I am old school, I remember keeping a ceramic resistor for Chry/Dodge in glove box and Allen wrench and ohms meter for Chev's handy. I've turned enough wenches to have Popeye forearms. I do not own a multi $K computer reader for codes and hear that the cheapies Auto Parts places use are not complete enough. Since I do not want to be a "parts replacer" till the problem disappears, So I ask here ...

2000 Ranger XLT 4.0 OHV 4x4 std tran

Already replaced do to "no service EVER" @ 160k miles. Bought it this way.
... fuel filter (my God you should have seen the dirt that came out)
... Oil sending unit (had "check gauges" light/gauge on)
... PS pump (someone put PS fluid not F-ATF)
... antifreeze and oil change
... rear springs

Hesitation/misses happens when ...
Not first gear (granny)-full RPM range
2nd gear - only very top of RPM range
3rd gear - top 1k to 1.5k of RPM range
4th gear - top 2k+RPM, or especially under load, like mashing the gas while tooling along at 45 to 55 mph.
OD - does it at any speed or RPM, runs fine when not asking for power, mash the gas just a tad too much and it misses/hesitates quite rough.

I have not cleaned the engine bay yet due to weather being cold, and not able to hook hose up to warm water. Has Valve cover leaks and "maybe" rear seal. Have new VC gaskets, Spark plugs ready and PCV valve to put in, (as of today, and do not want to install till engine bay is cleaned).

So ..... Do I get a computer readout of any and all codes first, or get the cleaning and parts I have done? Unless someone has a definitive "It's This-Do this" answer.

TY for your time.
Eric

 

The stuff you have to put in sounds like a good start.

 

Take it to an autoparts store and get the codes read or get a code reader for yourself., also rent a fuel pressure tester.I suspect something in the fuel system.

 

PCV in ,, and no change, grrrr. trying for codes at a Parts store tomorrow. Does everyone agree that the small unit they use will give me all the complete codes? Or should I go to a shop with the bigger unit (which might cost me)?

Also, after reading the net, it seems a Mass Airflow Sensor cleaning would be advisable. I'll be using a spray MAS Cleaner, not brake or carb cleaner.

 

They will be able to give you all the codes. I still would do a fuel pressure test too.

 

Would a system like this be good .... ? And what's a good fuel pressure tester?

OBDCOM Diagnostic Systems for ALL vehicles

 

Thats a very good one because you can data log on your laptop.

This one is more portable and does data readouts.
Autel/AutoLink scan tool (AULAL419) | Code Reader | AutoZone.com

Actron fuel pressure tester. You can also rent one.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=84174_0_0_

 

MAS/MAF ? well, cleaned it and the truck hesitates "way" less. just a small one, probably due to original plugs with 160k mi. YES this was dirty.

I also will receive the OBDCOM program and hookup prob Tue or Wed. And we'll see what we'll see.
Also still need to do a fuel pressure test.

 

Do the plugs and wires if they are factory the service interval in the book says 100000 but thats an extreme. Also ford redesigned the plugs a few years ago to give better spark i did mine at 120000 and it runs great!

 

OBDCOM program says no current or stored codes.
Does anyone have what all the sensors normal readings should be?

Waiting for slightly warmer weather to wash the engine bay, at that time will do spark plugs and wires, maybe valve cover gaskets. and check the fuel pressure.
Still need the oil filter housing gasket. (My CAT on the drivers side is smellin like cooked oil after driving a bit)

 

2.3 1994 ranger with hesitation, not in 1st or 2nd gear, only in 3rd, 4th and 5th. Began after transmission replaced and plugs. Got worse, even after plugs, wires, fuel filter and pump, converter, muffler, two coils, three complete diagnostics eventually averaging 140-180 compression #3&4 strongest. Scoping valves for spring or others problems, leak down under10%, fuel flow & pressure fine, amf sensor giving computer a high elevation read, fuel mix rich at 2000 rpm's with slight load. Strong in first and second gear. Starts sputtering into 3rd & 4th. Acts like it if flooding out, by creating similar load as slower speed by riding brakes till sputtering begins, and a strong smell of unburned fuel.

Timing belt off or stretched by 6% and crank shaft pulley hub maybe 1% or 1/16" play.

Big question...
Just did a new pulley hub and timing belt, what next? Also puta new egr valve in. ...Computer next? Another sensor? What? Everything else checks out mechanically sound including transmission which is standard 5 speed. 145,000 miles, no leaks, no blue smoke or oil loss. Well taken care of.

Help!

 

And I shall ask, is the check engine light on. Did you clean the mass air flow sensor with maf cleaner and did you replace the O-2 sensor or check for vacuum leaks.

Stop throwing parts at it, you'll go broke before you fix it.

 

Everything original & over 20 years old. I believe So far everything except egr was needed maintenance. No leaks with three diagnostics and two other skilled mechanics' evaluation. O2 sensor? Can do.

 

No check engine light ever. Amf sensor cleaned.