Well idk which i header i should get. I could get:
JBA $350
OBX $300
Hedman w/ y pipe $263

What do guys think? any experience with Hedman or OBX?

 

idk but it will sound sweet what ever you decide to go with!

 

which gives the better power numbers???

 

I'd spend the money on the good stuff. JBA for me.

 

I've had the JBA's for about 3 years with no issues. I checked out the OBX headers on ebay because I haven't heard of them before and they looked just about identical to the JBA's. I would still go with JBA though.

 

what all is envolved w/ installing new headers??? any tuning or whats the deal? you do have to remove the motor, right?

 

The install is fairly straightforward. The motor does not need to be removed. It is a good idea to remove the inner fenders and splash guards to make the install easier. Other than that it is just a matter of unbolting the old with plenty of penetrating lube and bolting in the new. Not too bad, maybe a five hour job or so. No tuning is required either, although you can mention that you have headers if you purchase a programmer down the road.

 

I'm starting to work on my 4.0 again. I am thinking hard about getting a set of Mac longtubes for the 4.0 mustang and seeing if it fits. My y-pipe is toast anyway so I will have to deal with that regardless.

 

Whats wrong with the 185.00 Pacesetters? I am one click away from getting a set from Summit.

 

ive heard nothing but good things about the jba's, the dyno sheet on there website shows a 20 hp jump, idk how true that is but im curious about the others as well

 

Have you ever looked inside a stock manifold?? I totally believe it.

 

Nooooooooo Pacesetter is junk, don't do it. Everything they make is crap.

 

Yep...it seems everything they make turns to rust very quickly.

 

Dont do it, they wont fit. Trust me, I`ve searched and searched all the different makes of long tubes for the 4.0 mustang. The mustangs engine sits lower than ours and their frame is wider. The longtubes practically sweep straight back. They`ll hit the firewall. Other designs not only sweep back, but pass between the frame and oil filter. I`ll see if I can find some links to the pics I found.

Heres the macs...http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/c...0Mustang%20V6/
pacesetters...http://mustangcollective.com/showthr...ght=pacesetter

There`s a couple more like Kooks and Stainless works.

 

i got the headman headers love em

 

From a power and tuning perspective..

Long tube headers will almost always be better for power across the board.
Which ever version you choose try to get a primary pipe size thats about 1/8" larger diameter than the exhaust port. Bigger than that is a waste and can hurt low end TQ.

Tuning. There is a 02 sensor transfer delay setting in the tune. So if your headers 02 sensor port is more than about 2" away from the stock location. You *ought to* have the tune adjusted. You don't have to do this.. but you should because it effects the computers fuel commands.

btw guys.. I'm all about value when it comes to modding a stock or nearly stock vehicle. It's my opinion that on a (stock) short stroke motor like these 4.0L's a guy would be better served by just removing the stock manifolds, using a die grinder (or dremel tool) and cleaning up the bumps inside. Then get a set of high flow cats with stock or slightly larger mid pipe sizing. (after cat exhaust is a given).
This way you'll be legal, will get 85% the power increase, and will be a better bang for the buck.

Headers are "cool" and all. But.. when it comes to pressure within a *system* you can't just change one part and expect great changes. You really need to consider the whole system and what your goal is.

Just my two cents..
Regards, Rich

 

Get the JBAs, mine fit perfect, dont leak and are the best out there for the 4.0L.

 

Is it possible a body lift will allow it to clear the firewall? If there's a 50/50 chance I will probably try and see what happens. I can always sell them if it doesn;t work.

With the bosy lift, and the fact that I removed my spare tire carrier, I think i can fit the exhaust up high. In the bed area I can darn near put it above the frame.

 

These are my numbers from the dyno with JBA headers, bama tune, flowmaster 40, and CAI.... After that run I came home and got an adjutment on my tune to get the correct A/F......I love the JBA's....

 

Nice numbers Jeremy. i want to say my dynojet number all stock was 171 and about 179 with the UD crank pulley. That was a manual which would read higher than an automatic.

 

i'd buy the jba headers but are overpriced imo for what they are thats why i am considering other options including getting another set of manifolds to modify as described above

 

will that really work? i don't know if i could see that adding almost as much power as headers... basically does anyone have proof?

 

To late! I ordered them today. I have some Eastwood manifold coating that works very good to put on them before I install them.

 

so even though our rangers are rated at like 205 hp stock and w/e on torque, they only read like 180 whp???

 

207 is at the flywheel. You lose power going through the drivetrain. You have to remember it takes power to turn everything. Also an auto will soak up more power than a manual tranny.