Changing transmission fluid lines
My vehicle has a 4 liter V6 4 wheel drive engine with automatic transmission. For my own wierd and possibly dumb reasons, I want to modify the transmission fluid lines, switching out the 4 liter inlet lines, for the 2.3 liter inlet line. There is nothing presently wrong with the transmission or the 4 liter lines. I just want to switch them out anyway.
The 2.3 liter inlet line part number is 6L5Z-7A030-CA. I have this new line, and while I do not have a hoist or any way really to lift the truck to approximate fitment, or personally install; after close and time consumed examination, it looks to me like it will fit. I am just not sure how to go about it.
My questions are, what do I need to remove to switch them out? Do I need to drain and remove the radiator and fan assembly? Do I need to drain the oil and remove the oil filter? Or would simply lifting the front end or using a hoist slightly be enough to disconnect the front and back end of the inlet line? With how things are situated around and near the line, it looks like there would be more to it.
The 2.3 liter inlet line part number is 6L5Z-7A030-CA. I have this new line, and while I do not have a hoist or any way really to lift the truck to approximate fitment, or personally install; after close and time consumed examination, it looks to me like it will fit. I am just not sure how to go about it.
My questions are, what do I need to remove to switch them out? Do I need to drain and remove the radiator and fan assembly? Do I need to drain the oil and remove the oil filter? Or would simply lifting the front end or using a hoist slightly be enough to disconnect the front and back end of the inlet line? With how things are situated around and near the line, it looks like there would be more to it.
This is not possibly dumb it is clearly a dumb idea.
However my personal feelings aside, changing metal transmission cooling lines can be a PIA project with a automotive lift.
Trying this job without a lift is a punishment I wouldn't wish on my worse enemy.
If your determined to do this come hell or high water this is how I would do it.
I would cut the old line out in sections and toss them out.
I would cut the new line into manageable sections using a quality tubing cutter along one of the straight sections.
I would purchase good quality Parker brand Stainless steel compression unions to reconnect the sections.
Just make sure the unions are accessible with the tools you have available.
These unions will add to the overall length of the line, you will need to measure how much length they add to the line and cut out that much of the steel line so the line will fit as expected.
As far as what you will have to remove with or without cutting the lines depends on the type and quality of tools you own how big your hands are and how determined you are.
If you decide to use the Parker stainless compression unions make sure to use a little antisieze on the threads to prevent damaging the threads.
However my personal feelings aside, changing metal transmission cooling lines can be a PIA project with a automotive lift.
Trying this job without a lift is a punishment I wouldn't wish on my worse enemy.
If your determined to do this come hell or high water this is how I would do it.
I would cut the old line out in sections and toss them out.
I would cut the new line into manageable sections using a quality tubing cutter along one of the straight sections.
I would purchase good quality Parker brand Stainless steel compression unions to reconnect the sections.
Just make sure the unions are accessible with the tools you have available.
These unions will add to the overall length of the line, you will need to measure how much length they add to the line and cut out that much of the steel line so the line will fit as expected.
As far as what you will have to remove with or without cutting the lines depends on the type and quality of tools you own how big your hands are and how determined you are.
If you decide to use the Parker stainless compression unions make sure to use a little antisieze on the threads to prevent damaging the threads.
thank you EaOutlaw for your response. my current 4 liter inlet line is easy to remove without cutting, but the 2.3 liter line is all one piece and i will not be cutting that.
so, in regards to your statement about not cutting, what kind and quality of tools would i need? i am very determined to make this switch, and would say that my hands are normal size.
i have many socket sizes, and adaptors. i also have an electric impact drill that i usualy use to remove wheels and seats. and an electric drill for screws and attaching sockets to. i have various saws and metal line cutters, but i will not be cutting anything.
i could literally take the whole truck and engine apart, i believe, with most of the tools, and books that i have. but none of them explain changing out a transmission line per my initial post request.
so, in regards to your statement about not cutting, what kind and quality of tools would i need? i am very determined to make this switch, and would say that my hands are normal size.
i have many socket sizes, and adaptors. i also have an electric impact drill that i usualy use to remove wheels and seats. and an electric drill for screws and attaching sockets to. i have various saws and metal line cutters, but i will not be cutting anything.
i could literally take the whole truck and engine apart, i believe, with most of the tools, and books that i have. but none of them explain changing out a transmission line per my initial post request.
