see.
I discovered it when I rebuilt my engine.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...9-3-0v-114186/

 

I appreciate this and other advise I have picked up here at RF. My kids say forums are thing of the past but I am happy to lurk here for bits and pieces of information!


When I get a moment I will check out the sensor for any deposits indicating replacement is needed.

 

If your kids say, "forums are things of the past" what would they suggest, texting friends for help ?
If not forums, school, collage, mechanic ???
I guess the library would be out of the question. He He He ...

 

JUST DID THE TIMING COVER, TO GET TWO BROKEN WATER PUMP BOLTS OUT. TRIED TO DO IT THE CHEAPEST EASIER WAY AND LEAVE THE OIL PAN AND GASKET ON, NOW I HAVE TO GO BACK TO THE TIMING CHAIN COVER DUE TO A LEAK. I WOULD AND AM GOING TO DROP THE PAN MAN...3.0 AUTOMATIC.

 

If one were to remove the synchronizer and pull the drive shaft first from the top of the oil pump.
This would enable you to remove the oil pump and drop the pan.

The pump is only held on by one bolt and there's no gasket involved.

The problems are that the drive shaft is held in there with a rather strong snap ring, so pulling it out from the top may be impossible.
It takes a pair of vice-grips and a small sharp blow to the pump to get the shaft out.

Also, even if one did manage to drop the pan with the trans in place.
There would be so little space to work, the it would be nearly impossible to get at that one bolt to remove the pump.

I have to do my rear seal again, this time around I'm just going to remove the engine and leave the trans behind.

Here's a video where a guy claims it can be done.

 

Old thread but I thought I would stay in and not start new.
Weather warming up it is time to fix the timing cover leak and with that waterpump and such. So looking at water pumps at rockauto the Motorcraft has a different impeller from all the other brands and of course it costs 3x the other pumps. Is there something special about waterpumps on these 3.0's?
Truck is 04 edge with 3.0 U code

 

The Ford pump costs more because the bits that make it up, have been tested and adhere to more stringent manufacturing standards, in other words, it's guaranteed to work as it should.

The cheap ones have not been tested and the parts can be had from anywhere, if the pump fails, then you get a new one under warranty and install it.
You're the guinea pig when it comes to cheap auto parts.

EDIT:
Had a look at the ford impeller, looks to be more efficient, like the enclosed blades in a vacuum cleaner.
I have one of the cheap pumps on mine, and works well enough though, if I had to replace it, I would go with the Ford one.

 

I read several bad reviews about the cheap ones, I have however used them on many vehicles over the years without any issues. I may go with Motorcraft this time.
Thank you.