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4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 04-07-2011
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Icon8 1st post f%^% bearings

so i replaced my wheel bearings on the left side 4 times now and still hearing a runt runt noise coming from that side starting to think iam going nuts but i dont think my spindel is bent so idk any ideas



2000 ranger 4.0 3 inch lift 2wd jolly green midget
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Old 04-07-2011
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Check the clearance between wheel and spindle. I had that issue after I installed spindles. Turned out the wheel balancing weights would just barely touch at the top of the spindle.
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Old 04-07-2011
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ya but i got the same weights on both front rims and it only makes it on the pf
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Old 04-07-2011
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if you've replaced the bearing, then i doubt its that. a simple way to check to see if your bearing is bad is to jack your truck up, grab your wheel at 12 and 5. and shake it back and forth, if it moves a ton, your bearing is toast.
Check your calipers and pads, those make noises all the time.
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Old 04-07-2011
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took it apart bearings r fine brakes r fine repackedem and noise is still there FML
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Old 04-07-2011
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Did you replace the races along with the bearings?
They can be a PITA to do but that could be your prob right there. I had to use a flat head screwdriver and carefully tap them out from the back side being careful not to gouge the inside of the rotor. Buy a race/seal driver kit to re-install them. Mine was only $30 at Harbor-Freight.
Also torque is very important when doing the bearings. First torque the nut to 17-25 foot lbs while rotating the wheel (seats the bearings), then back the nut off 1/2 turn and re-torque it to 17-20 INCH lbs. Too much pre-load and they will be toast in no time, too little and the wheel will wobble.
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Old 04-07-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKoegel View Post
Did you replace the races along with the bearings?
They can be a PITA to do but that could be your prob right there. I had to use a flat head screwdriver and carefully tap them out from the back side being careful not to gouge the inside of the rotor. Buy a race/seal driver kit to re-install them. Mine was only $30 at Harbor-Freight.
Also torque is very important when doing the bearings. First torque the nut to 17-25 foot lbs while rotating the wheel (seats the bearings), then back the nut off 1/2 turn and re-torque it to 17-20 INCH lbs. Too much pre-load and they will be toast in no time, too little and the wheel will wobble.
Replacing the race in the bearing is probably the most important part, you can pack it with grease all you want, but if your race is trash, then it will still make noise.
to be fair about the torque thing, i usually just crank that sucker tight, and back it off until the wheel spins right, its all feeling for me, but i know how a correct spinning wheel feels. sounds weird, but i've not had a problem yet.
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Old 04-08-2011
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ight thanks
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Old 04-08-2011
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swap tires from one side to the other see if the noise moves
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Old 04-12-2011
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well now the bolt backed off and its lose so iam gona replace the races and bearings again see if it fixes it
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