Transmission lines normally will outlast the truck.
You are right replacing them will not be covered in a service manual that I know of because of this reason.
Since removing your old line is easy, installing the new line should not be that bad.
I would start by removing the fan clutch and fan shroud,then see what parts are preventing the line from going in.
This will have to be done at your discretion, you will have to keep removing parts until you can get the new line in place.
Do not be afraid to bend the line slightly if needed you can always straighten it back out once you get it in place. Just make sure not to kink the line.
You are right replacing them will not be covered in a service manual that I know of because of this reason.
Since removing your old line is easy, installing the new line should not be that bad.
I would start by removing the fan clutch and fan shroud,then see what parts are preventing the line from going in.
This will have to be done at your discretion, you will have to keep removing parts until you can get the new line in place.
Do not be afraid to bend the line slightly if needed you can always straighten it back out once you get it in place. Just make sure not to kink the line.
Actually EaOutlaw i didnt really remove the 4 liter inlet line. the truck came with an auxiliary transmission cooler. for about the same reasons, i removed the cooler. also because i dont tow or do off road driving... and so far, havent had any overheat issues.
so, to keep the oil flow moving, i modified one of the rubber hoses that went to the cooler and connected the two parts of the inlet line with the hose and clamps. the line wasnt removed, just slightly modified. theres an image attached showing that, as modified...
i know though i could easily remove the 4 liter inlet line, especially as it has a break between the transmission and the radiator with that rubber hose attachment.
the 2.3 liter line, is one piece with a good 90° turn in it. putting that line in with that bend will be quite difficult and nothing like what i did with the 4 liter line. especially since im not cutting anything. --without removing or moving any major component. there is an image here as well of that new line as 2.3.
i will see what i can do about just slightly raising the radiator and fan shroud, without disconnecting any hoses. i do not have the special tool for removing the fan clutch. but im guessing i will also hafta lift the truck slightly for proper rotation of the new line to fit it in the small space between the passenger side engine support and steering rack. there is an image here too showing that space, as opening.
i know the line can be bent, slightly, but id rather do the least amount of bending possible.
i havent done it yet, but i think i will write a short query at the 2.3 liter general discussion about just replacing lines.
thank you agian.
so, to keep the oil flow moving, i modified one of the rubber hoses that went to the cooler and connected the two parts of the inlet line with the hose and clamps. the line wasnt removed, just slightly modified. theres an image attached showing that, as modified...
i know though i could easily remove the 4 liter inlet line, especially as it has a break between the transmission and the radiator with that rubber hose attachment.
the 2.3 liter line, is one piece with a good 90° turn in it. putting that line in with that bend will be quite difficult and nothing like what i did with the 4 liter line. especially since im not cutting anything. --without removing or moving any major component. there is an image here as well of that new line as 2.3.
i will see what i can do about just slightly raising the radiator and fan shroud, without disconnecting any hoses. i do not have the special tool for removing the fan clutch. but im guessing i will also hafta lift the truck slightly for proper rotation of the new line to fit it in the small space between the passenger side engine support and steering rack. there is an image here too showing that space, as opening.
i know the line can be bent, slightly, but id rather do the least amount of bending possible.
i havent done it yet, but i think i will write a short query at the 2.3 liter general discussion about just replacing lines.
thank you agian.
This response came in, I am not sure what happened.
so then, I will try replying again here. maybe the issue before was adding attachments. i added two pictures before, so i will just add those to a new album and go without using attachments...
that album is called transmission lines
i didnt mean before that i had removed my 4 liter inlet line. i only slightly modified it, which you can see in the modified picture in that album. but, had i removed the whole line, it would be easy, as that line is broken into two pieces, utilising the auxiliary cooler. but again, i didnt remove the line at all. all i did at the time, was remove the auxiliary cooler and trim a few inches off the feeding lines using a pipe cutting tool. for the most part because as i dont do any towing or off road driving, i figured it wasnt really being used. so, i removed it, and used part of the rubber hose that connected to the cooler to join the two trimmed lines.
