Hi Guys:
Need help.

Victim:
2004 Ford Ranger Edge with the 3.0 V6-65,000 miles approx. Fuel injected.

Story:
This little truck has run like a champ up until 2 weeks ago. Now, it takes about 5-10 seconds of cranking with two quick pumps, then a third pump to the floor for a couple of seconds- then it starts running. After that, it runs fine. It seems to start better after its warmed up---but not really...

What we've done:
1.) First thought-Bad Gas
So we ran higher octane with trusted gas and additive for 3 tanks-no helpee.
2.) Second thought-Fuel FILTER (did this AFTER we took it to a shop)
Fired right up and then went back to having trouble starting.
3.) Tried turning key to on to get the fuel pump primed and going to injectors.
Didn't help.

Repair Nightmare:
We took the truck to a trusted repair place and also checked the Dealer and another repair shop to check the results and cost:

- They say it is the fuel pump. Cost:Almost $700.00
- The diagnostic test they ran to check it was fuel pressure to the injectors.
- They claim there is no doubt and it will fail soon and be on the back of a tow truck. The reason it costs so much is that the gas tank has to be dropped and the repair parts have to come from the Dealer (only one around here that has them). It may be a minor fix inside the pump but the labor to get to it and close it up is what is the killer.

Just to be on the safe side, we did number 2 above after we took it in to the shop- it wasn't the fuel filter.

Ay Ideas?
We don't have the money for this and I came on here to see if anyone had any ideas before we eat the big one and have to pay this much money-probably 3 pay checks from now.

So..if anyone has had this issue and can either confirm the pump issue or steer us to an easier to handle $$$ fix, WE WOULD SURE APPRECIATE IT!

THANKS GUYS

 

I think if you pull the bed you will have access and not need to drop the tank. You can do this yourself. Just get a couple guys to help you remove the bed.
I do that on the Superdutys to replace fuel pump modules in tank, on a Ranger it should be the same at a smaller scale.

 

I had the same issue with my truck but it actually went away. The fuel pressure regulator is integral to the fuel pump on the Rangers for whatever reason and it sticks open which causes the fuel pressure to run right back to the tank. I personally didn't notice any driveability issues on my truck or any other that I have ever fixed for the same problem other than a long crank time. It won't end up on the back of a tow truck unless you have straight up low fuel pressure and the pump is going bad but that's not the problem you're having. Pumping the gas also is of no use and turning the key on to prime the injectors is impossible if pressure bleeds right back. Turning the key to on will give it about 50 psi, but when you leave the key on it will go back to 0 in seconds. What I did was turn the key from off to run three times every morning and it would start right up. I think a piece of dirt or something stuck inside the regulator for me. After about a month of this it started working just fine again so I consider myself fortunate. I also replaced the fuel filter and got excited because it seemed like it was all better for a couple of days and then came back. My advice if you're too broke to have it fixed, pick up a bottle of Seafoam, and dump the entire contents in the tank. Drive it and hope for the best.

 

That's pretty interesting guys- thanks. I just tried the three clicks method which worked but well need to try it tomorrow morning when the car is cold. As for taking the bed off, I've never done it but heck, if the pump is just below and open that would make it easy to do the pump- I can't believe these guys get $367.00 for the pump. Where's the fuel pressure regulator (on the pump)? Can that be tested replaced or is it part of the unit?
Thanks guys- appreciate the help!!!

 

It's built onto the pump so there is no way of replacing just it. The way of testing it is by hooking a fuel pressure gauge to the test port on the fuel injector rail. When it bleeds right off unless you have an injector leak or something you've found your problem but injector leaks usually cause driveability issues too. The bed is 6 bolts, taillight wiring and a fuel neck away from taking off. It's not hard, but I just empty the tank or wait for the tank to be empty and then drop the tank since I have a lift at work and all. The pump is expensive because it has the sending unit, the pump and regulator all in one but oh well. If money is an issue though bud I'd definitely do the Seafoam method and turning the key three times. Unless the diaphragm inside the regulator has busted it's just dirty and it will come out eventually probably.

 

Rgr. =John= I understand: I can't do any diagnostics, but I'm sure if/when it comes down to it I can take the bed off, find the pump and switch it out. I tried your three switch on/off method and so far so good. Amazing really. How does that work? I have never used Seafoam but I've seen it mentioned in forums. I'll go hunt some down and do what you say.
Thanks a million.
Erik

 

Seafoam is a cleaner which works great for engines and stuff but it is good in tanks too. The three times thing with the key thing usually worked because the fuel pump only pulses fuel to the rail for the first second or two after key on so 3 key cycles is enough to get it to the rail and as long as you start it soon after it's better.

 

Hey John:

Just wanted you to know that the 3-on/off method is working. Put a can of Seafoam in the tank this morning. Truck runs smoother, no change on starting yet.

Thanks for the help. Even if we need a fuel pump down the road, this is buying us time to save for it.

Thanks!
(now what do you know about fuel systems on 94 Explorers? LOL- When it gets hot: the car and the outside temp, I smell gas fumes- no responses at all on the Explorer forum).