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4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #1  
Old 05-12-2009
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4.0 OHV rebuild.

Well I cracked both heads so I decided to take the motor apart and rebuild it. About 3 months ago my waterpump shaft snapped and my truck overheated so thats what caused my heads to crack. Truck ran great, only burned a little bit of antifreeze. I also decided to replace master cylinder and do some other maintnance.

Well I decided to take apart upper end in truck and then take block out by itself. Heads are fixed and i got to put new exhaust seats in and 2 intake seats. All my brackets are getting powdercoated hamertone black which is a killer color. My block and heads are getting spray bombed gloss black, my water pump is going to be aluminum colored paint.

I got my block out today, so tomorrow im hoping to clean up my engine compartment. All new sensors and gaskets are getting used.

Now on with some pics:
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Front timing cover seal was leaking pretty good to:

New Master:
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One of the cracks:
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Crack repaired:
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New Torque converter:
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Motor out:
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Old 05-14-2009
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Well got the main and rod bearings replaced and started reassembly. I got the pistons cleaned and put in, oil pump and screen, timing cover, oil pan, waterpump and harmonic balancer.
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Been so busy at work I haven't been able to install all new exhaust seats and 2 bad intake seats, Hopefully tomorrow. If not tomorrow it's going to have to wait till monday when I return from Army drills.
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Old 05-14-2009
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yay! pushrods FTW!
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Old 05-14-2009
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I hate OHC motors. OHV are much easier to work on. We rebuild so many heads at work its not even funny and the majority of them are OHC heads with bent valves because a timing belt jumped time. I'll take my 4.0 OHV any day over a 4.0 SOHC.
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Old 05-14-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangerkid View Post
I hate OHC motors. OHV are much easier to work on. We rebuild so many heads at work its not even funny and the majority of them are OHC heads with bent valves because a timing belt jumped time. I'll take my 4.0 OHV any day over a 4.0 SOHC.
X2 I love mine
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Old 05-14-2009
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I regret buying an 01 because I was stupid when I bought it.
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Old 05-15-2009
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Well ran to a little snag today. 1 of the 2 heads I pinned didn't hold so now im on the look out for another 4.0 head. The 1 good head is all set and ready to get put back on. I also got my alternator back from the rebuilder and a bunch of other parts from my powdercoater. Im still waiting on my lower intake, exhaust manifolds, and my valve covers.
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Old 05-15-2009
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Motor:
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Alternator:
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Fuel Rail:
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Water pump pulley:
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Alt bracket:
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Dip stick tube:
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A/C and PS bracket:
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Water neck:
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Motor mounts:
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Old 05-15-2009
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did you paint that stuff with hammerite? I'm tearing up my 79 f250 and using it to paint radiator support and everything else that "was" black.

it looks good.
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Old 05-16-2009
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nice powdercoat!!
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Old 05-16-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graniteguy View Post
did you paint that stuff with hammerite? I'm tearing up my 79 f250 and using it to paint radiator support and everything else that "was" black.

it looks good.

Ya, its black hammertone. My buddy gets it from powderbythepound.com
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Old 05-16-2009
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sweet dude ill be doing this one day when mine decides to crap out
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  #13  
Old 05-16-2009
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Looks good...My Matco box is black hammertone/silvervein .
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Old 05-16-2009
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That looks great! I can't wait to see the finished product.
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Old 05-16-2009
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Looking good....
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Old 05-16-2009
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Hopefully if I can get a set of heads it should be up and running by thursday or friday if I can get time to bust *** and finish it. Im debatting about putting the block in by itself but it'd be so much easier to put the whole motor in assembled.
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Old 05-16-2009
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their not bad to get back in with the hole motor assembled just take ya time and it will go right in
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Old 05-21-2009
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Well motors in, Everythings bolted down and ready to go.... Except my exhaust and im missing a clip that I need for my throttle body. I have to remove my front driveshaft so I can get my front Y-pipe in place and I gotta order a nex clip. then I can top off the fluids and I'll be good to go.

Okay, on with the pics I know you all love.

Motor in the truck, notice all the powdercoat and the now black engine compartment:
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You can see the everything matches, Powdercoated intake, valve covers, alternator brackets, MAF, water pump pulley:
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Powdercoated Manifolds:
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Y-Pipe:
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Old 05-22-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangerkid View Post
I hate OHC motors. OHV are much easier to work on. We rebuild so many heads at work its not even funny and the majority of them are OHC heads with bent valves because a timing belt jumped time. I'll take my 4.0 OHV any day over a 4.0 SOHC.

I hear ya.. but I'd like to point out something. It's not the OHC vs OHV *design* that's at fault. It's the casting thickness and heat disipation paths that are.

OHC design is significantly more efficient.
The problem with our engines is that this motor started off as a german 2.6L (or maybe it was a 2.8L?) Since then (the early 70s) this motor has been bored, stroked, and thinned out to within an inch of it's life.
Our heads are simply too thin. So is the block. They just can't be overheated without major problems.

Case in point.. look at the 4.6L and 5.4L fords. They were designed from scratch vs being a stretched previous design.

I've personally seen the durability tests and teardowns at windsor engine plant. Trust me.. the OHC mod motors will go places and endure MUCH more than the old OHV 5.0L ever could.

Rich
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Old 05-22-2009
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Josh, did you remove your cam? Im tryin to get some advice on the steps to r&r a cam in a 4.0

I am doing the same as you except I have a Comp 422 waiting to go in but I am not sure what to do with the cam sensor,never delt with one before.
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  #21  
Old 05-22-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathbypsi View Post
Josh, did you remove your cam? Im tryin to get some advice on the steps to r&r a cam in a 4.0

I am doing the same as you except I have a Comp 422 waiting to go in but I am not sure what to do with the cam sensor,never delt with one before.
Yes I did , I have a cam Synchronizer on mine and I replaced it anyway so it wasn't a big deal just pop out the cam plug. I re-used the pistons, rods, cam, and crank. At 150,000 they all still looked brand new. No wear at all on the bearing surfaces.
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Old 05-22-2009
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At 150,000 they all still looked brand new. No wear at all on the bearing surfaces.
If you don't mind me asking.. what oil was used and what intervals was it changed at?

Just curious..

Rich
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  #23  
Old 05-22-2009
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So does anything have to be lined up prior to pulling that dumby shaft with the cam position sensor on it out? Or do you just unbolt the hold down and yank it out? And after new cam is in just drop everything back in the hole?
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Old 05-23-2009
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If you don't mind me asking.. what oil was used and what intervals was it changed at?

Just curious..

Rich
Valvoline oil changed every 3,000-4,000 miles used with a wix premium filter. Every other oil change I use a bottle of Slip coat made by a local Michigan company called Hapco.
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Old 05-23-2009
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Originally Posted by deathbypsi View Post
So does anything have to be lined up prior to pulling that dumby shaft with the cam position sensor on it out? Or do you just unbolt the hold down and yank it out? And after new cam is in just drop everything back in the hole?
Not when pulling the cam Synchro, just unbolt holdown and pull up. When re-installing the sensor has to line up to a certain degree with the #1 cylinder at TDC of Compression stroke. It tells you in the Haynes manual. I can't remember the degrees off hand.
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