and, I have monitored the temperature by touch of the two transmission lines, and they still seem to be what they were, before removing the cooler. the truck doesnt have a thermometer for the lines. all other related guages are at their normal display.
it will be difficult actually, putting in the new 2.3 inlet line, as it is just one piece, and has a good 90 degree angle in it. which you can also see in my 2.3 picture in the transmission lines album. since i will not be cutting this line, i will have to figure some way to get it in the same area the present line is in.
you can also see, in the opening picture there in the same album, the compact space i have to work with. i would rather do the least amount of bending as possible of the line for fitment. most of what seems in the way there, is the engine support and the steering rack. which i do not want to move or remove.
i was thinking of possibly just raising the radiator and fan shroud high enough so that the transmission lines arent disturbed. --at least, the outlet line; and avoid any draining of the radiator. i also do not have the special tool(s) to do anything with the fan clutch, so hopefully the fan wont be too in the way on lifting the radiator and shroud.
i have a friend that said he could do this for me, at a good cheap rate, but i would like to see if i can do it myself.
i dont have any jack stand other than for changing a wheel, and neithr a hoist. but i think the vehicle would need to be lifted some how, at least at the front to get good rotation of the 2.3 line to install.
i ihave also posted a brief question about removing the inlet line, in the 2.3 general discussion section. but no response there yet.
that album is called transmission lines
i didnt mean before that i had removed my 4 liter inlet line. i only slightly modified it, which you can see in the modified picture in that album. but, had i removed the whole line, it would be easy, as that line is broken into two pieces, utilising the auxiliary cooler. but again, i didnt remove the line at all. all i did at the time, was remove the auxiliary cooler and trim a few inches off the feeding lines using a pipe cutting tool. for the most part because as i dont do any towing or off road driving, i figured it wasnt really being used. so, i removed it, and used part of the rubber hose that connected to the cooler to join the two trimmed lines.
and, I have monitored the temperature by touch of the two transmission lines, and they still seem to be what they were, before removing the cooler. the truck doesnt have a thermometer for the lines. all other related guages are at their normal display.
it will be difficult actually, putting in the new 2.3 inlet line, as it is just one piece, and has a good 90 degree angle in it. which you can also see in my 2.3 picture in the transmission lines album. since i will not be cutting this line, i will have to figure some way to get it in the same area the present line is in.
you can also see, in the opening picture there in the same album, the compact space i have to work with. i would rather do the least amount of bending as possible of the line for fitment. most of what seems in the way there, is the engine support and the steering rack. which i do not want to move or remove.
i was thinking of possibly just raising the radiator and fan shroud high enough so that the transmission lines arent disturbed. --at least, the outlet line; and avoid any draining of the radiator. i also do not have the special tool(s) to do anything with the fan clutch, so hopefully the fan wont be too in the way on lifting the radiator and shroud.
i have a friend that said he could do this for me, at a good cheap rate, but i would like to see if i can do it myself.
i dont have any jack stand other than for changing a wheel, and neithr a hoist. but i think the vehicle would need to be lifted some how, at least at the front to get good rotation of the 2.3 line to install.
i ihave also posted a brief question about removing the inlet line, in the 2.3 general discussion section. but no response there yet.
I have not found the pictures you are referring to.
99% of the tools you will need you can get for free from most major automotive parts stores as a loner.
You will have to pay for the tool then get a refund when your done using them.
Jack stands can be picked up from Harbor freight really cheap.
A coolant drain pan also can be picked up from Harbor freight really cheap.
However I really do not see a need to have to drain the cooling system to do this job and you shouldn't have to move the radiator either.
If the rack, fan clutch and fan shroud is in the way of installing your new line that you absolutely have to have, why would you hesitate in removing them?
As I said you will have to be determined to get this job done especially without a Automotive lift.
With a lift you can rotate the line as you are installing the line at a extreme angle to clear obstacles you would have to remove otherwise.
Without a lift, without cutting the line, you do not have the luxury of saying I will not remove this object that is in my way way preventing the very project from getting accomplished.
I think you should tell us the real reason why you want to rig a 2.3 Line in place of the current line.
Are you having problems with your transmission ?
Why are you messing around with adding and removing transmission coolers?
If your truck works as it is, and you cannot afford to do this project because of a lack of money wait until you can afford it.
Trying to force this job to get done without doing it right the first time will only cause you break an expensive part or hurt yourself.
99% of the tools you will need you can get for free from most major automotive parts stores as a loner.
You will have to pay for the tool then get a refund when your done using them.
Jack stands can be picked up from Harbor freight really cheap.
A coolant drain pan also can be picked up from Harbor freight really cheap.
However I really do not see a need to have to drain the cooling system to do this job and you shouldn't have to move the radiator either.
If the rack, fan clutch and fan shroud is in the way of installing your new line that you absolutely have to have, why would you hesitate in removing them?
As I said you will have to be determined to get this job done especially without a Automotive lift.
With a lift you can rotate the line as you are installing the line at a extreme angle to clear obstacles you would have to remove otherwise.
Without a lift, without cutting the line, you do not have the luxury of saying I will not remove this object that is in my way way preventing the very project from getting accomplished.
I think you should tell us the real reason why you want to rig a 2.3 Line in place of the current line.
Are you having problems with your transmission ?
Why are you messing around with adding and removing transmission coolers?
If your truck works as it is, and you cannot afford to do this project because of a lack of money wait until you can afford it.
Trying to force this job to get done without doing it right the first time will only cause you break an expensive part or hurt yourself.
well, my pictures are there in the albums section. i tried finding yours and found them. i 'clicked' your name, EaOutlaw, which opens your profile here. over at the right side of the profile, are small sections. beginning with Mini Statistics, Friends, Albums, and so on... your profile is arranged just like mine. you have one album called Pictures of my Ranger day one to current. i looked at it and saw your many pictures.
i have two albums. transmission lines, and temporary. there are three pictures in the transmission lines album that i have referred to in my posts here. i hope you can find the album better now.
this 'rack' i am referring to, i believe is the rack and pinion steering part of the 'frame' below. it is where the steering gear, front wheels, and wheel steering assemblies are. removing or moving that rack would be an overkill job and, per my vantage point, seems very unnecessary.
the fan clutch and fan are attatched to the motor. and if i needed to slightly raise the radiator, the clutch i dont think would need to be removed. the shroud is attached to the radiator, and i believe could easily clear the fan clutch by slightly raising the radiator with shroud to clear the radiator supports and then tilting the radiator forward while raised and then pushing it back slightly. while doing an air conditioning modification, the condenser is already removed and not in the way there.
but anyway, i dont think ill need to mess with the radiator and surrounding parts. the vehicle i think, once raised maybe two feet in front, would provide adequate space to install the 2.3 line.
just yesterday, i tried to push the line through the small opening while laying under the vehicle, and pushing the short straight piece through. it did actually push through. but for proper alignment with the transmission and radiator connections, would require more space below for rotating. ive seen some cheap things at wal mart that will help in this area. i will have money for that in about a week.
i do already have a drain pan, that i will use once i disconnect the current 4 liter lines
now, the real reason i want to change these lines out, is i guess not a reason at all, and goes back to the likely stupidity of the project in the first place. mostly due to seeing that the auxiliary cooler isnt needed in my particular use of the truck. the temperature of the current lines has not changed since before i removed the cooler. removing the cooler left the intake line in two parts/sections. one coming from the transmission going to the cooler, and another coming from the cooler to connect to the radiator. i have temporarily connected those two ends with one of the rubber hoses that made the initial connection to the cooler.
now, per removal of the cooler, i saw two options. i could buy the 2.3 inlet line/tube and install it. or, i could have my welder friend slightly bend the two current 4 liter tubes, and weld them together, leaving the current lines in place for use once made whole. the weld idea may be simplest. just removing the two pieces, catching the oil, plugging the holes and getting the lines to my friend
though having them welded together, still leaves me with reinstalling them. so i would in the end, need to lift the front of the vehicle about 2 feet to do that.
but yeah, that is the reason, removing the auxiliary cooler and cleaning the 'mess' left with it out. and, when i have something im not using or personally think is not necessary, i do what i can to remove or get rid of it. i have not though simply tossed the cooler. i have done many modifications, and kept all parts that i could, in the event that i ever sell the truck, the new owner may have them for their personal use.
i dont have lack of money. and i am not presently having any operational issues with the truck. i do take great care of it too... it has become my understanding that the transmission coolers presence was for those drivers that tow things and do offroad driving; and i think another part was stop and go traffic. --i do occasionally do the stop and go thing...... not all ford rangers came with external transmission coolers. most with tow packages did. per my vehicle research, i didnt order the tow package. so, it likely came with the cooler due to engine size or as part of a cookie-cut production process.
like, we're making 4 liter rangers. the 4 liter assembly line will be installing auxiliary transmission coolers on all those trucks.
so anyway, i hope you can find the album with the pictures by looking at my profile. you could do that by simply clicking on my name in the thread here. name being, ibmp200, and checking out Albums at the right side.
i have two albums. transmission lines, and temporary. there are three pictures in the transmission lines album that i have referred to in my posts here. i hope you can find the album better now.
this 'rack' i am referring to, i believe is the rack and pinion steering part of the 'frame' below. it is where the steering gear, front wheels, and wheel steering assemblies are. removing or moving that rack would be an overkill job and, per my vantage point, seems very unnecessary.
the fan clutch and fan are attatched to the motor. and if i needed to slightly raise the radiator, the clutch i dont think would need to be removed. the shroud is attached to the radiator, and i believe could easily clear the fan clutch by slightly raising the radiator with shroud to clear the radiator supports and then tilting the radiator forward while raised and then pushing it back slightly. while doing an air conditioning modification, the condenser is already removed and not in the way there.
but anyway, i dont think ill need to mess with the radiator and surrounding parts. the vehicle i think, once raised maybe two feet in front, would provide adequate space to install the 2.3 line.
just yesterday, i tried to push the line through the small opening while laying under the vehicle, and pushing the short straight piece through. it did actually push through. but for proper alignment with the transmission and radiator connections, would require more space below for rotating. ive seen some cheap things at wal mart that will help in this area. i will have money for that in about a week.
i do already have a drain pan, that i will use once i disconnect the current 4 liter lines
now, the real reason i want to change these lines out, is i guess not a reason at all, and goes back to the likely stupidity of the project in the first place. mostly due to seeing that the auxiliary cooler isnt needed in my particular use of the truck. the temperature of the current lines has not changed since before i removed the cooler. removing the cooler left the intake line in two parts/sections. one coming from the transmission going to the cooler, and another coming from the cooler to connect to the radiator. i have temporarily connected those two ends with one of the rubber hoses that made the initial connection to the cooler.
now, per removal of the cooler, i saw two options. i could buy the 2.3 inlet line/tube and install it. or, i could have my welder friend slightly bend the two current 4 liter tubes, and weld them together, leaving the current lines in place for use once made whole. the weld idea may be simplest. just removing the two pieces, catching the oil, plugging the holes and getting the lines to my friend
though having them welded together, still leaves me with reinstalling them. so i would in the end, need to lift the front of the vehicle about 2 feet to do that.
but yeah, that is the reason, removing the auxiliary cooler and cleaning the 'mess' left with it out. and, when i have something im not using or personally think is not necessary, i do what i can to remove or get rid of it. i have not though simply tossed the cooler. i have done many modifications, and kept all parts that i could, in the event that i ever sell the truck, the new owner may have them for their personal use.
i dont have lack of money. and i am not presently having any operational issues with the truck. i do take great care of it too... it has become my understanding that the transmission coolers presence was for those drivers that tow things and do offroad driving; and i think another part was stop and go traffic. --i do occasionally do the stop and go thing...... not all ford rangers came with external transmission coolers. most with tow packages did. per my vehicle research, i didnt order the tow package. so, it likely came with the cooler due to engine size or as part of a cookie-cut production process.
like, we're making 4 liter rangers. the 4 liter assembly line will be installing auxiliary transmission coolers on all those trucks.
so anyway, i hope you can find the album with the pictures by looking at my profile. you could do that by simply clicking on my name in the thread here. name being, ibmp200, and checking out Albums at the right side.
Ok after reading your post, if I am getting this right. You simply want to remove the transmission cooler in front of the radiator.
Fine it is your truck your project I have no problem with it.
Lifting- tilting a radiator while it is still attached to the cooling system hoses is asking for trouble, but again it is your truck your project have at it.
You seem to have this thought out and spent more time fussing over this project then you would have spent removing the rack, the fan shroud and fan clutch.
Again it's your truck.
I am not sure what else I or anyone else can do for you.
I looked at your pictures Yet I am at a loss on how I can help?
Do not get me wrong, I want to help yet, the way you want to do things is not the way I was trained nor is it the way I do things.
Not that there is anything wrong with what your doing if you can get away with what you want to do great.
I personally would remove anything that was in the way and be done with it.
Fine it is your truck your project I have no problem with it.
Lifting- tilting a radiator while it is still attached to the cooling system hoses is asking for trouble, but again it is your truck your project have at it.
You seem to have this thought out and spent more time fussing over this project then you would have spent removing the rack, the fan shroud and fan clutch.
Again it's your truck.
I am not sure what else I or anyone else can do for you.
I looked at your pictures Yet I am at a loss on how I can help?
Do not get me wrong, I want to help yet, the way you want to do things is not the way I was trained nor is it the way I do things.
Not that there is anything wrong with what your doing if you can get away with what you want to do great.
I personally would remove anything that was in the way and be done with it.
i have long since removed the auxilary cooler. what im presently wanting to do is switch the 4 liter line for the 2.3 line. i think it was last fall that i removed the cooler...
i really dont think i will need to do any moving of the radiator. and, besides, when i removed the condenser from in front of the radiator; i did have to tilt that forward toward the fan and the condenser came out very easily. tilting it would have very slightly 'moved' the top and bottom coolant hoses and barely moving the transmission lines, but i never had a leak in any of them yet.
then removing the rack, or whatever its called; that the steering gears is attached to, as well as the wheels themselves, would be more trouble than its worth and i dont think necessary. besides, the engine support, in part, is resting or attached to this rack thing. im not gonna disturb the engine in any way. and neither am i gonna bother with borrowing, renting or buying a holder thing to hold the engine to raise it after its detached. totally unnecessary.
since i was able to push the 2.3 line through the small opening in that picture from behind the radiator; it seems that all thats needed next here is to raise the front of the vehicle about a foot and a half. there is a cheap tool at wal mart that will do that just fine.
but again, my approach to this is less than amateur, as to why i am at this forum seeking advice. you write you have training. so, if this truck was in your shop, how would you replace the 4 liter transmission inlet line with a 2.3 liter inlet line?? --in the event the owner insisted on its replacement in spite of it not being necessary or the correct part. what would you do, start to end to change them over?
it would be my amateur guess here that i just need to lift the front slightly. disconnect the line. catch the oil. plug the holes in the tranmission and radiator. replace the line and reconnect. refill the transmission oil, and start the vehicle to recirculate the oil, while moving through each gear. and done. --when i removed the cooler, i did the same thing; refilling the oil and going through each gear.
i have a 2007 ranger two volume ford workshop manual (book set) that the dealerships used to use before they went digital. it is very detailed and shows literally how to disassemble and reassemble the engine, transmission, and many other things. way more detail than an autozone haynes/chilton manual. i refer to that set often. regarding the tranmission lines, all it shows is how to remove the cooler and how to address a leak where the lines connect to the radiator. not how to physically install the lines, per what you said about them lasting the life of the truck. when it shows how to disassemble the transmission, there is no detail about how to remove the lines. many things in those books it seems, are common knowledge to the trained technicians referring to the resource. and why such things are not included in the details.
i really dont think i will need to do any moving of the radiator. and, besides, when i removed the condenser from in front of the radiator; i did have to tilt that forward toward the fan and the condenser came out very easily. tilting it would have very slightly 'moved' the top and bottom coolant hoses and barely moving the transmission lines, but i never had a leak in any of them yet.
then removing the rack, or whatever its called; that the steering gears is attached to, as well as the wheels themselves, would be more trouble than its worth and i dont think necessary. besides, the engine support, in part, is resting or attached to this rack thing. im not gonna disturb the engine in any way. and neither am i gonna bother with borrowing, renting or buying a holder thing to hold the engine to raise it after its detached. totally unnecessary.
since i was able to push the 2.3 line through the small opening in that picture from behind the radiator; it seems that all thats needed next here is to raise the front of the vehicle about a foot and a half. there is a cheap tool at wal mart that will do that just fine.
but again, my approach to this is less than amateur, as to why i am at this forum seeking advice. you write you have training. so, if this truck was in your shop, how would you replace the 4 liter transmission inlet line with a 2.3 liter inlet line?? --in the event the owner insisted on its replacement in spite of it not being necessary or the correct part. what would you do, start to end to change them over?
it would be my amateur guess here that i just need to lift the front slightly. disconnect the line. catch the oil. plug the holes in the tranmission and radiator. replace the line and reconnect. refill the transmission oil, and start the vehicle to recirculate the oil, while moving through each gear. and done. --when i removed the cooler, i did the same thing; refilling the oil and going through each gear.
i have a 2007 ranger two volume ford workshop manual (book set) that the dealerships used to use before they went digital. it is very detailed and shows literally how to disassemble and reassemble the engine, transmission, and many other things. way more detail than an autozone haynes/chilton manual. i refer to that set often. regarding the tranmission lines, all it shows is how to remove the cooler and how to address a leak where the lines connect to the radiator. not how to physically install the lines, per what you said about them lasting the life of the truck. when it shows how to disassemble the transmission, there is no detail about how to remove the lines. many things in those books it seems, are common knowledge to the trained technicians referring to the resource. and why such things are not included in the details.
In a shop environment with access to a lift and air tools, shop tools etc, a job like this shouldn't take more than two hours max while drinking coffee.
I really do not know what would be involved until I had the truck up in the air to see what needed to be removed.
If the engine needs to be raised in a shop environment whatever tool I needed would be at my disposal.
If I needed to remove the rack and fan clutch etc I would simply remove it unless I thought it was faster and easier to tilt it or work around it like you suggest.
Pretty much I cannot give you a step by step procedure because I am not there with your truck.
I will say you are right the truck will need to be in the air, I am betting you will need to raise the whole truck not just the front.
With the truck raised in the air, the line may be able to get snaked into place with minimal removal of parts.
The higher the truck is the more wiggle room you will have.
You will have to use your discretion while doing this job.
I suggested the things I have based on what you are doing, also to save you from the problems you may encounter trying to do the job unprepared.
I really do not know what would be involved until I had the truck up in the air to see what needed to be removed.
If the engine needs to be raised in a shop environment whatever tool I needed would be at my disposal.
If I needed to remove the rack and fan clutch etc I would simply remove it unless I thought it was faster and easier to tilt it or work around it like you suggest.
Pretty much I cannot give you a step by step procedure because I am not there with your truck.
I will say you are right the truck will need to be in the air, I am betting you will need to raise the whole truck not just the front.
With the truck raised in the air, the line may be able to get snaked into place with minimal removal of parts.
The higher the truck is the more wiggle room you will have.
You will have to use your discretion while doing this job.
I suggested the things I have based on what you are doing, also to save you from the problems you may encounter trying to do the job unprepared.
alright. thank you. i think my shop friend warren would say similar things as you. i have talked to him a few months ago about helping me with this. i just might go to him, if i still have difficulty after raising the front. he had even told me to not remove the auxiliary cooler. yet, its been done for some time now.
i think i will just buy the ramp thing i saw a wal mart, and some chocks. drive onto it to raise the front end. use the parking brake and chocks at the back end. and work on trying to push the line through the opening for length and space checking.
at present, since it wasnt raised; after pushing it through the opening, it seemed to get part way stuck on the oil pan at the bottom of the engine.
but anyway, i appreciate your input to me here eaoutlaw. i will add pictures of the finished job to my albums for reference, as it seems to take forever for the moderators to allow posts with attached images
i think i will just buy the ramp thing i saw a wal mart, and some chocks. drive onto it to raise the front end. use the parking brake and chocks at the back end. and work on trying to push the line through the opening for length and space checking.
at present, since it wasnt raised; after pushing it through the opening, it seemed to get part way stuck on the oil pan at the bottom of the engine.
but anyway, i appreciate your input to me here eaoutlaw. i will add pictures of the finished job to my albums for reference, as it seems to take forever for the moderators to allow posts with attached images
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